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Heater Control Valve Bypass

Old Oct 15, 2014 | 07:45 AM
  #1  
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Default Heater Control Valve Bypass

I know it's been asked/answered/and detailed a multitude of times.

But I find myself pretty thoroughly confused.

I removed the heater control valve, and in following the example I saw on other Cherokees, such as these:





Top heater nipple goes to T-stat, lower goes to water pump. As was from the vehicle I pulled the hoses from....

My confusion comes from when I look at coolant system diagrams like this one:







And the two hoses criss cross, causing the upper to go to the water pump, etc.

She's currently not running, or I'd just start her up and see which one is out-flowing.

Sorry for kicking a dead horse/the newbie question. Did search, saw several answers, and some users who had switched, and the layout matches the engine pictures I posted. But that just makes me more confused about why the manual has it laid out a different way.

Thanks for humoring me.

Last edited by Ratchet; Oct 15, 2014 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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The hoses are different sizes.
5/8 to 5/8
3/4 to 3/4
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
The hoses are different sizes.
5/8 to 5/8
3/4 to 3/4
So, ignore the diagram, and simply go 5/8 to 5/8, and 3/4 to 3/4?

I guess I'm still confused why each diagram I see of the 4.0 coolant system shows them criss-crossing, and in practice, they do not.

Last edited by Ratchet; Oct 15, 2014 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:34 AM
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There r several diagrams in the FSM that r incorrect. 5/8 to 5/8 and 3/4 to 3/4 is correct.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by djb383
There r several diagrams in the FSM that r incorrect. 5/8 to 5/8 and 3/4 to 3/4 is correct.
Ah.

Okay, that's what I'll do then. Just got confused between the manual, and a few other posts that indicated the return line should be the larger of the two hoses. For me, the supply line is.

Last edited by Ratchet; Oct 15, 2014 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratchet
Ah.

Okay, that's what I'll do then. Just got confused between the manual, and a few other posts that indicated the return line should be the larger of the two hoses. For me, the supply line is.
Yup, the heater core supply line is thicker. It's the top one coming off the t-stat housing. The return is the lower one and it attaches to a short piece of metal pipe to make accessing the clamp easier, I assume.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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A related question.
I have a 94 4.0 and am replacing the heater hoses.
Mine look like they are both exactly the same size.
Are they?
Thx
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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If u still have factory hoses, the large factory hose is 11/16", or only 1/16" larger than the small 5/8" factory hose. Most auto parts stores carry 3/4" (12/16") hose instead of 11/16". It's easy to see the smaller/larger heater core nipples at the firewall.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Stupid question:

What is the benifit of don't this?
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DigitalBman
Stupid question:

What is the benifit of don't this?
"don't this" or "doing this"???? If u mean "doing this", u'll understand why when yours starts leaking. The Factory eliminated the heater control valve on '97 up XJs.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 12:52 AM
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Oooh, mine is a 99. Makes sense then.

Yeah, sorry. Doing. Quick typing on the phone does not always yield the best result.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 01:08 AM
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Benefit is the heater valves leak a lot and one time I bought a brand new one and it leaked as soon as I started it up. I bypassed mine and I wish I still had a pic of how I did it
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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I'm now curious why there were used in the first place. Is it because the coolant flow to the heater core could be shut off completely when the **** was set to cold, rather than just relying on the blend door?
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by IJM
I'm now curious why there were used in the first place. Is it because the coolant flow to the heater core could be shut off completely when the **** was set to cold, rather than just relying on the blend door?
As well as I understand it; basically.

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/he...ubleshoot.html

Or thinking that having the coolant run through the heater core all the time might make the cabin too hot.

Sometimes, ideas are good in theory, sometimes not so great in practice. Or become a weak point later on. Or modern tech replaces it, etc.

Mine leaked, and I didn't feel like bothering with a mess of hoses for a valve I didn't deem necessary.

Last edited by Ratchet; Oct 17, 2014 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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On both my 88 MJ and my 00 XJ I replaced both lines with 5/8" heater hose. Used the 00 hose configuration for the 88 ... So just two hoses straight from front of motor to heater core.
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