Does this mean your fuel gauge is working properly now? Of all the work you did, what do you think you did to fix it.

 

No, sorry, gas gauge still isn't working. I've had to work the last few das and haven't had a chace to do more checking on it. Tomorrow, after the kids are at school, I'm gonna start with checking the cps connection. I SWEAR that when I was changing it, at one point, the fuel gauge worked. Even if only for a minute. I had the battery cables on and off multiple times and when I finally got it running, now it doesn't move. Even on start up. Again, it passed the key/odo button test.
I'll post my progress tomorrow morning.
Again, the fuel unit is actually INSIDE the tank? Or mounted somewhere?

 

It's on the side of the fuel pump module. See pic. Pic is of the Airtex pump but all the pump modules for your Jeep will look like this. The float you see is connected to a variable resistor wiper on the fuel level sending unit.

 

I have heard of one other case where the CPS caused fuel gauge problems. Maybe you did see the gauge work when you changed your CPS. With the key to RUN, engine off, try wiggling the wires that come out of the CPS and the wire harness that comes out of the rear of the fuel injector wiring manifold, and the wire harness just above there and against the firewall. See if the fuel gauge responds...a helper watching the gauge would help.

 

Is your gauge completely dead, or reading intermittently? Mine will be fine if I have more than half a tank. Once it reaches half, it randomly jumps to E and F, and will go back to an incorrect reading.

 

Currently, just dead. I topped it off the other day. I drove 250 miles {work} since then, and this morning, Check Engine light came on when I was driving to work. Odo read 252 miles.

 

Finally had a day off, went to oreily, had the code read...

P0108 map sensor voltage too high.

P0132 O2 sensor 1 - circuit high voltage.

P0463 Fuel level sensor 1 circuit high.

P0320 no crank reference signal at PCM.

Crank is brand new. Are these signal's related.
Please remember this jeep was horribly maintained.
Thx for any advice.

If I have to change the fuel pump/set up, how extensive is it?
In michigan all underbodies/fuel lines rust.
Should I take it to a shop?

 

Do you mean that your crank position sensor is new? Or the crank itself? Seems strange that voltage would be running high on multiple sensors like that at once--makes me wonder if you have some deeper electrical issue, or maybe even PCM issues. How is your jeep running?

As far as the fuel pump, it's a pretty straight-forward job. PB Blast the heck out of the bolts holding up the two straps on your tank, make sure the tank is as empty as you can get it and have a jack handy or a helper and undo the straps, lower tank and undo the fuel lines. It's helpful to have a quick-disconnect toolset for this but I've heard of people doing it with a flathead screwdriver. Use a flathead and a hammer (carefully) to remove the lock ring around the module, and plug the new stuff in and do it all backwards. If you have rust issues like I do, you'll want to replace the hard fuel line while you have the tank out if it's rusty.. Mine is rusty too and I will be tackling this job once I get some other stuff finished. If you're not ambitious, mechanically inclined or comfortable working on your jeep, take it to a reputable shop and get your checkbook ready.

 

The CPS is new. I got one from oreily, the jeep started, andran for 10 mins, then wouldn't restart. I went and got an OEM, and it still did't start. I started wiggling wires, and the plug to the coil wasn't seated correctly, and it started. After that, it's started just fine. Then, while driving, it lurches and drags intermittantly, the Check Engine light came on, I got the codes, and here you are. Seems like a whole lotta codes to be popping up at once. Wondered if it was a computer issue and not a pump issue. Of course, my gas gauge still doesn't work...

How hard is it to change the pump on a 98?
Can I do it without dropping the tank?

 

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See my post above yours...you have to drop the tank on the 98 to do it. Either that or strategically cut an access hole in your cargo area. I don't think you want to do that.

 

Thank you all VERY much for helping me out on this one. Gonna tackle it tomorrow. I'll post to let you know how it went.

 

What pump are you going with? Good luck

 

My "Pockets are Empty" so I'll go with the atrix. From autozone. I just took the tank off. It's a michigan car. Took an hour or two, even with cutting. I sliced the rubber lines from the gas cap with a razor, cut the Jbolts from the body to the straps with a sawzall, cut the plastic gas line and wiring harness with some tinsnips, and unplugged the air return line with some muscle {at the tank}.
The plastic o-ring on the tank foughtme, but a hammer and chisel in a circular motion unscrewed it. When I pulled out the module, the leveler was lying in the bottom of the tank. The wires broke also.

 

So, I called autozone, the tank fuel lines are generic from the gas fill to the tank. The gas line from the pump to the steel line is generic length plastic. Unfortunately, the Jbolts are 30$ each from the dealer. They were corroded beyond comprehension, so there really wasn't a choice. They ordered them in for tomorrow. Hopefully by Sunday, it'll all be back together.
Only question I have... do the wires/harness I cut come with the fuel pump unit? Or do those plug onto the top of it somehow? I'll figure it out when I get one tomorrow I'm sure, but was just wondering, in case I need to order another.
Thanks for the info.