My 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport [2WD] has been running a little off over the past few years.. Having had it for ten years, I can tell by the engine noise. I am not car-inclined, but I've kept it in seemingly good repair and maintenance. I had two somewhat major accidents in 2010, both front-end collisions which appeared to only be body damage to the front end, which was replaced and the engine still ran well. The check engine light problems started about 8 months after the accidents.. but the minor engine noises began before.

Beginning about a year ago [Xmas 2010], I drove to Florida from California. Drove 16 hours a day, no overheating or other problems, had an oil change when I arrived. It started chugging very roughly occasionally like a lawnmower when I started the ignition, but shutting it off and restarting usually fixed it. The check engine light came on while I was staying in Florida, and I had the car "fixed" there. I don't remember what was done, but something was replaced to the tune of $400. I had the feeling the mechanic just replaced something and moved on rather than assessing the problem. But the car ran more smoothly and I had to get home.

Over last summer [2011], I drove to Florida again, and again had car problems when there, the light came on again. Took it back to the same garage, and another supposedly more expert mechanic fixed it to the tune of about $250. Apparently the warning codes it gave were something about the emissions, which he said were a very indirect way of indicating the real problem. I drove back to California, driving 16 hours a day without trouble and 2 miles from my house the check engine light came on again.

I took it to my mechanic several times, and his sensor that read the warning codes apparently kept indicating it was a problem with the catalytic converter. He cleaned the converter and did some other things for $300, then a few days later the light came on again. Took it back again, and he basically did the same thing again for another big bill. The day after I picked it up, the engine light was on again. I'd had enough.

It began running very rough a couple of months ago, and having a shudder issue on the freeway my friend said could be something called "blowback" if it was due to emissions. The exhaust smelled terrible, like a jetplane or semi truck. The car often had no pickup, then would kick into gear and speed up.

I tried a new garage, and for the past two weeks off and on they have tried to diagnose the problem. Replaced spark plugs, fixed some other things to remedy 'misfires'. Same problems, kept getting worse. Was running very badly, and nearly conked out several times when idling. I also had a dead battery twice [related? maybe I left a light on? Don't know] and had to have it jumped. The new garage was stumped and consulted an electrician, and they all determined it was some sort of fuel injector issue, rather than the catalytic converter. They replaced the coil assembly and the computer. I picked it up today, and it does run much more smoothly and has that vroom sound again.. but I had a small shudder incident again on the freeway tonight while driving, and it ran a little rough and had the no pickup issue again, but in a much lesser fashion. The exhaust smells better, but has a whiff of the former semitruck smell. And the check engine light came on AGAIN, about 3 blocks after I drove away from picking it up at the garage this afternoon. It is still on.

HELP!!! What is the problem?! I have tried 3 or 4 different garages in various states, and apparently no one can figure it out. I have paid a large amount of money and the car is still not fixed. I'm at the end of my rope....??????????

I don't notice any obvious leaks puddling in my parking spot, and there aren't any overheating issues. I don't appear to have any electrical system problems with the car other than the possible battery issue.

 

what code did it say when it was read?

 

I don't know the actual number code, but my previous mechanic here said it indicated the catalytic converter. That was each time I took it in to him, he said the code for the catalytic converter came up.

The mechanic I just used said that it did not and that it did not need to be replaced.

 

take it to autozone and have them print out the code so you can tell us it

 

You can pull the codes yourself. It's a little tricky but starting with the key in the OFF position then turn the key to the ON position just until you see the dash start to light up then immmediately turn it back to the OFF position repeating this 3 times. So it's OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON in quick succesion. On the 3rd ON leave the key in the ON position. The codes should flash on the odometer then a DONE when it is finished. It takes a few tries if you never done it before. Every Chrysler product since the 80's you can do this to pull codes. If the vehicle has a mechanical odometer then you have count the flashes of the CEL.

 

Or just stop by the nearest auto parts place (checker, orileys, autozone, advance, etc) and have them read it so they give you the definition as well...

 

So every time a mechanic read the codes it indicated cat converter and no one replaced the cat converter? Did they replace the O2 sensors? The crank position sensor?

 

That technique will not work on his 2001. That luxury went away some time in 1997.

Post the EXACT code(s) (not just a description) here for comment.

Use the OBD technology provided to you by your Jeep. The fact that you have symptoms and a code is not a coincidence.

 

Or you can sell it to me for $800. I can pick it up this weekend...

 

That's funny I did it to my 2002 GCL before I purchased it on Monday, and I also did it on my 2001 Neon when I needed to. The function is still there it's just all in the wrist, and timing. If you'd like I get a video.

 

 

From mid 1997 (approximately) through 2001 on the XJ, when you try to retrieve codes using the odometer trick, all you are going to see is a "self test" of the instrument cluster functions. That self test may look like it is scanning for codes, but it isn't. It's just confirming cluster operation.

That odometer technique for code retrieval DID work on 1996 and some 1997 XJs until Chrysler went to a different system.

Using either a code reader or scan tool or finding a parts store that will do this for you are the only options for this 2001.....

 

Here in Ca. so I am told we can no longer get codes read at our auto stores because of our wonderful emmission BS! So dont waste ur time there. But they will sell u a code reader! What I was told by AZ is its against the law here now.

 

Strange since Chrysler usually does the same thing across all platforms when it comes electronics.. Learned something new... When I got my WJ it idled rough, and stalled then got a CEL once. Did the ignition trick and got a P0303 and P1294 (misfire on cylinder 3, target idle not reached).. Probably due to stale gas in the tank so I dumped in a can of Seafoam, filled the tank with Sunoco Plus, and no worries since. But once I get some time off from work new plugs, filters, LOF, coolant change, and some Seaform down the intake.

 

Not that strange my DAKOTA doesn't have the self test either ,only for the gauge cluster on that one to. Sooooo not that STRANGE, Another example is 1991-95 yj's self diagnostic only, so getting less strange.lol