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Heater/ AC switch wires

Old Feb 13, 2016 | 12:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Some folks have deleted the plastic connector altogether and went with new wire terminals only. See pic.


The terminals are Delphi/Packard Type 56, female, open barrel, .250" blade, 12 gauge wire, terminals. To properly install them you will need a special crimper, but you can be a little creative crimping the open barrel.


There are plenty vendors selling these terminals, including Evilbay.





Here's a pic showing which terminal is which, and what color wire goes where on the blower speed switch.





Recommend installing a new blower speed switch.
That's exactly what I was looking for, your the man! Thank you so much. I used to build wiring harnesses for airplanes and combine harvestors and coincidentally have the crimping tool.
Thanks for the fast reply, I have to fix it this weekend. And I already bought the new blower motor, resistor, and switch so I just have to install them now and it should be good as new.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 12:34 PM
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Default Heater/AC Switch plug

Can you find the Delphi/Packard terminals at any radio shack or elsewhere, or would it be easier to buy them online? I would like to have my heater fixed as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 01:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Kagroat
Can you find the Delphi/Packard terminals at any radio shack or elsewhere, or would it be easier to buy them online? I would like to have my heater fixed as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance

I got mine from Repair Connector .com. They're fairly quick delivering.


Suggest getting two 5 packs. Test pieces and all that...


http://www.repairconnector.com/12-ga...nector-5-pack/
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 01:43 PM
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You might try O'reilly Auto Parts.


I found some Ford Mini Block terminals I needed to make some test leads.


Made by BWD.


Look at the pic I show of the O'reilly page that shows the terminals. Look near the top of the page where it shows the path to the terminals. You might try searching via these.


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5015964


The image can be enlarged.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 03:50 PM
  #20  
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Default Heater/AC Switch plug

Originally Posted by CCKen
You might try O'reilly Auto Parts.


I found some Ford Mini Block terminals I needed to make some test leads.


Made by BWD.


Look at the pic I show of the O'reilly page that shows the terminals. Look near the top of the page where it shows the path to the terminals. You might try searching via these.


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5015964


The image can be enlarged.
Thanks for all the help. I decided to go with the Weatherproof disconnects, 1/4" Female connectors that have the heat shrink sleeve on them. Any insight to this? I think they should work fine. Part # 85256 at O'Reillys
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 03:53 PM
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Default Heater/AC Switch plug


Originally Posted by Kagroat
Thanks for all the help. I decided to go with the Weatherproof disconnects, 1/4" Female connectors that have the heat shrink sleeve on them. Any insight to this? I think they should work fine. Part # 85256 at O'Reillys


They seemed to fit the new switch nice and tight.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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There will be high heat buildup at the switch connections (note burned up connector) so keep this in mind when selecting terminals.


Your call mate.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 04:09 PM
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Default Heater/AC Switch plug

I thought the high heat was from the blower motor being old, so the wires have to draw more power to function the blower properly. By replacing the blower motor, resistor, and switch, won't this reduce that heat build up or will it get hot regardless? Maybe I should just order the connectors you told me about then? If I order those connecrors, would it be a good idea to solder them or will crimping them suffice? Thanks again.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Kagroat
I thought the high heat was from the blower motor being old, so the wires have to draw more power to function the blower properly. By replacing the blower motor, resistor, and switch, won't this reduce that heat build up or will it get hot regardless? Maybe I should just order the connectors you told me about then? If I order those connecrors, would it be a good idea to solder them or will crimping them suffice? Thanks again.

The only pin that really gets hot is the 'HI' pin.


It's the one that usually smokes the connector - over time.


All new components will help a lot, so maybe you shouldn't be concerned.


Crimp style terminals would be best in this application, not solder.


Personally, I would go with the un-insulated terminals, but it's your call. How long do you expect to keep your Jeep...the insulated terminals may outlast the Jeep.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 05:11 PM
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Default Heater/AC Switch plug

I plan on keeping the jeep until the motor blows, then I will rebuild it or drop a different engine in it. So I'm planning on keeping it for the long haul. It's my commuter for now, until I can get something cheap and then it will turn into my toy. It sits stock but I plan on lifting it and all that fun stuff.
But anyways, I ordered some of the type 56 connectors, I guess I will have to wait for next weekend to fix it.
I've waited this long, what's another week. Thanks for all of your help CC, it's more appreciated than you may know. I only asked about soldering because when I use to make harnesses we even did custom hit rod harnesses for an outfit in Texas, and the wires we crimped these connectors onto that go into the fuse block ALWAYS got soldered, but I guess this is a different application. I'm just really wanting to get the heater working mainly so I can do a full cooling system flush the proper way. I bought the jeep 2 months ago for $1500 with 167k on the HO motor and body. Very straight Jeep, just the heater and nasty coolant were my only 2 issues. Anyways, thanks for the help man.
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 05:51 PM
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Good luck mate, and enjoy your Jeep.
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