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Help!! Brake Line Issues

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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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CherokeeCat's Avatar
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Angry Help!! Brake Line Issues

Ok- So I've jumped in with both feet and attempted to change the front disk brake pads MYSELF. If you say, no big deal... well, for me it is. I usually pay someone else to do work on my vehicles and decided that I could handle it. Today's weather here was great so I decided to tackle it this afternoon

Everything went well until I got to put it back on all fours and started to pump the brakes back up (I've read everything I can get my hands on about this 'procedure'). I pumped the pedal for a while and still it goes to the floor.
Get out and there's a puddle under both sides of the front by the tires.
Evidently, I missed the part about replacing the brass bushings that go between the brake line and the bleeder screw. I went to the local NAPA and they didn't have an exact match. Tried them anyway and still leaks like a sieve.

Will I have to go to the local Chrysler dealership to get these four miniscule parts that are giving me such a fit? Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks!
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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xj jason's Avatar
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i sont really understand what you are talking about???
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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My question is why did you remove the brake hoses if you were just changing the pads? You don't need to do that for a pad change. If you do remove the brake lines from the brake caliper you definitely do have to re-install the brass ring between the banjo bolt head and the line and the other brass ring that goes between the line and the caliper.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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did you crack the bleeder vavles? because bleeding a system is a 2 MAN JOB. the seals in question shouldn't need replacing.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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thats true why did you remove the brake lines?
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:48 PM
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Well, where to start...

I tried NOT to remove the brake lines but the piston was "in" so I didn't know of another way to push it back in without getting rid of the pressure. What could I have done to prevent that?

What's done is done so now I'll have to somehow get the leak stopped. BTW, after looking at the calipers, they'll have to be replaced w/in a few months (probably the rotors, too )

Any ideas on the piston situation? Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I've got a sick young'un.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 12:03 AM
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Dude, go down to your local hardware store and pick up a 10-12" "C" clamp. This is what you use to push the pistons in.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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Dude, go down to your local hardware store and pick up a 10-12" "C" clamp. This is what you use to push the pistons in.
Yep that works well. If all you did was disconnect the lines and reconnect them the old brass bushings should still be OK unless they were bad when you started. Also make sure there is no dirt or gunk under them where they press against the caliper and the line to prevent them from sealing. Like finneys98xj said bleeding brakes is a 2 man job one pumping and the other bleeding so when you get to that step remember that. As for getting new bushings I know the correct ones come with the kit when you buy new lines but I am not sure if you can get them separate. If you already tried Napa and they didn't have them then you may have to go to the dealer. Or another auto parts store.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BuckB91XJ
Dude, go down to your local hardware store and pick up a 10-12" "C" clamp. This is what you use to push the pistons in.
The FSM said to do that, which I attempted but this was while the caliper was still on the rotor. The instructions obviously weren't real clear as I did it as described but it obviously didn't work. After the caliper was off I was concerned about messing up the boot around the piston or the piston itself by pushing on just one side... would that damage the piston?

I called the local dealership this morning and they don't have the bushings so it's off to some other parts stores...

Thanks for the input, guys.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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ahhhh i still remember my first brake job. ok now you know you dont need to remove the brake lines to do a brake job. next step fix whats now done. 9 times out of ten the parts guys wont know what they are looking for, so bring the old one with you. you can use a crush washer or a brass washer. they have some at the hardware stores like home depot and lowes also, but i think they are in the bathroom section...
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CherokeeCat
After the caliper was off I was concerned about messing up the boot around the piston or the piston itself by pushing on just one side... would that damage the piston?
you use a OLD brake pad between the piston and C-Clamp...bleeding brakes is easy by your self if you have a vaccum hand pump. Keep a eye on the level in the resevoir if it is empted you have to start over......Now that you opened up the lines on the fron you have to beed the WHOLE system...starting with the rear.......Till you get NO more air bubbles. As for the copper washers some parts store has to have them. Keep your fingers crossed you dont snap off a bleeder....
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 11:00 AM
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With the style pads that the XJ's have, I usually use the C-clamp idea BEFORE doing anything else. While everything is still together. Why? Pushing everything in causes the spring clips that hold the outer pad onto the caliper to bend, thusly making it easier to remove them. VERY good if your replacing them, if your just removing them and re-using...NOT a good idea.

Oh yeah, you want to make sure you have popped the top on your master cylinder. The returning fluid can cause a pressure build-up and force the piston back out.

Last edited by Howler_GT; Jan 24, 2009 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 76ANTHONY
ahhhh i still remember my first brake job. ok now you know you dont need to remove the brake lines to do a brake job. next step fix whats now done. 9 times out of ten the parts guys wont know what they are looking for, so bring the old one with you. you can use a crush washer or a brass washer. they have some at the hardware stores like home depot and lowes also, but i think they are in the bathroom section...
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself
That's exactly where I found the washers... matched exactly. Bad news though is I think one of the bleeder screws cross-threaded on me and now I'll have to get a new one as it won't seal up now. This is my DD so it's ticking me off but I'm going to have to let a friend take care of it tomorrow while I'm at work.

Really appreciate all the help guys... this has been a learning experience- that's for sure.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:38 PM
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glad you found them. next time you get ready to do something, come here and ask about it first so we can give you fair warning or tricks to make it easier. hey we all start somewhere and i think you did pretty good, i blew an engine trying to learn so im sure you havent spent that much on this fix...
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 76ANTHONY
glad you found them. next time you get ready to do something, come here and ask about it first so we can give you fair warning or tricks to make it easier. hey we all start somewhere and i think you did pretty good, i blew an engine trying to learn so im sure you havent spent that much on this fix...
Thanks for all your help and positive feedback! Got it in this morning to the shop and it's all finished. Damage =$40 plus I'll have it back in working order for the 2"-6" snow we're supposed to get tonight!!

Learned a good lesson with this so I guess it was a successful venture anyway. I "thought" I had all the possibilities covered but I guess you don't know all the options until you've been there at least once! I probably won't remove the brake line again unless there's a real need or some one holds a gun to my head!!

Thanks again to everyone that helped out... this is a great place to talk "Jeep"!
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