Tom Michel

Hello. I recently bought a 1995 Cherokee 4wd W/4.0. The guy who sold it really got me good. It ran great for a couple of days, and then all hell broke loose. It turns out that the block & head were both cracked and haphazardly repaired. So, I bought the following new parts to get it back on the road:
Remanufactured engine
Water pump
Radiator
Thermostat & housing
Crankshaft position sensor
Temp sensor (engine control)
Temp sensor (gauge)
Throttle position sensor
Magnetic pick-up
Plugs, wires, cap & rotor
Fuel injectors
All belts and hoses
Motor mounts
Distributer

Everything on this jeep was Mickey moused. From the 4th grader weld on the block to the hot glue used on the back of the power steering pump to control a leak. When I first put the new motor in, It would not start. I thought it was timing and repositioned the distributer several times. It would intermittently fire without starting and I could smell fuel. I finally decided to change the injectors back as by this time there was fuel in the oil. So, I changed both the injectors and the oil. The engine fired right up. I let it get to operating temp and got the timing light out to fine tune the timing. I shut the engine down and got the light hooked up. The engine once again failed to start. The spark was non-existent. After several days of troubleshooting, I accidentally found the issue was in a once again low budget repair on the CPS. I replaced it, and once again the engine kicked over right away. Now realizing that all I needed to do was get the timing close and let the computer do the fine tuning, I thought I was home free. The jeep idles and runs well. However, It takes a long time to warm up. And although the temp gauge says the engine is at operating temp, the radiator water is barely warm. It will get to about 215 to 220 and hover there.
This is too high. I have done everything I can think of to remedy the problem. At the recommendation of a mechanic, I even replaced the thermostat again and drilled a small hole at the top to allow air to escape. I am at my wits end. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bustedback

Incorrect base timing can cause the engine to run hotter, a bad fan clutch will cause the engine to run hotter when sitting still, and sometimes a fresh engine will run warmer until it breaks in and loosens up a little. A high ratio of anti-freeze to water can cause and engine to run hotter too.

tjwalker

With all these new parts, it is time for a verification of your actual coolant temp.

Get an infrared point and shoot thermometer. They are widely available anywhere now and pretty inexpensive. Any shop would also have this.

Point it directly at the thermostat housing. Then you will know for SURE what your actual coolant temp is.

If it is only running warm at idle and then goes back down to the 200-210 range when on the highway, as mentioned...the fan clutch is suspect. The fan clutch is the #1 cause of temp creep at idle.

Tom Michel

Thanks for the input. Can you give me a clue as to how to set the base timing?
The book does not have anything on it. All it said is not necessary.
Thanks

Tom Michel

Thanks for the help. I will get a laser thermometer and test it. It runs warm even on the road. With that said, I have only driven it about 1 mile since the rebuild for fear of overheating.
Since the hoses and fluid are just warm at the radiator, could this be an issue with a water blockage in the engine somewhere?
Thanks,
Tom

TheJerm

No, could be a problem with the temp gauge itself. Check that 1st then work towards more expensive parts