Why do I need to use an air lift tool, I feel like bleeding coolant systems is something people have been doing for a very long time without problems... Not saying it isn't a good idea, it's probably a great one. Just wondering why my cooling system is different from the thousands that you just fill and bleed and are ok. I have a 1972 Dodge Demon and I've never had problems filling and bleeding without one and countless other experiences. Also, is it a rentable tool?

Also, this doesn't really explain the fact that the overflow bottle fills up almost full, why would it push so much coolant out of the system if there were air in it? Does that make sense? Just need somebody to explain that one to me...

 

Hiya guys..the kit that is referred to is a sold by Snap-on, Matco...probably others, but I've never seen it in a store. Its expensive, and I know this because I use one. The liquid in it turns from blue to green if there are exhaust gases in the coolant. In any event. If the hoses get rock hard almost immediately, thats a sign of a blown head gasket. Pull every plug, see if any of them look like they've been steam cleaned, or have a color to them, usually green. Thats a sign of a head gasket problem. Take a compression test. If 2 adjacent cyliders have low compression....thats definately a head gasket. Oh and by the way, if you have a leak on your intake manifold....you can change everything in the cooling system and your still going to run hotter then normal, because that cylinder with the intake leak is going to run LEAN....and lean is hot. Take some brake clean, the non flammable kind, and spray every gasketed surface while its running. ANY change in idle, indicates a leak...As far as burping air constantly, that means that there is a leak in the cooling system. And that doesn't mean that you can see it.. Pull all the hoses, and clean the insides of them, and what they attach to, especially the water pump. Thats aluminum, and when you take the hose off you will notice a white powdery dust on it. Thats oxidation. Aluminum don't rot, it oxydizes. It will cause a bad seal. Use screw type clamps, the factory ones are a bi metal spring type that supposedly gets tighter as they heat up. I don't like them after a few years. In any event, if all thats good..your going to have to pressure test the system. Any good shop will have what you need and you can ask them to do it for you.....I know its long winded...but its what I do for a living....hope it helps...

 

i was just suggesting an airlift cause its easy and you know theres no air in the system, autozone rents out a lot of tools, im not sure if they rent this one though. if you lived closer id let you use mine....for a fee

 

when the aux fan stops is your ac compressor still engaged

 

Oh and by the way....when I do waterpumps, radiators, thermostats, hoses, or open the system in any way shape or form, the first thing I do is before I start the car to bleed it, is turn on the heat IMMEDIATLY. If you don't any air trapped in the heating system will eventually become a problem later. I do with every car I've ever done, especially jeeps....

 

So Mycherokee96, can air getting sucked into the system elsewhere lead to the overflow bottle not getting drawn from and only fed coolant? Your post makes sense and is helpful, just wondering if this is something that you see with similar problems.

 

open systems expel the air into over flo bottle then when more coolant is needed it draws it from the bottle ,closed systems are more likely to get air pockets because they dont vent

 

when your aux fan stop is your ac compressor still engaged???????????????

 

this cannot happen unless you have a exhaust leaking into colling system this will not make the cooling fan stop!!!!!!!

 

Yes it can....if it takes less vacuum to pull the air in, then it does the coolant from the tank, guess which one wins? Physics....really sux don't it?

 

ytownxj?

 

the only way a cooling system will suck air thru the coolant bottle is if theres no water in it

 

To freegdr, not sure if it is engaged, I'd have to check on that. Never thought to look for that. What would that affect?

 

I have a 90 and when I initially flushed and refilled my coolant system the normal way,I too had a vehicle that was running up to 260 quick and the fluid level never got lower in the reservoir.

Atrick a friend told me is to ensure you bleed the system well,is to:

Drain the system

Take off the T'stat Housing(Youll need to loosen your Serpentine belt at the Power Steering Pump to allow enough slack to get at the bottom Tstat bolt)

Remove the Tstat and drill a small bypass hole(s) in the T-stat flange (I drilled 4 of them,1 at 12 oclock,1 at 3,one at 6,and one at 9,I know OVERKILL)

Reinstall the T-stat and housing

Do not reinstall the upper radiator hose(yet)

Fill the system with coolant from the T-stat housing with a funnel(it takes a bit,and is a slow process) this will ensure you dont get any air pockets when you fire the vehicle up.


Im not saying this is any kind of Gospel,it was suggested to me and it worked well.

 

if your ac compressor is still engaged when the fan stops and you rplaced all the parts you stated sound like the fan is getting hot and stopping creating you issue you should run the xj untill the fan stops the check the plug to it with a test light if no current is there you got a bad coolant switch or relay if theres current fans taking a crap