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HELP.... got a tick

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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:12 AM
  #16  
94JeepCherokeeMan's Avatar
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Yiiiiiiiiiiikes. Dude, you got bad news. Might be time to start rebuilding. Sorry man.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #17  
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so when i get the chance, im going to take the rod caps off one cylinder at a time and inspect the bearings.... im hoping ill discover that this is the source problem, as it is a fairly inexpensive fix..(like $8 per cylinder)....

**** in theory, if there is a worn, cracked, or F'd up rod bearing, that rod should have play at the crankshaft, CORRECT? if so, trying to "wiggle" each rod should show the results without having to remove the bolts...?

i wonder also, if this is a problem that would cause poor, or fluxuating oil pressure? (light goes on and off constantly).....

what are YOUR thoughts on this?

thanks!
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 02:46 PM
  #18  
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there is vertical play in 5 of 6 cylinders, at the connecting rods.. maybe like 1/16in or so...

i took off one of the caps and inspected the bearings, which are warn.\

i talked to a mechanic at work who says to replace these, and check the main crank shaft bearings as well. he also says that i must have good oil pressure because when i cranked it over with the valve cover off it covered the underside of the hood..... im thinking the oil press sensor is no good....

so this is my mission for today, wish me luck!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 03:08 PM
  #19  
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Good luck James.

My 2 cents here sound like water/mud digestion might have caused a piston/sleeve/bearing to crack or bend.

Not much help I know.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #20  
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Dude, I hope you can revive your jeep without sinking too much money into it.
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 94JeepCherokeeMan
Dude, I hope you can revive your jeep without sinking too much money into it.
thats my goal!

ill be about $50 into it after replacing the rod bearings. i removed them all and there was noticable wear marks on 5 of the 6 upper bearings. i punched numbers in each cap respectively 1-6, as to be sure they go back together in their proper location.

tomorrow im going to remove the main bearings on the crank shaft and have the mechanic i work with inspect them.

so far its an easy motor to work on, and im learning alot in the process.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mr. james
thats my goal!

ill be about $50 into it after replacing the rod bearings. i removed them all and there was noticable wear marks on 5 of the 6 upper bearings. i punched numbers in each cap respectively 1-6, as to be sure they go back together in their proper location.

tomorrow im going to remove the main bearings on the crank shaft and have the mechanic i work with inspect them.

so far its an easy motor to work on, and im learning alot in the process.
Were you able to remove the pan with out removing front end parts?
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by waltermitty
Were you able to remove the pan with out removing front end parts?

used a bottle jack between the axle and frame rail, barely came out.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 12:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mr. james
thanks.....no kiddin tho on the snorkel, that hole didnt SEEM all that deep!

went home with a dent in every panel, lost a flare, and dragged a tree that wedged in my rear wheel and was smoking...all in my boxers cuz my pants were soo caked w mud i left em on the mountain! it wasnt a good night!

and advice on fixing this problem?!
Yeah I went through a pond that i thought was only 6" deep max and the bottom was all silt. I sank to above my lights. luckily i turned off the engine when i sank.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mr. james
used a bottle jack between the axle and frame rail, barely came out.
I'll have to remember that move. Sounds like a good one.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 01:01 AM
  #26  
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