Okay to start I just bought this jeep after selling my Comanche its a 91 Cherokee bone stock with 241k miles on it head gasket went on it the day I bought it just wanting some tips on changing It I have all the parts taking this task on tonight

 

Aside from take your time, be organized and mark everything you disconnect... nope.

I like to take a box top, draw a mock up of the cylinder head, pop a hole for each bolt/item removed in it's relation to the actual cylinder head versus just throwing everything in a pile and wondering who's who and what's what when and where does it go when it's time to put her all back together.

And of course, be sure to torque the head down by starting center bolts first and criss cross working your way outward.

Not sure about Jeeps, but the GMs and Fords I've done heads on, it's recommended and a good practice to use new head bolts.

 

That's some awesome ideas!

 

The box top idea is genius!

 

Yes use the box top to know what bolt goes where.

I also used new head gasket bolts... Haynes suggested this as well. Also, pop for a Fel Pro HD gasket... It's not hard just take your time.

The head is heavy as all hell. Get a buddy for help.

 

Weight shouldn't be an issue I loaded a v8 block into the bed of my truck alone as far as gaskets go we got the top one sold at car quest as I only pay cost there

 

I want to see a video of that!

 

The stock head bolts may be reused one time. If unsure about them ever being reused, buy new ones.

 

I would anyway, they're cheap, pre sealed and chances are the old bolt threads are streched.

 

Well, than there's my last little tid bit of advice, 2 beers, one prior to the heave, and one for after the organ is successfuly transfered to the operating table.

 

Good deal then. If you dont already have one a good repair manual is very helpful in having all the torque specs and step by step w/pics on how to getthe job done.

 

Rear drivers side head bolt is kind of pain. Head bolts take a 12pt 13mm? Deep well socket get that before hand. Clean your push rods our with pipe cleaners. Get assembly lube for rockers. Inch pound torque wrench. Label all wires. Use jack to get exhaust lined back up. Take your time. I did mine in a day and a half going slow. Head weighs about 80lbs! Shop vac any crud that falls into the cylinders.

 

I had a hell of time finding a 12pt deep well socket to clear those extended studs. Finally used a Kobalt one from Lowes and had to file out the center to clear those studs.

Yes that one in the back is a PITA to get to.. put the socket on first then attach the ratchet.

Head weighs 80lbs +. I stood on wheel cribs to get a good stance to lift it off.

 

I got my socket from advance it was around $10. Get thread sealant too, waterproof kind the front head bolt goes into the water jacket and needs to be sealed.

Might as well do a new thermostat, housing, waterpump, belt and tensioner while your there : )

 

The #11 cylinder head screw (driver's side front) will seal neatly with plumber's PTFE "pipe dope" (I use Harvey's brand from OSH.) Note the reduced torque on that screw.

I find it easier to remove the head & manifolds as an assembly and service the manifold gasket on the bench - but I'm a good-sized fella (6'3", 280#, built like a ape. Having an engine crane or a helper won't go amiss, tho.) Search elsewhere for my tips on servicing that gasket.

I have also found it useful to torque the cylinder head screws in four stages, which gives a much more even crush of the head gasket. 25-50-75-final lb-ft ("final" being 110 lb-ft, except for the aforementioned #11 at 100 lb-ft.)

I've detailed tips on this job a number of times on various boards - I'm sure I've done it here once or twice as well. Search around, it's easier to do than you think.