CHERO-NEWBIE

Hi All,
I have been building and researching the HHO theory for about 3 years now, I have built a few generators, and I have now installed one on my 96 cherokee sport. Anybody else trying this? maybe we can swop ideas?

4.3L XJ

Yes, I have considered this and concluded that it would be too dangerous on my vehicle. Not all my gas in the line is used in the engine. The surplus is recirculated back to the tank. This would leave a hydrogen/oxygen mixture in the tank. Gas tanks are safe because they don't contain enough air to allow gas to burn. But if you introduce pure oxygen into the mixture, that changes a lot. A rear end collision could make you a good candidate for a movie shot, you know, where the car explodes and takes everything out for miles.

CHERO-NEWBIE

Ha Ha, another movie lover!! Cool! although I am running a 11 plate dry cell, connected to my vacuum line too. I have a bubbler capable of holding just over a litr liquid. I have no worries about collisions, explosions etc. I have heard of guys putting a inline flash arrestor if you are running the generator from your boot but man its sooo much easier to run it from the engine bay. I get about 2 litres a minute gas output. It makes my jeep run smoother, and alot cooler, and of course cheaper!

bsljacques

show us some pics of this generator.....

CHERO-NEWBIE

Ok, heres one I took today with my cell phone, ill take more later on.
One is the cell, showing the bubbler to the left, and the other is inside the cab, showing my MAP enhancer.

nojreyd

I am curious what kind of average mileage you are actually getting with this setup. I have hear a huge range of numbers from credible and less than credible sources. So what are you getting really?

4.3L XJ

The only hho set up I have seen puts the gas into the fuel line. Yours apparently puts it into the air intake? Hadn't thought of that.

CHERO-NEWBIE

The theory is that you mix the hydrogen with your air mixture, and that in turn goes through the normal process of air/fuel mixture. I cannot imagine trying to connect it to your fuel line, the fuel pump will push your fuel back into your generator anyway.

CHERO-NEWBIE

I come from a mechanical background and when I 1st saw this about 3 or 4 years ago, I decided to check it out. What I noticed was a bunch of academics (or rather those who like to think they are) knocking this every chance they can get, and that just proved to me that EVERYONE who knocks it, has never tried it, they have always tried to sound TOO $%$%^%^ CLEVER! So I decided to build one and see for myself. Low and behold the damn thing did what they said it would, it made hydrogen, and yes, it was inefficient at 1st (much to the delight of the so-called learned fraternity). With many blown apart generators, and burnt out fuses, the guys across the world working on this, worked out how to get your generator to use 1.4v per SS plate, thus keeping the amp draw down, and of course the heat too. So after doing this I have come to the following conclusion, does it make hydrogen? ABSOLUTELY! is it ENOUGH hydrogen to make a difference to your engine? ABSOLUTELY (if you run it you will see your engine runs cooler and smoother, sometimes depending on how bad your engine was tuned, you can actually hear the difference. but IS THE DIFFERENCE ENOUGH TO LET YOU SAVE FUEL? This is the question that they should be asking, instead of saying how crap it is, it doesnt work blah blah blah. So I am on a quest to find out for myself. My reasoning is I can pull as much amps as my car can take, I have a 30a fuse in place, so for now, that is my limit. Having said that, some guys have added another alternator etc, to give it 60 - 80amps, but ill stick with 30a for now At the moment I am drawing a steady 20a, with NO thermal runaway, with a 1.5lt per minute gas production. I can increase this by adding more electrolyte, but this will increase amp draw and heat. I can also add more plates to my generator, which brings down the amp draw and heat, but gives more gas. This I will do as I complete my tests. At the moment I am running it with the 1.5 lt and 20a draw, I will document any increase/decrease in consumption I get over a tank of petrol (85lt) I know without it, my jeep gives a steady 6.3 km/per liter. I will then increase the plates etc to get more gas, but still staying within the 30a fuse range, and again, see what results, if any, I get. I am not trying to sell this, this is purely for my own curiosity, so my findings WILL NOT BE BIASED, I will post them as soon as I get them, I have done 150km so far, so I should be able to post something next week.

a1racer

good luck and keep us informed cause i don't see it working but i have been wrong before so i wont knock the idea if it shows results

daurwid

I saw this kit for $190 and it seems legit...

CHERO-NEWBIE

It is but.......nothing you cannot build yourself, and it is a "wet cell" which has the following problems:
1. Thermal runaway (so your electrolyte gets hotter and hotter and draws more and more amps till the fuse pops.)
2. The unit is prone to "sloshing" (when you go over bumps etc the electrolyte sloshes around and sometimes ends up in your inlet pipe.
3. Not a very high gas output (SS wires are too far apart, optimum distance is 1.6mm)

Remedy
1. Build a "dry cell"
2. If you are still using the wet cell then dump the SS wire for SS plates. (more electrolysis thus more hydrogen gas)
3. Build splash plates into your cell to prevent the electrolyte getting into your inlet pipe.
4. USE A PWM (pulse width modulator with current limiting) (This lets you set the amount of amps your cell can draw, which will regulate the electrolyte temp so you wont pop fuses

Caish

Look at the date,
You think he has had time to report back it was GREAT and now he gets XXXXXXX more per gallon, or do you think those physics professors that say you can't get something from nothing are right?
Really Folks if they produced enough gas to fuel an engine to significantly increase MPG, you should be able to hook a Briggs and Stratton to a generator and apply current and then start the engine and it would never die.
Only one guy I read about claimed to do it, that was Browns Gas, and he sold plans and there is a book called Browns Gas and how to effectively generate HHO for use in cutting torches etc.

gmv93

according to my own experience after trying to duplicate electronically controlled electrolysis, what really limits gas output was the layer surrounds the electrodes. When hydrogen and oxygen starts to split from water, they sticks to electrodes and prevents it to contact electrolyte solution. to remove this limitation, they suggest to use pulse width modulation circuit to turn on turn of electric current passes through electrolyte. But this way gas layer can be removed from electrodes and water can contact them again continuously. Problem is deciding on pulse width, duty cycle and frequency. since duty cycle is the basic principle in PWM circuits, my limited knowledge on electronics were not enough to keep duty cycle and frequency independent variables. My simple lm555 based circuits never achieved seperate contol ability on parameters on square wave but, on several frequencies with very low level of amperage, there was continuous gas output. we tracked everything on osiloscope and voltmeters, wave was looking a distroted square wave but it was definitely not DC current anymore. You need waves for better efficiency.

I will try this basic setup when ever i have time in short future, but i am sure i need electronics to be involved somehow.

CHERO-NEWBIE

The reason I havent reported back is two fold,
1. For some reason the "notification" part of this site doesnt seem to notify me when someone has added to the thread
2. and this is the main reason....because xxxxxxxx's cant read properly and start giving me stick about physics professors and the like, BUT what I have been doing is giving all the guys who pvt'ed me all my data and findings, including the diagram for the pulse width modulator im using to run BOTH dry cells.