help with rust on frame!
#17
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
more pictures i can do.... charging my camera battery right now. anything particular that you want a picture of to look at?
thanks for the help so far!
thanks for the help so far!
#19
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
If you want to keep this for a few year.
Do not wheel it offroad. I doubt it will take the strain of flexing.
Also you should pull your carpet and start repairing the tub. You have a unibody so the floor is just as important as the frame rails since one can not work without the other.
Your whole jeep could be reapaired if you want to put the time and money in to it.
When you pull the carpet I would highly reccomend removing the insulation prior to putting the carpet back in. The insulation works like a sponge with water and does nothing but trap it and slowly rot your floor.
Do not wheel it offroad. I doubt it will take the strain of flexing.
Also you should pull your carpet and start repairing the tub. You have a unibody so the floor is just as important as the frame rails since one can not work without the other.
Your whole jeep could be reapaired if you want to put the time and money in to it.
When you pull the carpet I would highly reccomend removing the insulation prior to putting the carpet back in. The insulation works like a sponge with water and does nothing but trap it and slowly rot your floor.
#20
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Year: 2001
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yeah i definitely want work on the rest of the rust that is under there and take it section by section so i can still drive it but when have the time do a small area..
i was thinking of having both frame rails plated with metal or U channel, as much of them that can be..... would that be a good idea to help???
yeah, i'm going to start by pulling the back section of carpet out and looking under there first then moving forward as i have the time and figure out what i'm exactly doing. was thinking of coating the interior with truck bed coating to help out. not sure on what i should put on the bottom underneath???
i know permatex makes a rust treatment that i've been reading up about a little bit..... anyone know anything about that? or even something else i could use to help stop/convert the rust? (preferably not really expensive)
thanks for the help guys, i know i have a lot of questions and some may not seem the brightest but to me trying to learn how to do what i can by myself you guys are helping a lot.
i was thinking of having both frame rails plated with metal or U channel, as much of them that can be..... would that be a good idea to help???
yeah, i'm going to start by pulling the back section of carpet out and looking under there first then moving forward as i have the time and figure out what i'm exactly doing. was thinking of coating the interior with truck bed coating to help out. not sure on what i should put on the bottom underneath???
i know permatex makes a rust treatment that i've been reading up about a little bit..... anyone know anything about that? or even something else i could use to help stop/convert the rust? (preferably not really expensive)
thanks for the help guys, i know i have a lot of questions and some may not seem the brightest but to me trying to learn how to do what i can by myself you guys are helping a lot.
#21
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oh forgot to ask to try and clean the rust from underneath would a grinder be a good/best tool for the job or is there something else that may work even better thats a decent price? thanks
#22
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Year: 87
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I used a angle grinder for my clean up. But you have to be careful since the angle grinder will eat through sheet metal fast. They have a wire wheel for angle grinders you could try that.
#23
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Home Depot has a product that you can spray on. Used to come in a quart spray bottle, but I can only recently find it in a small squirt bottle. "The Must For Rust". I've used it for everything I needed to treat rust, even re-doing an old CJ7 frame. Stuff works great for mild to wild surface rust, and retards rust for a long time when used after the wire wheel of there's anything left. There's always Naval Jelly - a little messy, but also real good.
I recently did my entire interior and undercarriage, even had to have some sheet metal replaced in the cargo area. If you must have carpet, 1/2 inch Neoprene is what I used for padding. Doesn't absorb water like the nasty stock stuff, good for sound damping, blocks heat and easy to work with.
I recently did my entire interior and undercarriage, even had to have some sheet metal replaced in the cargo area. If you must have carpet, 1/2 inch Neoprene is what I used for padding. Doesn't absorb water like the nasty stock stuff, good for sound damping, blocks heat and easy to work with.
#24
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Year: 1993, 1994
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Being originally from Michigan, I only see one spot that really worries me. But I have to agree with the others, if there is one rust hole in the unibody, there is probably a lot of 'thin' spots that are nearly rusted through.
It is fixable, but it won't be easy or cheap. You'll need to media blast/sand blast or somehow otherwise strip the rust from the entire underside to see what you are working with. Just fixing that one spot is inviting disaster if you go off-road, you may end up with a bent Jeep! Then you'll need to cut out the effected areas and weld in new metal. To be safe you'd be wise to put u-channel reinforcement over the weakened areas, extending 6" to 8" to either side of the patch. Then coat the underside to stop it from rusting again. When you do this, you'll undoubtedly find holes in the floor pans that will need work too.
It is fixable, but it won't be easy or cheap. You'll need to media blast/sand blast or somehow otherwise strip the rust from the entire underside to see what you are working with. Just fixing that one spot is inviting disaster if you go off-road, you may end up with a bent Jeep! Then you'll need to cut out the effected areas and weld in new metal. To be safe you'd be wise to put u-channel reinforcement over the weakened areas, extending 6" to 8" to either side of the patch. Then coat the underside to stop it from rusting again. When you do this, you'll undoubtedly find holes in the floor pans that will need work too.
#25
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Year: 2001
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my neighbor works for a dealership and is going to give me a vehicle and take mine in sometime this week and get an estimate on what it would cost to have that section where the hole is plated up.....
went to home depot and lowes and the only thing i could find was rustolem rust converter so i'm going to have to try that and see if it works???
i plan on pulling up the rear carpet first to see what its like under there however i have one question.... are those tie downs riveted into the floor?? which would mean i have to drill those out? or is there a better way to do that???
thankks
went to home depot and lowes and the only thing i could find was rustolem rust converter so i'm going to have to try that and see if it works???
i plan on pulling up the rear carpet first to see what its like under there however i have one question.... are those tie downs riveted into the floor?? which would mean i have to drill those out? or is there a better way to do that???
thankks
#26
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They're riveted in. You can break the little bracket off & leave the rivet in, or you can drill them out. At least that was my experience.
#27
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Year: 1991
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Engine: L-6 4.0L MPI H.O.
I thought mine was pretty bad... I don't have any holes in my subframe at least, I've used that rust converter stuff before and it does a decent job sealing up areas to stop it from spreading in most cases. I would definitely try to invest in a mig welder or something because going through and patching every area that you're going to need to do will probably cost you a fortune. Especially if you work with a lot of older stuff with rust, I would strongly recommend buying a welder and getting decent with it, it will definitely pay itself off in time.
#28
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problem is, you can't weld to rust. even if you grind off the rust, you'll probably just burn through what's left.
if you can't get it sandblasted, at least try to get a grinder and some flap discs. use 4 1/2 inch size so you can get to all sides of the frame so to speak.
but seriously, i think you'll find it's beyond salvageable.
good luck...
if you can't get it sandblasted, at least try to get a grinder and some flap discs. use 4 1/2 inch size so you can get to all sides of the frame so to speak.
but seriously, i think you'll find it's beyond salvageable.
good luck...
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