Tripled checked all the wires, everything looks good. Also the switch has too many clicks. Shouldn't it just have one click yo the left to turn on the dome light?

 

Sounds like it is time to replace it with OEM.

 

Yes, one click.

 

Are you sure rods seated properly into switch ?

 

Yeah, I wondered the same thing. Also, IIRC, you turn the **** to the right to turn on the dome light.

The rod has to click into place. It can be a little difficult to get it to do that. Something like a little Vaseline helps to get past the keeper.

 

I'm not sure what the rod is and the switch comes with a packet of Vaseline. I wondered what that was for. Please specifically tell me what the rod is, in plain terms. I've been riding around like this, wiggling the switch to get the dash and headlights to come on at the same time.

 

Are you sure that's Vaseline? It's probably dielectric grease for protecting the contacts from corrosion.

 

Okay, I'll say it....there is much innuendo here, LOL

 

Try pulling out the headlight switch **** while it is still in the dash. If it comes out in your hand, without using the release button and not with much effort, it was not seated properly--not in all the way--into the switch body.

The **** is attached to the metal shaft that goes into and engages into the switch body that you just replaced.

The little tube of grease it came with should have been used on the male terminals on the switch body before you plugged the harness body into it. The grease helps keep corrosion from forming on the contacts, which would break the electrical continuity. That would keep something from working.

The grease should also be applied to the metal shaft to help it slide in past the keeper (which is what pushing the button releases). Until it clicks into place past the keeper, the **** & shaft is not fully seated.

Keep the innuendo and jokes down to a minimum here, guys. There's just no other way to explain this.

 

Ugh, that switch was so difficult to put in place. I should've used that grease! The **** is fine. I positioned it correctly but I will add the grease but I won't be getting back to the switch until it warms up. It's 27 degrees here.

 

In the future I recommend removing the upper panel to replace the switch and connector, removing the lower panel just doesn't provide enough room to access. The wires needed to be tightened, now the switch is fine. Hooray! Thanks guys!

 

Part of my post #30:

"The upper bezel and probably the instrument cluster will have to come out in order to have a little working room. It is awkward to work in that area."

 

I looked over the thread, missed that, I won't forget again!