The e-fan is not typically replaced in a cooling system overhaul. I do suggest that you test the fan and make sure it works. It will turn on with A/C, or when temps reach around the temperatures you are describing (218 deg.)

OP, what is the maintenance history of the cooling system? Color of the coolant? Any brown sludge in the reservoir or under the radiator cap? Any use of stop-leak in the system will cause the coolant passages in the engine block to clog, and will cause a running-hot condition even after everything else has been replaced. The best way to deal with it is to simply pull the cylinder head, and clear the passages with a pipe cleaner. Then you'll have freshly scrubbed channels, and a new head gasket.

I also suggest the test for the head gasket. As someone else described, coolant bubbles are an indication of combustion gases leaking into the cooling system. BUT...if you only have bubbles and overflow after shutting down, it's most likely a bad radiator cap. Start with a flush and the cap and go from there.

 

Do a little bit of research on the champions here on the the forums. Its not a direct drop in. Seems like a very high percentage of people have to grind and cut away part of the radiator support framing that goes over the top, so they can twist the radiator cap. Luckily, that's a 2 min job if your comfortable cutting on your jeep

 

I decided to replace the radiator with a stock replacement also changed water pump, serpentine belt upper and lower radiator hoses and a 195 t stat again.

Did it all yesterday and every thing seems great I drove it for an hour yesterday with AC on and it never reached 210. Another good sign was that there was no oils in the old coolant
Thanks for every ones help!

 

good to hear! Did you burp the system properly, and run the heater for a while after it was up to operating temp? That makes sure to eliminate any air pockets in the coolant system after a fluid change.

 

If you replace your viscous fan clutch as well ($30), then you have a complete refreshed cooling system and should be good for a few years to come. Cooling system investment is money well spent.

Good work, mate.

 

I have a similar problem with my 1994 XJ Country (123k miles). I recently bought it and noticed on a long drive home that it got to 220 or so. First thing I did is replace much of the cooling system. Unfortunately, it still hovers just above 210 and on a highway drive Monday it got back up to 220. Here is a little history and what I did. Any advice welcome.

The coolant in the system was the orange stuff and looked dirty. I did the following (all new Napa parts):
Replaced radiator cap
Replaced water pump with a new (not refurbished) one
Replaced thermostat (195 degree and added a 1/8" vent hole at top)
Replaced thermostat housing
Replaced clutch fan
Installed a flush kit and did a reverse flush until water came out clean.
Replaced water temperature sensor
Replaced with green 50/50 pre-mix coolant.
Did NOT replace radiator because it looked stock, but in very good shape (no bent fins, no leaking, no crud in the fins, etc).
Verified that the heater core is not leaking (and was part of reverse flush)

Help/suggestions welcome.

 

The orange Dex-Cool is known to get clumpy when added to the green antifreeze. This can clog not just the radiator but passages in the engine block.
Also, the block is cast iron and will shed rust particles that clog the radiator.
I would replace the radiator as well and back flush the heater core.

 

and flush the entire engine. When Dex-Cool gets mixed and clumps, it basically becomes gel and can stick in various spots inside the block, heater core and radiator. All should be flushed several times, and then plan on doing it again after a few months to get out any residual material. I hate that stuff.

 

Thanks for the advice. I agree that the radiator should be replaced. I did a very low-tech heat test (my hands) and it seems that the bottom of the radiator is cooler than the top. Anyway, it looks like the original one and I can imagine that it has lost some capacity due to sediment build up. Finally, it is the ONLY think that I have not already changed out.

Interestingly I did a back flush until the water came out clean but I guess this can still leave some clogs/build-up in the radiator that reduce overall flow/capacity. I should have this done by end of week or this weekend at the latest.

 

yep, cooling systems can store gunk / debris even after flushing. Only way to get rid of most of it is with a high pressure flushing system, which most of the time means taking to a shop with the right power equipment. But cleaning and regular flushing annually can get rid of most of it.

 

Chemical flushes are a good option as they will dissolve rust and lime deposits. Both of which build up from people not changing the coolant when they should and or using tap water mixed with the coolant. Engine coolant has antirust additives that break down over time and stop working which is why coolant has a change interval.

 

plus as you mentioned, the tap water is a no no, as its filled with all sorts of minerals / etc. that aren't good for a cooling system. Better to use distilled bottled water (costs a few bucks more, but its worth it)

 

As it turns out, the radiator had slot flow... probably gunk at the bottom causing overall heating. Replaced the radiator and she is running as expected... at or near the 210 mark in traffic and on the highway.

Thanks for all the feedback gents!

 

I would suggest doing a flush in a month or so, to make sure any other gunk that is still in the system is removed.

 

Does anyone know the correct direction for water pump on a 1997XJ?
If i installed the wrong direction water pump what would happen? Would I over heat or run warm? Thanx!