Place the screwdriver. (Actually it don't have to be a screwdriver, it can be anything stout in a length)

And the screwdriver being lodged between those two bolts will hold the pulley in place

Yep, I get what you're saying - but since i'm at work im having a hard time understanding what the "item" will lodge against when between the screws, but i'll check it out when im at the car in the morning!

There won't be anything lodging against anything. There's three threaded holes on the pulley (for the pulley remover to bolt on) and u will be using two of them.

Got that balancer off yet? This might be an option for you..
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-e...nch-68099.html

They come in handy a lot!

Not yet! Tomorrow i'll be hitting the post with some pictures if I haven't gotten the bolt off!

But an impact gun isn't an option, I don't have any outlets in my garage (not my own) so i'll get out my breaker bar instead I guess. Thanks for the tip though!

Just wanted to let you guys know, I got it out!

Had to jam a breaker bar against the block to stop it from turning and then the bolt (and washer) broke free....I bet it hasn't been changed before in this jeeps lifetime!

Is there any other method to go about installing the new balancer without the proper tool? Seems like ebay (europe) and stores here in Sweden don't have the tool for cheap like the US does.

Also, I got a new key with the new balancer, does that need changing or can i just keep the old one in place?

Putting in a new key won't go amiss.

The "proper tool" may be improvised using 1/2"-13 scerws or threaded rod (threaded rod preferred,) and a nut (threaded rod) and a stack of flat washers or fender washers (lightly greased.)

Before installation, paint the inside of the hub and the outside of the crankshaft nose with never-seez, it makes the job SO much easier next time!

Great! Anything special that needs to be considered when putting in a new key? Hm, well perhaps it's possible to use the same tool for the installation except fitting it with a washer and nut right? Hm, will have to check that out...I'm guessing the rod will be threaded into the crankshaft nose then the balancer and a washer and nut..then just spin the nut which pushes the balancer onto the crank - right?

That's right. But I m pretty sure it's 1/2-20

Not the same tool - unless the center rod is 1/2"-20, and the foot is removable. (Thanks for the catch, XJWonders.)

But, you're also correct - the threaded rod would go into the crankshaft nose, the damper goes on (making sure the keyways are aligned,) and the washers dropped onto the threaded rod and the nut run down. I find about 4" or so of rod will usually do.

A more permanent version may be made by cutting 4.5-5" of threaded rod, dressing the cuts, and putting a nut on. Then the nut is soldered, brazed, or pinned in place - giving you a wrenching surface (I pinned mine.)