When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I got one last black Friday to use when I do my leaf springs. It is very powerful, but it continues to spin after you release the trigger. There's a name for that but I can't think of it.
Thanks!
The guy with the craftsman contacted me with a pic of the one he is selling. The manual says it is only 200 ft/lbs, which does not seem hefty enough for this bolt. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/49...15-116020.html
I got one last black Friday to use when I do my leaf springs. It is very powerful, but it continues to spin after you release the trigger. There's a name for that but I can't think of it.
Looks like the 20% coupon these days is no good on the Bauer line. Might have to put this off until a Black Friday sale or similar.
Just a thought, but before buying or renting equipment and driving all over the place, you might think about taking it to a machine shop and letting them have a go at it.
Just a thought, but before buying or renting equipment and driving all over the place, you might think about taking it to a machine shop and letting them have a go at it.
Thought about that. Might ask at Knoxville Driveline (featured on Bleepin' Jeep recently) they are really close to me.
Very cool! Thank you! I should have that in an email or something and overlooked it.
I went to Knoxville Driveline today and they gave me a very fair assessment, plus some tips so I can keep trying before completely giving up and bringing it back in. $75 minimum shop fee, and he noticed the pin is not actually a roll pin so would probably need to be drilled out. Gave me some tips like heating up the hub and such.
Going with this deal from Northern Tool though. The HF literature lists their driver at 300 ft/lbs (1000 and change breaking tq?), Craftsman lists theirs at 350 ft/lbs
Having it shipped to store near me is no charge. Tax brings the total to $87.39, and it has a 1 year warranty (not sure how good a Craftsman warranty is these days anyway).
Keycode is 271577, from the Honey discount finder.
When I heat that hub up, is there any disadvantage or danger from going straight to MAPP gas, rather than starting with a propane torch? Besides minor expense of MAPP being under $20/bottle vs propane as under $5 per bottle.
I got one last black Friday to use when I do my leaf springs. It is very powerful, but it continues to spin after you release the trigger. There's a name for that but I can't think of it.
Just saw something on YouTube, the brushed motors don't have braking action but the brushless do. Not sure how accurate the information was.
Just wore out a Harbor Freight el cheapo rotary tool grinding those pins back to about half the protrusion length each side. I think I had this thing longer than the return period anyway. The collets don't tighten very well and wore out the smallest one.
Wore out a rat tail file too, by running it in my Black & Decker cordless home gamer drill. That operation didn't seem to dent anything.
Next step is look for a carbide burr of the appropriate shape and size and try to grind it out clear of the threads that way.
Just wore out a Harbor Freight el cheapo rotary tool grinding those pins back to about half the protrusion length each side. I think I had this thing longer than the return period anyway. The collets don't tighten very well and wore out the smallest one.
Wore out a rat tail file too, by running it in my Black & Decker cordless home gamer drill. That operation didn't seem to dent anything.
Next step is look for a carbide burr of the appropriate shape and size and try to grind it out clear of the threads that way.
It's probably hardened steel which will destroy anything but a grinder or EDM milling machine. Anything harder than about 60 Rockwell C will wipe out a file in about 2 strokes. Do you have access to a hydraulic bearing press?
It's probably hardened steel which will destroy anything but a grinder or EDM milling machine. Anything harder than about 60 Rockwell C will wipe out a file in about 2 strokes. Do you have access to a hydraulic bearing press?
Ah, thank you. I ended up breaking two of my finest Chinesium HF Titanium drill bits before surrendering yesterday. No, I don't have access to a press but did try using a C-clamp, couldn't get enough purchase to get it to move. Wouldn't move with a punch and small sledge either.
The angle grinder coupon posted by BruceB is good through the end of the month and is better than a 20% off coupon too.
Success! Ground off those "pin" ends with 24 grit 4 1/2" grinding disk and the $12 angle grinder suggested by BruceB.
Had to run the bolt in a bit to get it clear of the hub studs, and still nicked a stud a little.
Extracted the 7" long heavy 5/8"x11 bolt with Craftsman 8 amp corded impact. BTW, the bag that comes with those from Northern Tool fits the impact, a set of cheap long HF impact sockets on the holder, and the angle grinder with a place to store its handle and wrench. Plus a pocket to hold the documentation inside, and little pockets outside that I don't have anything for yet.
There was not a bolt in the hub, the bottom 2" is threaded.
The upper 2", where it is flared out, apparently collected water and caused that middle section of the bolt to corrode badly. By the time I got the bolt out it was bent too. All the threads were pretty rusty even after all the PB Blaster. I had little mountains of rust under the setup every time I got that bolt to move over the past weeks. Inside the hub is not all that pitted. The mess of rust I got out of there is probably all from that bolt.
Ground off pin end. The other ground off pin end. Bolt, washer, nut.
All of this stuff is getting replaced with 316 Stainless Steel. Where the nut and washer were on the factory setup, replacing that with a jamb nut (just because it is thinner), a stainless Nordlock washer pair, a flat stainless washer, and a neoprene washer. You can get a 316 sealing washer with neoprene, but I am going 2 different pieces. Another 316 washer between the bolt head and the frame. Head end of the bolt will not get any gaskets in case any water sneaks in and needs to escape.
Will apply nickel antiseize to the bolt where it contacts the hub threading and the nuts.
Up top, the hub cavity is going to get filled with NAPA Sil-glyde, a neoprene washer, a 316 washer, a 316 nut, and a 316 jamb nut on top of that. I suspect that pin in the bolt was some safety crap just in case the hub unthreaded while on the road. A jamb nut setup should serve the same purpose and allow me to adjust the hub height, since the offset on my spare is different than that of my regular wheels.
When I get this thing back on the roof, it is going up front because wrangling a tire off should be easier standing on a door sill, rather than trying to stand on the bumper.
Stainless is soft, careful not to snap the bolt or strip it.... With all the preventive stuff your using to avoid a repeat of a rusted bolt, and the fact it is carrying a tire, I would suggest a hardened bolt and nut setup instead. Just my opinion...hope it helps..
