Help!! Brake Line Issues
Ok- So I've jumped in with both feet and attempted to change the front disk brake pads MYSELF. If you say, no big deal... well, for me it is. I usually pay someone else to do work on my vehicles and decided that I could handle it. Today's weather here was great so I decided to tackle it this afternoon
Everything went well until I got to put it back on all fours and started to pump the brakes back up (I've read everything I can get my hands on about this 'procedure'). I pumped the pedal for a while and still it goes to the floor.
Get out and there's a puddle under both sides of the front by the tires.
Evidently, I missed the part about replacing the brass bushings that go between the brake line and the bleeder screw. I went to the local NAPA and they didn't have an exact match. Tried them anyway and still leaks like a sieve.
Will I have to go to the local Chrysler dealership to get these four miniscule parts that are giving me such a fit? Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks!
Everything went well until I got to put it back on all fours and started to pump the brakes back up (I've read everything I can get my hands on about this 'procedure'). I pumped the pedal for a while and still it goes to the floor.
Get out and there's a puddle under both sides of the front by the tires.
Evidently, I missed the part about replacing the brass bushings that go between the brake line and the bleeder screw. I went to the local NAPA and they didn't have an exact match. Tried them anyway and still leaks like a sieve.
Will I have to go to the local Chrysler dealership to get these four miniscule parts that are giving me such a fit? Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks!
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
My question is why did you remove the brake hoses if you were just changing the pads? You don't need to do that for a pad change. If you do remove the brake lines from the brake caliper you definitely do have to re-install the brass ring between the banjo bolt head and the line and the other brass ring that goes between the line and the caliper.
Well, where to start...
I tried NOT to remove the brake lines but the piston was "in" so I didn't know of another way to push it back in without getting rid of the pressure. What could I have done to prevent that?
What's done is done so now I'll have to somehow get the leak stopped. BTW, after looking at the calipers, they'll have to be replaced w/in a few months (probably the rotors, too
)
Any ideas on the piston situation? Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I've got a sick young'un.
I tried NOT to remove the brake lines but the piston was "in" so I didn't know of another way to push it back in without getting rid of the pressure. What could I have done to prevent that?
What's done is done so now I'll have to somehow get the leak stopped. BTW, after looking at the calipers, they'll have to be replaced w/in a few months (probably the rotors, too
Any ideas on the piston situation? Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I've got a sick young'un.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Dude, go down to your local hardware store and pick up a 10-12" "C" clamp. This is what you use to push the pistons in.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 348
Likes: 4
From: 25 Miles From Moab!
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Dude, go down to your local hardware store and pick up a 10-12" "C" clamp. This is what you use to push the pistons in.
as I did it as described but it obviously didn't work. After the caliper was off I was concerned about messing up the boot around the piston or the piston itself by pushing on just one side... would that damage the piston?I called the local dealership this morning and they don't have the bushings so it's off to some other parts stores...
Thanks for the input, guys.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 1
From: palm desert,ca
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0
ahhhh i still remember my first brake job. ok now you know you dont need to remove the brake lines to do a brake job. next step fix whats now done. 9 times out of ten the parts guys wont know what they are looking for, so bring the old one with you. you can use a crush washer or a brass washer. they have some at the hardware stores like home depot and lowes also, but i think they are in the bathroom section...
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Stafford,VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Keep your fingers crossed you dont snap off a bleeder....
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 7
From: Schnecksville, PA
Year: 94 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
With the style pads that the XJ's have, I usually use the C-clamp idea BEFORE doing anything else. While everything is still together. Why? Pushing everything in causes the spring clips that hold the outer pad onto the caliper to bend, thusly making it easier to remove them. VERY good if your replacing them, if your just removing them and re-using...NOT a good idea.
Oh yeah, you want to make sure you have popped the top on your master cylinder. The returning fluid can cause a pressure build-up and force the piston back out.
Oh yeah, you want to make sure you have popped the top on your master cylinder. The returning fluid can cause a pressure build-up and force the piston back out.
Last edited by Howler_GT; Jan 24, 2009 at 11:03 AM.
ahhhh i still remember my first brake job. ok now you know you dont need to remove the brake lines to do a brake job. next step fix whats now done. 9 times out of ten the parts guys wont know what they are looking for, so bring the old one with you. you can use a crush washer or a brass washer. they have some at the hardware stores like home depot and lowes also, but i think they are in the bathroom section...
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself
hey at least you did it yourself. i use the c-clamp method with the old pad on the piston itself

Really appreciate all the help guys... this has been a learning experience- that's for sure.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 1
From: palm desert,ca
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0
glad you found them. next time you get ready to do something, come here and ask about it first so we can give you fair warning or tricks to make it easier. hey we all start somewhere and i think you did pretty good, i blew an engine trying to learn so im sure you havent spent that much on this fix...
glad you found them. next time you get ready to do something, come here and ask about it first so we can give you fair warning or tricks to make it easier. hey we all start somewhere and i think you did pretty good, i blew an engine trying to learn so im sure you havent spent that much on this fix...


Learned a good lesson with this so I guess it was a successful venture anyway. I "thought" I had all the possibilities covered but I guess you don't know all the options until you've been there at least once! I probably won't remove the brake line again unless there's a real need or some one holds a gun to my head!!

Thanks again to everyone that helped out... this is a great place to talk "Jeep"!
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