Help i gotta take of myu altenator
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey I need help on removing my alternator to get tested. Jeep wont start is at 100% according to auto zone and oreliy so im thinking the alternator. I have a 3 inch lift so im think its easier but I need the steps
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
From: Lehigh Valley PA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix
Get a Haynes manual (~$3 on amazon)
Either way:
Disconnect battery.
Loosen/take off belt (how you do that may depend on what year you have) You can probably just loosen the tension without having to remove it/reroute it (which is a bit annoying)
If you need a new belt anyway, this would be a time to do it. A decent belt like a Gates can sometimes go as cheap as $10 on rockauto closeouts.
Go from underneath
You MAY have to remove the fan blade
You shouldn't have to remove anything else
Take wire/nut off back of alternator (might be one or two connections?)
Undo the bolts holding the alternator
Swap alternator
Getting the new one in may require a bit of finagling
Will be easier since you have a lift.
I'm doing mine tomorrow, as it is dying. I've done it before on a 96 4.0 and on my 93 c1500 4.3l. It's easy.
Also, I don't "recommend" this type of test, but I know at least on the older vehicles it was "safe", so on my 89 I tested the alt by running the engine and taking off the battery - twice in a row it shut off completely in about 2 seconds.
I noticed it was starting to die cuz the lights/dashlights would dim slightly every few seconds, but only at idle. I had done this test (taking the battery off during idle) a few months ago to rule out the alternator when my battery was dying, and it stayed running for 5 minutes before I shut it off.
I found an ACDelco 100A on amazon for $80 shipped, which was a pretty good score actually. Sometimes it's worth it to check Amazon, I've gotten starters on there for $20 cheaper than rockauto or anywhere else - and this alternator is $30 cheaper than rockauto after shipping, and over $50+ cheaper than in a store.
Either way:
Disconnect battery.
Loosen/take off belt (how you do that may depend on what year you have) You can probably just loosen the tension without having to remove it/reroute it (which is a bit annoying)
If you need a new belt anyway, this would be a time to do it. A decent belt like a Gates can sometimes go as cheap as $10 on rockauto closeouts.
Go from underneath
You MAY have to remove the fan blade
You shouldn't have to remove anything else
Take wire/nut off back of alternator (might be one or two connections?)
Undo the bolts holding the alternator
Swap alternator
Getting the new one in may require a bit of finagling
Will be easier since you have a lift.
I'm doing mine tomorrow, as it is dying. I've done it before on a 96 4.0 and on my 93 c1500 4.3l. It's easy.
Also, I don't "recommend" this type of test, but I know at least on the older vehicles it was "safe", so on my 89 I tested the alt by running the engine and taking off the battery - twice in a row it shut off completely in about 2 seconds.
I noticed it was starting to die cuz the lights/dashlights would dim slightly every few seconds, but only at idle. I had done this test (taking the battery off during idle) a few months ago to rule out the alternator when my battery was dying, and it stayed running for 5 minutes before I shut it off.
I found an ACDelco 100A on amazon for $80 shipped, which was a pretty good score actually. Sometimes it's worth it to check Amazon, I've gotten starters on there for $20 cheaper than rockauto or anywhere else - and this alternator is $30 cheaper than rockauto after shipping, and over $50+ cheaper than in a store.
Last edited by Stabsthedrama; Oct 3, 2014 at 02:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Get a Haynes manual (~$3 on amazon)
Either way:
Disconnect battery.
Loosen/take off belt (how you do that may depend on what year you have) You can probably just loosen the tension without having to remove it/reroute it (which is a bit annoying)
If you need a new belt anyway, this would be a time to do it. A decent belt like a Gates can sometimes go as cheap as $10 on rockauto closeouts.
Go from underneath
You MAY have to remove the fan blade
You shouldn't have to remove anything else
Take wire/nut off back of alternator (might be one or two connections?)
Undo the bolts holding the alternator
Swap alternator
Getting the new one in may require a bit of finagling
Will be easier since you have a lift.
