High rev shifts
01-05-2018, 11:32 PM
#18
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Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
My 1997 grand Cherokee Laredo is having issues too, a few months ago I was driving normally then all of a suden iT was like I was driving normally but it seemed like it was in a lower gear or had the breaks on I hit the brakes hard it it made a loud clink sound and went back to normal but now some days it takes a long time to shift gears (sometimes it gets to 2000-3000 rpm before it will change) and today it wouldn't change until it hit 3000 rpm and I took my foot off the gas petal could this also be a tps issue? Or am I looking at a new transmission? On a side note after having the trailing arm bushes all replaced my transfer case gear shift is now sitting in the neutral position however the actual transfer case is in AWD and when it's in LWD it's actually in neutral I'm at a loss so far have spent $3400 on this thing and am at my wits end please help some times when you start it If you put it in reverse or drive only for a minute then back to park it revs up at 1500 rpm then sits at 500 rpm at idle other days when you start it and try to drive off it will splatter like it's out of fuel but if you take your foot off the acclerator and then reapply it it's fine could this be the TPS?
01-06-2018, 12:08 AM
#19
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Cherieb77.... It's possible you could have a couple different things going on.
First thing to do, because it doesn't cost anything except a little of your time. I would check your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve).
Here's a link to what it is...and if you have the I6 4.0 in yours, it would be very similar, if not the same..... try that, it's easy to do, and then test and report back the results. If that puppy is dirty, it can easily throw a fit causing problems with idle. As for the TPS, I would have it back probe tested before spending money on a part that you don't know is actually confirmed as faulty.
There could be other things to test as previously mentioned in this thread such as the TCU, but the IAC is a common issue and very easy to do yourself.
First thing to do, because it doesn't cost anything except a little of your time. I would check your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve).
Here's a link to what it is...and if you have the I6 4.0 in yours, it would be very similar, if not the same..... try that, it's easy to do, and then test and report back the results. If that puppy is dirty, it can easily throw a fit causing problems with idle. As for the TPS, I would have it back probe tested before spending money on a part that you don't know is actually confirmed as faulty.
There could be other things to test as previously mentioned in this thread such as the TCU, but the IAC is a common issue and very easy to do yourself.
Last edited by RocketMouse; 01-06-2018 at 12:13 AM.
01-06-2018, 09:04 PM
#21
CF Veteran
they all have to visit the "naughty corner" on a seemingly regular basis... after all, they are Jeeps...and as I've come to learn, are quite needy children... lol.
Let us know what happens with your testing.
01-06-2018, 11:02 PM
#22
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Hi rocketmouse
we cleaned the iac like suggested idles a little better but still sitting at 500 rpm at idle
my husband mentioned that this only started after having the radiator replaced a few mths ago there's a rubber hose running from the radiator that seems quite long and is almost flat in one spot he's also got under the jeep and said that there is a lot of trans fluid on the braided metal lines coming from the radiator could a slow leak somewhere be creating the jeep not to up shift until it gets to 3000 rpm and I take my foot off the gas
ive also noticed after thinking on it over night that it only seems to be an issue when the car has fully warmed up and is hot as when I drive off from a cold start it doesn't do it nearly as much.
the trans fluid has a slight red tinge to it but is kinda more like a darker rust colour
would doing a complete flush flush and change of trans fluid be an idea
I don't really know what else to do other then to take it to a tranny place and get them to fix what ever the issue is
thanks in advance ��
we cleaned the iac like suggested idles a little better but still sitting at 500 rpm at idle
my husband mentioned that this only started after having the radiator replaced a few mths ago there's a rubber hose running from the radiator that seems quite long and is almost flat in one spot he's also got under the jeep and said that there is a lot of trans fluid on the braided metal lines coming from the radiator could a slow leak somewhere be creating the jeep not to up shift until it gets to 3000 rpm and I take my foot off the gas
ive also noticed after thinking on it over night that it only seems to be an issue when the car has fully warmed up and is hot as when I drive off from a cold start it doesn't do it nearly as much.
the trans fluid has a slight red tinge to it but is kinda more like a darker rust colour
would doing a complete flush flush and change of trans fluid be an idea
I don't really know what else to do other then to take it to a tranny place and get them to fix what ever the issue is
thanks in advance ��
01-07-2018, 04:33 AM
#23
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Update
after cleaning the iac and cleaning all the crap out from under the car to see of any possible trans leaks still no joy in Thisbe issue being fixed
i took it for a drive down the road but the gears still won't change unless I put the revs right up to 3000 rpm and take my foot off the gas
coukd it be the to cable? It seems to have a little play in it but not much I'm at a loss please help me what else could it be should I adjust the to cable? Or just take it to a transmission mechanic
can I manually change the gears from 1,2,3 and the drive as it seems to down shift fine juts not upshift
after cleaning the iac and cleaning all the crap out from under the car to see of any possible trans leaks still no joy in Thisbe issue being fixed
i took it for a drive down the road but the gears still won't change unless I put the revs right up to 3000 rpm and take my foot off the gas
coukd it be the to cable? It seems to have a little play in it but not much I'm at a loss please help me what else could it be should I adjust the to cable? Or just take it to a transmission mechanic
can I manually change the gears from 1,2,3 and the drive as it seems to down shift fine juts not upshift
01-07-2018, 11:48 AM
#24
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Year: 2000
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You're lucky you haven't been jumped for posting in a seven year old thread !!
