Coincidently I happen to know the tc was never changed. So why does the 4 wheel drive light turn off if I have that line plugged?

And are you able to spin your rear wheels in 4 wheel drive?

 

If you want a permanent fix then replace the two piece axle with a one piece but you need to put in a seal and polish the new axle. I have not done this but have seen it done twice. Mine is a non-disco axle.

 

the light going off is because the switch his hook to the actuater on the axle,its controled by vacum just like the shift motor

 

The shift actuator is not plugged in at all. You used a kit to bypass it. I flipped it upsiide down and took out that whole section of cable. Then I capped it back where it turns into a steel line. So if the light is going off is it because there is a leak in one of those metal lines i capped?

 

You can spin your wheels in 4wheel drive,but the fronts should also.
If it requires vacuum to engage 4wheel drive then plugging the line is the same as switching out of 4wheel drive.
I do not have that axle,but it sounds like a vacuum issue to me,switch,leak,etc.

 

I can't see how turning the shift fork over in the housing will help at all in keeping the two parts engaged. I would restore it to its original position and check all the vacuum lines again. Make sure the football is not cracked which will cause a vacuum leak.

 

the line I capped is rubber with a plastic T in it going to the axle from the fire wall.The switch that turns on the light in the dash is on the fender under the battery is controlled by the same vacum as the actuator.Now a cable controls the shift fork and the switch is hard wired from the shift fork to the switch on the fender with goes to the light in the dash.

 

so basically the light turning off is a vacuum leak.

 

the system I use now is from a company called PosiLok I got it at Quadratec.

 

The reason why flipping it upside down works is because when you turn off your 4 wheel drive the actuator goes into the rest position and it stays unlocked. So if you flip it upside down and disconnect it and stays in the locked position, and always returns to the lock position. But basically what you have told me is that if I plugged off all the lines going to that actuator and I am having the light turn off when I am revving my engine at rest or while I am driving that it is a vacuum leak

 

If there is no vacum at all, then yes, if you undid all the vacum lines comeing off the axle shift modual.One of those lines goes to the switch for the light.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll figure it out. We must have different setups, cause mine doesn't go to the firewall, my truck has 3 hard lines that go to a rubber plug right behind the control arm, the plug goes to a double plug that goes to the shift actuator, and then the other line goes to the outside of the shift actuator. Putting a solid axle in won't fix the problem, it's locked now, vacuum lines properly plugged, and when I hit the gas at idle, the light goes off for a second. Which is going to happen when I put a solid axle in there and plug the lines, cause I would be plugging them the very same way.

 

just proves no 2 jeeps are alike

 

They were the same out of the factory,after that game on,who knows what has been done to these jeeps after that.

 

There are a couple of things to check. First, do you have a check valve in the system to keep your vacuum from rising when the manifold vacuum rises. Second, is there a small leak in the vacuum motor diaphragm. Either situation would cause the symptoms you are describing. Good luck