The mods don't add any value to it really. So that price is wayyyyy off. I'd go no more than $2k. Why's he selling it?

The engine and transmission might have life left...get it scanned for codes, get clutch value indexes read for the transmission, that will tell you how much life the trans has left. Can you get records on it? I can see it being one of two things...
1. He's done a crap ton of work and it'll be peaceful for awhile
2. There's storm front moving in and he wants to dump it

 

He was originally looking to trade it for a pickup truck to haul his dirt bike. What kind of shop would I have to take it to for an inspection to get that kind of intricate stuff checked out? I have just your standard OBDII code reader handy. I have CarFax and AutoCheck, it has been in 1 accident (makes me worried for the unibody) and has been a southern car its whole life (hopefully no rust).
From the pictures it looks very well taken care of and he has told me of lots of maintenance done to it. While the seller seems honest and is very transparent I have learned not to trust other people's vehicles. Frankly I fear your number 2 could be likely even though he stated the exact opposite (literally in text he said he isn't trying to "dump it" on me).

Side note: Honestly it seems like the good ol' days of snagging good Cherokees for sub $3k exists anymore. The prices appear to have gone up to more the $4500 mark to get somewhat solid vehicles. Maybe everyone is finally catching onto them as a hidden gem in the offload community and decent ones are coming hard to find. All down south here I see them going for $6500-$8500 all day with 130k-190k easily. A completely stock XJ at a place called Select Jeeps here in Houston (only sells really nice mechanically sound Jeeps of all years and models) with 143k is selling for $9k

 

A transmission shop would definitely be able to pull CVIs for you.

The 1 accident thing I wouldn't loose sleep over, these are tough vehicles, so it likely wasn't too bad off from the accident. Especially if it was over a decade ago.

FWIW, I paid $2900 for my 96 Country with 116k 2 years ago. It's been a money pit, but probably my fav to drive of everything in my sig. Needs new floors and some frame patching, but it's solid.

Take it for a drive....let it idle for a bit and watch the temps. If it doesn't overheat, doesn't have death wobble and you like driving it, see if he'll come down to 3k give or take. If it has no rust, that's worth something. Didn't know that before.

 

What year is the 'promising' XJ? You don't say. Have you test driven it?

If its a '99 or under, might be ok but negotiate the price.
But as a sole DD? Don't know about that one!
Taking a risk not knowing its past maints. history.
IMO i would have another vehicle as back up other than a motor cycle.

All i can say is somewhere around that mileage is when my XJ entered the part replacement merry-go-round.

 

The mods done to it does increase the value if quality parts/labor are what it has. In the case of my XJ the most costly ones you can't see the details, like gears, lockers front and rear, custom driveshaft's, SYE, shocks and type of lift done. All of mine were done at a custom Off Road Jeep shop. The parts and labor for those items alone bought then installed about $5k.

Details really count on any Jeep you buy and proper upkeep mean a lot mine had 224,000 on the engine trans when I bought it in 2011 and still runs very well today. About the only thing that kills the price on the XJ's are RUST many times can't be repaired.

This is very true in todays market and prices are not dropping on any good XJ without rust.

 

I paid 2 grand for my 97 as soon as the test drive was over. It had 234k miles or so. All original minus the usual wear items like tires, etc. Everything worked including 4wd, and very little surface rust which was a huge plus here in PA. I did however find both rear 1/4s rotted thru behind the bumper caps while replacing the taillight harnesses removing the trailer hitch wiring. Aside from that all it really needs are suspension bushings, shocks and leafsprings. The rest is mostly cosmetic, but im going thru everything regardless.

Dont let the mileage scare you off if there is little rust. But at the same time, even lower mileage can have big problems, so you you need to be thorough. Maintenance goes a long way with these.

 

This Jeep is a 2000. I have driven many Cherokees but not this one yet. The owner and I are arranging a time to get together, I will not buy until it has been thoroughly inspected.

Are the 1999 and older better than the 2000-2001? If so for what reason?
I do know the past as I stated a little bit about it in previous posts but I am always skeptical, It really appears it is well taken care of and owner has stayed on top of things. He has quoted many maint. parts put in. I was worried about the never ending circle of parts thing because I did that with my old Miata.

The motorcycle is fine IMO as it is already my DD but I do have the option to drive my gf's car etc.

 

i know you just said it but to double up the info on this thread, take it one the freeway, that death wobble's a *****.

 

Sorry for the late reply, my last comment didn't upload for some reason.

What is better about the 1999 and older? I was looking at the 1997-2001 primarily because they have airbags compared to the older gens