Homebrew Cable Operated Axle Lock
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
As promised here are some pictures of my homebrew Cable Operated Front Axle Lock. Posi-Locs go for around $200. I made this one for $40 and a couple hours of my time. Items needed are as follows:
1.) Locking Hand Throttle Switch and cable acquired at the local Napa.
2.) 1" long by 1/2" around spring acquired at the local Ace Hardware.
3.) Screw in cable stop acquired at the local bike shop.
4.) Cable end clamp acquired at the local Ace Hardware.
I mounted the switch onto the side of my center console and ran the cable through the gromet in the firewall where the OEM throttle cable goes through. The cable is pretty rigid and cannot be bent or it will kink and not work. Routed the cable straight down to the front axle diff. and across to the axle disconnect. zip tied in several locations to keep it out of moving parts and away from hot parts. You will have to remove the vacuum hoses from your axle disco, plug them and ziptie them up and out of the way. You will need to drill a hole in the disco housing and screw your cable end stop into the hole. You will need to drill a hole through the shift fork in the axle disconnect. thread the cable through the hole in the disconnect housing, then thread it through the spring and then through the shift fork. The spring is there to move the shift fork back over to the unlocked position when you are done wheeling. After you thread the cable through the shift fork you need to hold the shift fork to where it is in the center of it's range of movement and tightly install the cable end clamp and cut off the cable so you only have about a half inch to curl around the clamp. I can remove my disco housing and take a picture of the guts inside if you guys would like to see how the cable is routed through the spring, fork and clamp, but, it's a PITA and a mess to remove it. It is a pretty simple design so, I figured I'd be able to just walk you through it in this write up. When you're ready to go 4wheeling, shift into 4HI or 4LO then put the jeep in Drive or Reverse and slowly roll the Jeep as you pull the lever. As soon as you see your 4x4 light come on, turn and lock the lever. Now, you're ready to go wheeling.
1.) Locking Hand Throttle Switch and cable acquired at the local Napa.
2.) 1" long by 1/2" around spring acquired at the local Ace Hardware.
3.) Screw in cable stop acquired at the local bike shop.
4.) Cable end clamp acquired at the local Ace Hardware.
I mounted the switch onto the side of my center console and ran the cable through the gromet in the firewall where the OEM throttle cable goes through. The cable is pretty rigid and cannot be bent or it will kink and not work. Routed the cable straight down to the front axle diff. and across to the axle disconnect. zip tied in several locations to keep it out of moving parts and away from hot parts. You will have to remove the vacuum hoses from your axle disco, plug them and ziptie them up and out of the way. You will need to drill a hole in the disco housing and screw your cable end stop into the hole. You will need to drill a hole through the shift fork in the axle disconnect. thread the cable through the hole in the disconnect housing, then thread it through the spring and then through the shift fork. The spring is there to move the shift fork back over to the unlocked position when you are done wheeling. After you thread the cable through the shift fork you need to hold the shift fork to where it is in the center of it's range of movement and tightly install the cable end clamp and cut off the cable so you only have about a half inch to curl around the clamp. I can remove my disco housing and take a picture of the guts inside if you guys would like to see how the cable is routed through the spring, fork and clamp, but, it's a PITA and a mess to remove it. It is a pretty simple design so, I figured I'd be able to just walk you through it in this write up. When you're ready to go 4wheeling, shift into 4HI or 4LO then put the jeep in Drive or Reverse and slowly roll the Jeep as you pull the lever. As soon as you see your 4x4 light come on, turn and lock the lever. Now, you're ready to go wheeling.
Last edited by BuckB91XJ; Feb 7, 2009 at 12:15 AM.
::CF Administrator::
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 16
From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
nice but we need bigger pics..THose pics are to small to place it in the writeups sections. Post the pics on photobucket or something so we can move it on over..
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
This is a hand/cable operated axle connect/disconnect to take the place of the junky OEM vacuum axle disconnect. I was too much of a tight wad to buy a Posi-Lock so, I made my own for much less $$$$.
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I am going to do this to my jeep and was wondering if you might send me some bigger pics as well. They get a little distoreted when I enlarge them. you can send them to ss-aaa@live.com thanks.
I would love to see some pics too please. looking to do this in the next few days. jacques.rabe@lemcon.com
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Dude, I posted this thread like 3 years ago. My cable operated axle disco finally broke on me whilw wheeling one day. I picked up a 1 piece long side axle shaft out of a 95 XJ D30. Then I ended up. Buying a whole HP D30 axle out of a 94 XJ so I had an axle housing that was made for 1 piece axle shaft complete with the proper seals so my gear oil didn't leak out everywhere like the older housing did with the newer 1 piece axle shaft. The 94 XJ HP D30 axle housing was the starting point for my "DIY Cheap Super 30" thread.


