Help with Adjusting Parking Brake after new shoes and hardware
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 51
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hows it going,
I recently replaced all the hardware, springs and shoes in my 1997 Cherokee. The old stuff was toast and the braking feels much better now. I also bled the system.
However, the parking brake never really worked and it didn't get any better with new shoes and hardware.
I have not seen any straight forward instructions on how to do this.
The closest I have seen is:
1. Jack up the rear of car.
2. Adjust the star adjuster until it is hard to spin the wheel by hand.
3. Back the star adjuster off 3 clicks*
*HOW DO YOU DO THIS, it is clicking in one direction so that it doesn't go the other way? How do you back it off with out removing the wheel and drum?
I have also found an empty parking lot, reversed at a decent speed and pumped the brakes 4-5 times and repeated it. This has not helped either.
Lastly, the adjustment near the driveshaft is about dead centered on the adjustment bolt. I am assuming this is where it is supposed to be - maybe not.
Any insight on how to "back off the star adjuster" or other helpful information.
Thank you!
I recently replaced all the hardware, springs and shoes in my 1997 Cherokee. The old stuff was toast and the braking feels much better now. I also bled the system.
However, the parking brake never really worked and it didn't get any better with new shoes and hardware.
I have not seen any straight forward instructions on how to do this.
The closest I have seen is:
1. Jack up the rear of car.
2. Adjust the star adjuster until it is hard to spin the wheel by hand.
3. Back the star adjuster off 3 clicks*
*HOW DO YOU DO THIS, it is clicking in one direction so that it doesn't go the other way? How do you back it off with out removing the wheel and drum?
I have also found an empty parking lot, reversed at a decent speed and pumped the brakes 4-5 times and repeated it. This has not helped either.
Lastly, the adjustment near the driveshaft is about dead centered on the adjustment bolt. I am assuming this is where it is supposed to be - maybe not.
Any insight on how to "back off the star adjuster" or other helpful information.
Thank you!
Don't waste your time pumping the brakes in reverse. It will not work, the self adjusting on our Jeeps leaves a lot to be desired.
The way I have adjusted mine is to adjust the star wheel with the drum off, so that there is a very slight drag when putting the drum back on. This will get you close, and make adjusting with the drum on easier.
Once the drum is on, from underneath you adjust the star wheel through the access point on the bottom of the backing plate. You are correct, that once assembled the star wheel does not easily want to move in the opposite direction. I use 2 small screw drivers and with one pry the arm away from the star wheel and with the other rotate the star wheel. I'll do this until I'm happy with the star wheel adjustment.
Once that is complete, I will then adjust the cable from underneath (you mention this as the adjustment near the driveshaft). I wouldn't get hung up on whether it is in the middle or not, I have no clue where mine is. I just adjust it until I'm happy with the e-brake handle position when engaged.
Of all the vehicles I've had over the years with drum brakes, the XJ is the most stubborn to adjust. So don't lose too much sleep thinking you are doing something wrong. You're probably just experiencing the same thing we all go through when adjusting the rear brakes.
The way I have adjusted mine is to adjust the star wheel with the drum off, so that there is a very slight drag when putting the drum back on. This will get you close, and make adjusting with the drum on easier.
Once the drum is on, from underneath you adjust the star wheel through the access point on the bottom of the backing plate. You are correct, that once assembled the star wheel does not easily want to move in the opposite direction. I use 2 small screw drivers and with one pry the arm away from the star wheel and with the other rotate the star wheel. I'll do this until I'm happy with the star wheel adjustment.
Once that is complete, I will then adjust the cable from underneath (you mention this as the adjustment near the driveshaft). I wouldn't get hung up on whether it is in the middle or not, I have no clue where mine is. I just adjust it until I'm happy with the e-brake handle position when engaged.
Of all the vehicles I've had over the years with drum brakes, the XJ is the most stubborn to adjust. So don't lose too much sleep thinking you are doing something wrong. You're probably just experiencing the same thing we all go through when adjusting the rear brakes.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,863
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997 230,000 miles
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Yeah drum brakes use this adjuster system and have for years. Once assembled you do need 3 hands. you have to push the foot off the wheel to back it off with the adjusting spoon, (screwdriver) , .Also there is a small window hole in the brake plate to knock out and a rubber plug included in the spring kit for it...to do this adjusting. That said what happens alot too, is the park brake cable rusts and freezes up, throwing everything off. Best to replace that if any issues adjusting or it holding the brake too tight.
OR, just put the drum on, turn the star wheel carefully tighter, until you just feel very light drag, are sure its centering the shoes, ..(you can easily back it off with the drum off) and if you're satisfied the adjuster will work, stop and assemble and drive it and the adjuster will finish taking it all the way tight. That's the preferred method. if you have to back it off after the job is done, which you want to avoid, and its NOt the p brake holding it tight, then use the above method
OR, just put the drum on, turn the star wheel carefully tighter, until you just feel very light drag, are sure its centering the shoes, ..(you can easily back it off with the drum off) and if you're satisfied the adjuster will work, stop and assemble and drive it and the adjuster will finish taking it all the way tight. That's the preferred method. if you have to back it off after the job is done, which you want to avoid, and its NOt the p brake holding it tight, then use the above method
Last edited by 97grand4.0; Apr 12, 2018 at 06:27 AM.
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