I'm doing mine tomorrow, as it is dying. I've done it before on a 96 4.0 and on my 93 c1500 4.3l. It's easy.
Also, I don't "recommend" this type of test, but I know at least on the older vehicles it was "safe", so on my 89 I tested the alt by running the engine and taking off the battery - twice in a row it shut off completely in about 2 seconds.
I noticed it was starting to die cuz the lights/dashlights would dim slightly every few seconds, but only at idle. I had done this test (taking the battery off during idle) a few months ago to rule out the alternator when my battery was dying, and it stayed running for 5 minutes before I shut it off.
I found an ACDelco 100A on amazon for $80 shipped, which was a pretty good score actually. Sometimes it's worth it to check Amazon, I've gotten starters on there for $20 cheaper than rockauto or anywhere else - and this alternator is $30 cheaper than rockauto after shipping, and over $50+ cheaper than in a store.
Either way:
Disconnect battery.
Loosen/take off belt (how you do that may depend on what year you have) You can probably just loosen the tension without having to remove it/reroute it (which is a bit annoying)
If you need a new belt anyway, this would be a time to do it. A decent belt like a Gates can sometimes go as cheap as $10 on rockauto closeouts.
Go from underneath
You MAY have to remove the fan blade
You shouldn't have to remove anything else
Take wire/nut off back of alternator (might be one or two connections?)
Undo the bolts holding the alternator
Swap alternator
Getting the new one in may require a bit of finagling
Will be easier since you have a lift.
I'm doing mine tomorrow, as it is dying. I've done it before on a 96 4.0 and on my 93 c1500 4.3l. It's easy.
Also, I don't "recommend" this type of test, but I know at least on the older vehicles it was "safe", so on my 89 I tested the alt by running the engine and taking off the battery - twice in a row it shut off completely in about 2 seconds.
I noticed it was starting to die cuz the lights/dashlights would dim slightly every few seconds, but only at idle. I had done this test (taking the battery off during idle) a few months ago to rule out the alternator when my battery was dying, and it stayed running for 5 minutes before I shut it off.
I found an ACDelco 100A on amazon for $80 shipped, which was a pretty good score actually. Sometimes it's worth it to check Amazon, I've gotten starters on there for $20 cheaper than rockauto or anywhere else - and this alternator is $30 cheaper than rockauto after shipping, and over $50+ cheaper than in a store.
Its a 95 xj does it matter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Alternator can be tested in the vehicle if you can get it running.
Otherwise, remove battery and battery tray and go at it from the top.
Your original post is confusing. What is at 100%? Battery? Why suspect alternator on a no start situation with battery at 100%? Does it crank, but not fire off, or no crank at all?
If no crank at all suspect starter, solenoid, wiring, grounds, battery cables, ignition switch, etc.
Otherwise, remove battery and battery tray and go at it from the top.
Your original post is confusing. What is at 100%? Battery? Why suspect alternator on a no start situation with battery at 100%? Does it crank, but not fire off, or no crank at all?
If no crank at all suspect starter, solenoid, wiring, grounds, battery cables, ignition switch, etc.
Last edited by Firestorm500; Oct 3, 2014 at 03:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alternator can be tested in the vehicle if you can get it running.
Otherwise, remove battery and battery tray and go at it from the top.
Your original post is confusing. What is at 100%? Battery? Why suspect alternator on a no start situation with battery at 100%? Does it crank, but not fire off, or no crank at all?
If no crank at all suspect starter, solenoid, wiring, grounds, battery cables, ignition switch, etc.
Otherwise, remove battery and battery tray and go at it from the top.
Your original post is confusing. What is at 100%? Battery? Why suspect alternator on a no start situation with battery at 100%? Does it crank, but not fire off, or no crank at all?
If no crank at all suspect starter, solenoid, wiring, grounds, battery cables, ignition switch, etc.
Sorry was in a rush to get out of work. Battery was it 100%
When I first got in everything went dead my lil bro gave me a jump and it would crank but no fire then it would ony click. When it did start if it was idling and I rolled down the window my voltage reading would go down everything I started it was right on the white line after the red
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