The lever on the transfer case is just in-board of the front drive-line. Full forward is 4 Low, and one click back is neutral. (pretty sure). The nut on the shaft is a tad smaller then the 11/16 I had there...(that grips it well enough to move it).

Those vacuum lines are for the Vac-Disconnect on your right front axle, and the 4WD light. If your rear drive line is in, and your differential is not toast that's not your problem at the moment. (once when I let out the clutch on my 84 it didn't move. Looking underneath I saw the rear drive line turning....rear diff. was toast).

I guess I'd make sure the TC is not in neutral..first, then maybe go ahead and check those converter to torque-plate bolts. (gotta pull that dust cover on the bell-housing). I've seen shops do truly stupid stuff, I might rule out that someone just forgot to install them!

Hoping it's just your linkage....

 

Hey! If the transfer case it in neutral, park won't hold...

 

Sorry about the delay in responding. Had a cousin pass Friday so lots of unexpected out of town guest.
I did check linkage on TC and shifted it with wrench and made sure it was all the way forward in 2H. Did the same with drive shifter and all seems like its working normal. Also I did check if its holding in Park and It is.
Do you have to drive the jeep around to heat up the transmission oil or will that happen at idle speed while in park?? I ask because my engine had been running at idle for some time when I first checked trans oil level and the oil was stone cold.

 

Yea DFlintstone, I hope so to. My IQ drops about 50 points just saying the word "Transmission" but I've been reading my FSM and Ill be back at it tomorrow.

 

Is it possible to elimanate the NSS? Jeep was running perfect but the first thing I tested Saturday was NSS, which worked fine but now fuel pump isn't coming on... And yes I am starting to feel like the Little Dutch Boy. Plug one hole in the dam and another one pops up

 

Ok never mind... It started up fine this morning. ???

 

Sorry for your loss. Myself I don't know for sure, but I would think it would warm up at least some just because of the torque converter.

The fuel pump just runs a couple of seconds when you first turn the ign. on. Battery voltage goes in the front of that ceramic ballast resistor there by the air cleaner, and a few volts less goes out the rear to the pump. That resistor and it's connections are a common problem. It can be bypassed and eliminated, guess it was added just to quiet the pump some.

I'm not so sharp with automatics ether. Assuming the tyranny linkage is OK, (since it moves out of park), checking that someone didn't forget to install the converter/torque plate bolts is about all I have. Pulling the pan might be the next step?

 

Yea there must have been just a hiccup in the fuel pump because when I tried it this morning it fired right up.
Visually everything on the outside looks like its connected the right way, nothing broke, hanging, or missing but I am lost when it comes to transmission.
I'm going to start pulling those inspection plates and see if torque converter looks ok and work my way back from there.
Now I did have 1 or 2 vac lines on the motor that were clogged so maybe...???

 

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the AW-4 will go, shifting manually, with nothing hooked up.

The vac line from the inside of the throttle body, back to the MAP sensor up there on the firewall is supper important btw. ..I might just pull that one plate on the bottom of the bell-housing by the pan and check those...

 

Ok all. Checked what I could and the trans oil pump is deffinetly not pumping oil. The oil pump will not pump in Park so to check pump condition the Trans has to be in Nutural (I didn't know this). With engine running & gear in Nutural, if oil level on dip stick drops down to the Add/Full mark, the pump is working. If the oil level is unefected and does not drop then the oil pump is not pumping (FUBAR). Mine is not so we are off to the wonderful world of the Transmission Repair Shop. Again, Thanks everybody for y'all help in this!!

 

Handy tip there! ...I hope the trany shop doesent charge you $2000 to "fix it" if they only install the bolts!

Best of luck

 

I too did not read the whole first post however.... If the T/C was in nutrel one the you would be able to move the Jeep by pushing it, two when shifted back into park you would get a loud clicking sound as the park paw slipped until the trans internals stopped turning.

Now you said you bought this with a newly rebuilt motor not installed correct? If that is correct I'm going to say that when the torque converter was mated to the trans that it didn't fully seat onto the input shaft correctly thus no pump. It could be the pump, but I'm betting on an install error over a bad pump. If it is the pump I would put another trans in it before paying a shop to rebuilt the one that is there.

My $.02

 

If the converter was not all the way seated, could the housing still mate up? IIRC on a chevy it won't......

 

I'm also hoping I don't get charged $2,000 torque down some bolts and reinstall the trans. I was told worse case would be having to rebuild the trans and that would be $1,500. But if it comes to that I just have it replaced in stead of rebuilding.

Yep, that's right. The newly rebuilt motor was Not installed when I bought the jeep and it went right to my local auto shop to have the motor installed. I'm never happy when I have to do this because I've been burned in the past by a couple of those friendly neighborhood repair shop. That's why I've spent the past 2 years building my tool box and reading & doing everything I could get my hands on so I wouldn't have blindly trust that the work will be do right. but I don't have the heavy lifting equipment I need to move around an engine or transmission plus the driveway outside my shop is gravel so it's a safety thing too. Thats why I don't really know if the TC was mated correctly or if the TC was correctly bolted in the converter to begin with. I try to get auto shop recommendation from people I trust but the last shop that burned me (big time) came highly recommended by a few of those trusted folks. I've already got the KY on standby next to my wallet. Just hope I don't need it.

DFlintstone - I did read that if gears won't engage that the TCU can be tested by unplugging it. This puts the trans in manual mode separate from the TCU. If it shifts into gear and will drive then the TCU was the problem.

 

Got it, thanks. Well, the bolts are a long shot...just might be nice to know for sure. I myself forgot to tighten my lug nuts after removing the jack, at least once.

I have gravel as well. With ramps and a piece of cardboard, I'm all set. I think there are 4 little 1/2 inch bolts that hold that dust cover. In any case, let us know...Best of luck!

Oh> "or if the TC was correctly bolted in the converter to begin with"...The converter just slips onto the trans, then after the engine-trans are mated you go back and bolt the converter to the torque-plate.

It's not imposable to do it the other way around.