I am having electrical problems in my 98 cherokee after I had the dash pulled to replace the heater core. Immediately after the dash was pulled, the gauges, turn signal, interior lights, and switches did not work. It was really weird to the point where when I tried to turn on my overhead light, the back windshield wiper would turn on. I sent it to the shop and they ended up replacing the headlight switch and the #6 fuse in my kick panel fuse box.

Now most everything works except the lights for the gear selectors. Also they put in a 10amp fuse when the diagrams say it should be a 5 amp fuse. When I put in a 5 amp fuse, the headlight switch starts doing weird things. When I turn on the head lights, the doors will unlock and lock and then the rear wiper will cycle once.

Can anyone advise me on where I should start looking? And will it be ok to run a 10 amp fuse when the manuals say it should be a 5 amp?

 

Until someone smarter comes along....The fuse size doesn't matter unless something shorts and tries to fry, and an over sized fuse lets it. In other words, 5 or 40, there is no difference unless there is a problem. Then the problem becomes, it didn't blow when it should have. (go with the proper rating).

A rule of thumb, if it's goofy, suspect grounds! If a component can't ground where it's suppose to, sometimes it will find a ground "back feeding" through something else. (maybe making that come on)

Linked at the top in my sig is Cruisers "Mostly Renix" tips. Yours may well be pretty different, but maybe tip #18 here will get you on the right path>

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
　
Revised 11-29-2011

Attached Thumbnails

 

Connector C201, the giant connector under the dash, held together with a bolt, may be at fault here. I think all those circuits go through this connector.


I've read several accounts of people doing their heater core/evaporator change, and somehow not get that connector put back together properly.


You may want to get at this connector and see if it's assembled properly and is secure.


Do not use a 10 amp fuse in a 5 amp circuit. You will cause the wires in the circuit to melt, or catch fire.

 

C201: