Hey, anyone know where I can get a 1/2 drive 1/2" 12pt deep well socket for working on the head bolts? I cannot find one that will fit over the upper threads of the bolt head. I have tried a craftsman deep well, home depot, and harbor freight. The only one I was able to get to work was a 3/8 drive 1/2" socket with a reducer which doesn't fit under bolt #14 due to the firewall clearance.

 

I might see if Napa can order it if they don't stock it. Overnight now would mean Monday or Tuesday. I've been happy with their Evercraft tools. Lifetime warranty, and there are Napa's everywhere. Is that called "inverted torx?" That's messed up that they did that.

Edit. Duh, 12 PT, misread that.

 

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I used the Kobalt 1/2" drive, 1/2" hex /12 point, deep socket. From Lowes.


The only one I found that's suitable.


I did, however, have to drill out the center to clear the stud end of the bolt using a 7/16" drill bit. See pic.



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Tip on the left rear Bolt:


You can cut off the threaded end of this bolt so you can use a shallow socket on it. Makes life easier.





Use an aftermarket braided bonding strap to replace the one that normally attached to this bolt. From O'reilly Auto Parts - and other stores.



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There ya go didnt catch the stud part. Learn something new every day.

 

I found a 1/2" - 1/2" 12pt deep well at a local Sears that has a real tool department.....although the one Ken posted from Lowes looks like it is a little shorter, therefore it would be better.

 

have not been there,,yet, but ill get that socket,AND i already cut out 4 inches of that firewall flat lip that blocks the rear bolt with a cut off wheel,, gone!
ill be ready.

oh, do you reuse the bolts?. i would think so.

 

I would go new ARP studs even better.. But alot have not.

 

One time reuse, unless the heads are painted white then, no. They have already been used twice.

 

With my shopping around for a socket, I found that most do not have splines that go deep enough. The Kobalt does.

 

Bad idea. That's a structural lip.


Ken's method is the best approach.

 

[QUOTE=CCKen;3375834]I used the Kobalt 1/2" drive, 1/2" hex /12 point, deep socket. From Lowes.


The only one I found that's suitable.


I did, however, have to drill out the center to clear the stud end of the bolt using a 7/16" drill bit. See pic.




Thanks for the suggestion, this worked great for me. I was able to widen it with 7/16" drill bit on my drill press. Fits perfectly now!

 

I have removed several 4.0 heads and I use that kobalt one from Lowes. For me, I had barely enough room to get the socket onto that PITA bolt/stud under the firewall lip. I just crack it and then I can use my fingers to get it loose. Loosen it all the way and then take it out when the head comes out. If you are doing this in place, you can then put the bolt into the head before you put the head on. Use some tape or rubber hose around it to hold it up as you put the head in. Then once the head is in place, remove the tape and you're good to go.

 

haha! ill put that on my worry list, on the bottom of page 12!!

 

It's relatively easy to drop the motor down off the mounts to get clearance and it's free.