"They" can't say that you didn't search.
. Usually best to just start a new thread.
Have you adjusted the TV cable and cleaned IAC , Maybe even throttle body ?
Fluid level good? I have no opinion on fluid change.
Just do/check everything in this thread and other you posted in.
"They" can't say that you didn't search.
. Usually best to just start a new thread.Have you adjusted the TV cable and cleaned IAC , Maybe even throttle body ?
Fluid level good? I have no opinion on fluid change.
Just do/check everything in this thread and other you posted in.
01-07-2018, 02:42 PM
#25
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Hi thanks for your advice yes I've check ed the fluid level and it seems ok I've checked it a few times after running it and from warm up in the drive way all on flat surfaces at running temp maybe it's not reading all right it
i have noticed that after driving it and checking it it has a fair bit of trans fluid on the bottom of the dip stick below he add but only a very light coat almost looks like a smudge from when you pull it out up to the mid ok part do you think maybe I'm reading the the very light film of trans fluid on the ok part as being a correct level wrong and maybe it is actually very low because when I check it from a cold start warm it up and go through the gears it is very noticeable all the way up to almost the max line so 2 different readings
i have noticed that after driving it and checking it it has a fair bit of trans fluid on the bottom of the dip stick below he add but only a very light coat almost looks like a smudge from when you pull it out up to the mid ok part do you think maybe I'm reading the the very light film of trans fluid on the ok part as being a correct level wrong and maybe it is actually very low because when I check it from a cold start warm it up and go through the gears it is very noticeable all the way up to almost the max line so 2 different readings
My next thing will be tps and to cable then it will be solanoids and fluid change
01-08-2018, 08:17 PM
#26
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Ok so we dumped the tranny fluid replaced the filter and put 4 quarts back in and it's barely registering on the min line took the jeep for a drive up and down the road and still won't upshift on its own but will manally through 1st and second but won't go onto 3rd or overdrive manually even at high revs and taking my foot off the gas
my Haynes manual said I would only need 4 quarts but looks like I'll need at least 5 or 6 to get it up to where it should be
any ideas on what to try next if changing the fluid hasn't helped I have a feeling that even when it's at the right level it won't fix the problem
please anyone who many know please respond
my Haynes manual said I would only need 4 quarts but looks like I'll need at least 5 or 6 to get it up to where it should be
any ideas on what to try next if changing the fluid hasn't helped I have a feeling that even when it's at the right level it won't fix the problem
please anyone who many know please respond
01-08-2018, 09:02 PM
#27
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Ok so we dumped the tranny fluid replaced the filter and put 4 quarts back in and it's barely registering on the min line took the jeep for a drive up and down the road and still won't upshift on its own but will manally through 1st and second but won't go onto 3rd or overdrive manually even at high revs and taking my foot off the gas
my Haynes manual said I would only need 4 quarts but looks like I'll need at least 5 or 6 to get it up to where it should be
any ideas on what to try next if changing the fluid hasn't helped I have a feeling that even when it's at the right level it won't fix the problem
please anyone who many know please respond
my Haynes manual said I would only need 4 quarts but looks like I'll need at least 5 or 6 to get it up to where it should be
any ideas on what to try next if changing the fluid hasn't helped I have a feeling that even when it's at the right level it won't fix the problem
please anyone who many know please respond
As for the shifting... I believe there is also a fuse that is inline with the TCU under the dash. Yours being a RHD, I'm not sure what side they put it under...but look for this, found it in an old dead thread here. ** Orig. credit for image posted by DFlintstone
There are also 3 shifting solenoids make sure those are good...but check this fuse first. Even if not blown, it could be corroded.
:
Last edited by RocketMouse; 01-08-2018 at 09:05 PM.
01-08-2018, 09:10 PM
#28
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Hi thanks for your advice yes I've check ed the fluid level and it seems ok I've checked it a few times after running it and from warm up in the drive way all on flat surfaces at running temp maybe it's not reading all right it
i have noticed that after driving it and checking it it has a fair bit of trans fluid on the bottom of the dip stick below he add but only a very light coat almost looks like a smudge from when you pull it out up to the mid ok part do you think maybe I'm reading the the very light film of trans fluid on the ok part as being a correct level wrong and maybe it is actually very low because when I check it from a cold start warm it up and go through the gears it is very noticeable all the way up to almost the max line so 2 different readings
i have noticed that after driving it and checking it it has a fair bit of trans fluid on the bottom of the dip stick below he add but only a very light coat almost looks like a smudge from when you pull it out up to the mid ok part do you think maybe I'm reading the the very light film of trans fluid on the ok part as being a correct level wrong and maybe it is actually very low because when I check it from a cold start warm it up and go through the gears it is very noticeable all the way up to almost the max line so 2 different readings
My next thing will be tps and to cable then it will be solanoids and fluid change
Sounds like it wasn't burnt, but ready to be changed.
What you mentioned that your husband saw, you definitely want to check as well. you could have a pinched/compromised vacuum line and if so, that would give you all sorts of fits.
A pic of what and where might help too. post it in this thread.
01-08-2018, 09:30 PM
#29
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Thanks guys my husband fixed the kinked line for me so that's all good now I will have a look and see if I can find the tcu I think it's under the dash board hopefully it's just a case of a bad fuse my husband said the solanoids looked ok when he was under there but doesn't mean one or more aren't working first I'll check the fuse on the tcu
01-09-2018, 12:16 PM
#30
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my Haynes manual