Thanks Hurley. Did you order this part online and if so where did you find it?

Ive been looking at all of the usual companies I order from- I cannot locate this thing by either part number or part name!

 

Thanks for the thout
I tryed all the tricks that you all have sed.NO go gages the only thing i havent tryed is replacing harnest or cluster!
IT IS REALY STARING TOO @#$%& ME OFF!!
and like most . I dont have alout to spend! like to find and fix myself.
not nowing how mutch gas i have is the bigest bummer.

forgive me slopy post trying to do this on lunch.

 

I just went to the nearest Jeep/Chrystler dealer, and they had it in stock. I doubt anybody other than Chrystler is going to carry the part. Hope you find it and get it fixed.

Dan

 

I know I am bumping a really old thread here.....


I am having the same exact problem described in post #1, 2000 XJ, cleaned all grounds, tightened down all connectors under the dash with bolts going through them, all fuses are good, cleaned pins on the back of the gauge cluster, dielectric grease on the gauge cluster pins, threw a new CPS at it, threw a low mileage/working gauge cluster at it...still getting the NO BUS message, and dead gauges. everything works, except the gauges (gas, tach, speedo, oil pres, water temp)


the jeep runs fine, its just annoying having no gauges, and not knowing my fuel level.


anyways...


I found the updated connector for under $7


my question is...do I replace both connectors (buy two updated connectors) or do I just need to replace one of the two plugs behind the cluster?


if only one needs to be replaced...which one?

 

Anyone else have this problem? Anyone else fix this problem?

 

When you pull the instrument cluster, the connector you want to change is the one on your right (C2). C2 carries the data to/from the instrument cluster and the CCD Bus. The CCD Bus provides data to the instrument cluster where a microprocessor in the cluster drives the instruments.

Do this Instrument Cluster Actuator Test to see if your cluster is working:

Instrument Cluster Actuator Test

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.

(2) Depress the trip odometer reset button.

(3) While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.

(4) Release the trip odometer reset button.

(5) The gauges should cycle through their ranges, stopping at intermediate readings, going up and going down, at two second intervals. The indicator lamps should cycle on and off.

(6) The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.

Edit: Also, check fuse F9 in the Junction Block (passenger footwell fuse panel).

 

Thank you.

I did the cluster actuator test. My cluster works.

I will check the #9 fuse in the cabin by the passenger foot well tomorrow after work. Its freezing outside, il stop by my family's heated garage after work tomorrow.

Anything else i can do? Im waiting on the repair plug to show up. Should be here this week.

 

What grounds did you clean?

Did you follow any guidance here on the forum as to what grounds to clean?

Bad grounds in the engine bay have caused NO BUS situations before.

 

I just checked every fuse in the engine bay, and every fuse in the cabin. All fuses are good.

I cleaned:

The negative battery terminal to fender ground (cleaned the terminal, and the ground on the fender)
The engine to firewall ground near valve cover (cleaned the firewall side of the ground)
There are a few grounds near the ECM i cleaned ( come out of the harness to the fender)
I also cleaned up the areas of the ECM where the screws go through into the fender, and into the steel bracket, I also cleaned the sheet metal where the screw goes through, and the brackets (basically all contact points are fresh bare metal)

When I say cleaned, I hit all mating surfaces of bolts/screws with a wire wheel, all ring terminals with a small metal file, and all sheet metal with a larger metal file. All contact points are rust free, and bare metal.


I found your ground cleaning DIY on NAXJA. I still have to clean grounds 101 and 102.

Any other ideas on what to look for?

 

Good work.

G101 is the important one.

 

Where are you getting this for 11$. The people at the jeep dealer told me it was going to be 40$ for one. I would like to replace both. But for 80$......just for the little harnesses.......