So DFlinstone,

I was under the impression I could use up to a 96, are the differences external to where it wouldnt work in a 91?

thanks

 

Your talking engine swap? Freedgr and others may well know better. I'm pretty confident you are good with 95 down to 91. 96 to 99 OBD II might go, but I'm unfamiliar with the issues. (senor swap's ect). Pretty much clueless with 2000 & up. Course you don't want the "infamous" 0331 head.

 

I did see today that 96 to 99 goes OK. There might be issues with brackets or something swapping the sensors.
Found a thread, 5-90 talking about thrust. He brings up the same idea, that the lathe operator might have screwed up. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cra...inions-107569/

 

96 is the trasition year i would ddo 95 of below what i was trying to determin if the difference between the crank shafts was the thickness of the counter weight but cant find any info

 

WHOOPS^^^^, hard to shim it shorter.

 

that wont keep the crank from moving back and forth

 

10-4. Had thought of simply getting it to stay on the pulley well enough to get by for.......... some ....time.

 

his reason for changing the balancer was noise it was most likely the crank making the noise

 

Yea. Just that the belt immediately rides off the pulley since it is out so far. Adding shims under it won't move it in any! (was a stop-gap idea)

Anyway, checking part numbers all I found was that the main's changed in 91, then were the same clear through. Only the early (Renix era) are different bearings.

So...how to attach the pork rind? Sew it on to the flange!

So if it really does have 80K on it and turns out to have excellent compression, is it worth putting a properly ground crank in it? Gonna pull it out, take it to the JY and bring one back with 120K ?

 

i found that also sounds like crank time

 

So if it really does have 80K on it and turns out to have excellent compression, is it worth putting a properly ground crank in it? Gonna pull it out, take it to the JY and bring one back with 120K ?

Sorry, I posted that "behind" you. Yea, ^, agreed.

 

id put a crank in it myself

 

From what I was told I would spend almost the same having to pull the motor to replace the crank as I would just replacing it, truth to that ya think?

 

I wrote this earlier. I might want to do "rings and rod bearings" in my 90. Going to look at prices now. And yes, I would pull the engine to replace the crank. Inserts are one thing, that's another.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>

The terms “rebuild” or “overhaul” seem sort of intimidating? What if you just take something apart, clean it, and put it back together. Not so tough. You hopefully know how to re-assemble it since you just took it apart. What do you call that? A good cleaning.

So, when you have it apart, if you swap some old parts with new ones, and re-assemble it what do you call that? That's a rebuild. One catch. You need to roughen up the cylinder walls, “break the glaze”, so the new rings can seat. That's about it. Since valve stem seals come in the engine gasket set, I'd pull the valves and stick those on there. Since the valves are out I'd lap them using a cordless drill and a little piece of fuel line. (you can rent a cylinder hone and a valve spring compressor) Oh, and a piston ring compressor. Nothing but a sleeve that goes around the piston so you can slide it in.

If your cylinders are worn/tapered, the game changes. If you have the block bored and go to oversize pistons, you're “all in”. Probably gonna want a full valve job, cam/lifters, oil pump, timing chain/sprockets.

 

Well, I'm not absolutely sure. For one...don't know if you are manual or automatic. I'm pretty sure with a manual you would need to separate the engine and trany to get the trany shaft out of the pilot bearing. (or bushing, in the rear of the crank). If my compression was good, I had an automatic, and the crank indeed could just be swapped, I just might resign myself to a truly miserable, long weekend going that way. Once the replacement is pinned up in there.....would be a bunch more of the same as you already did.

I suppose allot could pivot on a compression test. If it was pretty good, maybe just zero in on the crank, if not consider pulling the engine, take it apart and reassemble it with some fresh goodies... if it was gone through 80K ago you might get away without needing to replace "the works".


Rockauto..Crank & bearings, 170,- engine gasket set, 100,- rings, 40. $310 plus shipping. (if they credit $75 for your crank core).
So with bandaids, beer, the cherry-picker and some other rentals, a fairly fresh engine for around $500. .....Maybe!

If I had good compression, and only a mis-ground crank, probably I'd leave the engine in and just zero in on the crank, if I could.

If I had my engine out, with the pan and crank out, I would re-ring it. Or maybe find that the cyls are too far gone and go another way.