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Fuel Pump Test?

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
No... thats not what I said at all... you should at least learn how to read before posting...

Ok you said they almost never go bad unless you break them. Do you even know what a resistor does? If you want to give someone bad advice go ahead.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
No... thats not what I said at all... you should at least learn how to read before posting...
Here is a definition of what a ballast resistor does maybe you will learn something.

Under any operating condition, except wide open throttle, the fuel pump gets voltage from the fuel pump relay via the fuel pump ballast resistor. When the vehicle is under a wide open throttle condition, the ballast bypass relay gets grounded (ENERGIZED) by the engine controller. When the ballast bypass relay gets ENERGIZED, voltage bypasses the fuel pump ballast resistor and full system voltage is applied to the fuel pump.

Voltage to the ballast bypass relay is supplied through the fuel pump relay. The ballast bypass relay is located on a bracket connected to the power distribution center.

And this is for a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, I think you should read a little more on troubleshooting and quit downloading generic charts.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ezab
Here is a definition of what a ballast resistor does maybe you will learn something.

Under any operating condition, except wide open throttle, the fuel pump gets voltage from the fuel pump relay via the fuel pump ballast resistor. When the vehicle is under a wide open throttle condition, the ballast bypass relay gets grounded (ENERGIZED) by the engine controller. When the ballast bypass relay gets ENERGIZED, voltage bypasses the fuel pump ballast resistor and full system voltage is applied to the fuel pump.

Voltage to the ballast bypass relay is supplied through the fuel pump relay. The ballast bypass relay is located on a bracket connected to the power distribution center.

And this is for a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, I think you should read a little more on troubleshooting and quit downloading generic charts.
do you feel smarter now?

im glad you can copy and paste...

http://answers.edmunds.com/question-...deas-9399.aspx

now that we both know some random mechanics idea of a ballast resistor i still dont know how this makes what i said false... i said they rarely go bad unless you break them... aka stepping on them... dropping a tool on them... and thats a true statement... not sure why you even have a problem with it? maybe because i didnt copy and past it?
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
I not going to argue with him. He went from saying there wasn't a Ballast Resistor for the fuel pump to saying they never go bad unless you step on them or break them. He obviously doesn't even know what a resistor does or why they fail.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #21  
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ya ok...
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
ya ok...
So do you tell people who have bad blower motor resistors to stop breaking or to stop dropping tools on them? I would say resistor fail from heat much more often than getting stepped on.
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
i have never seen a balace resistor go bad... and from what ive read about trouble shooting the ignition system it part of that system... never heard or read of it having anything to do with the fuel pump except for what you just showed me... all it is is a resistor anyway and they almost never go bad unless you break it...

heres what i said again... i said "ive never heard or read of it having anything to do with the fuel pump" i never heard or read being the key words... i never said it didnt... again... reading is believing...
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ezab
So do you tell people who have bad blower motor resistors to stop breaking or to stop dropping tools on them? I would say resistor fail from heat much more often than getting stepped on.

no blower motor resistors fail because the blower motor itself has gone bad... you cant step on a blower motor resistor its under the dash... i still dont know where your going with any of this...
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
no blower motor resistors fail because the blower motor itself has gone bad... you cant step on a blower motor resistor its under the dash... i still dont know where your going with any of this...
Sorry to break this to you but you are wrong there too.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:31 AM
  #26  
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Well then in that case all my training at Nissan is wrong... I've tried replacing blower motor resistors when a speed channel gets burnt out... and not change the motor... took a matter of minutes to burn it right back up... swapped the motor and good to go... I'm almost positive all the parts companies recommend replacing the blowers motor at the same time as the resistors...

Sorry with all due respect I believe Nissan's training over people I don't know... I'm sure there are plenty of threads on Google that can be found supporting what I said... unfortunately I'm stuck in bed on my phone with a bucket beside me along with a bottle of nasty pink stuff... makes it alittle difficult to research...
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:52 AM
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You must be right. I just didn't know that all the automakers switched from using fuses to resistors. So the fuse that would blow if the blower motor was drawing to many amps has been replaced by a resistor? You are not making any sense.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #28  
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there is no fuse between the resistor and blower motor... motor bearings go out... amperage rises to keep trying to spin the motor that no longer wants to be spun at the proper speed selected... which in turn over heats the resistor (which u stated as well and is true)... this is why it kills one speed... generally the low speed or high speed because they are used the most... if you swap and keep running at one of the middle speeds itll take that one out eventually as well... its not something that happens in running for only 5 minutes... its over a course of time... and alot of the time when one goes out itll fuse to another on the circuit board and take it out at the same time... i googled "why blower resistors go bad" and all supported what ive said pretty much... most burn up alot of resistors and then finally replaced the motor and havent had a problem sense...
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 09:22 AM
  #29  
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Resistors generate heat by themselves, that is what they do, the dissipate heat. There is a fuse between your battery and blower motor, if the blower motor was drawing too many amps the fuse would blow. You should really look at a wiring diagram before you say things. This started off as an easy fuel pump test question and then you start arguing about things you have no knowledge of. You never mentioned checking for power instead you mentioned pulling off the fuel line and bumping the starter which is also not necessary because it is an electric pump not mechanical. If you paid Nissan to teach you, you should try and get your money back.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 09:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ezab
Resistors generate heat by themselves, that is what they do, the dissipate heat. There is a fuse between your battery and blower motor, if the blower motor was drawing too many amps the fuse would blow. You should really look at a wiring diagram before you say things. This started off as an easy fuel pump test question and then you start arguing about things you have no knowledge of. You never mentioned checking for power instead you mentioned pulling off the fuel line and bumping the starter which is also not necessary because it is an electric pump not mechanical. If you paid Nissan to teach you, you should try and get your money back.

you the one that keep bouncing around... now your changing the argument to pulling the fuel line off... if you pull the line off the fuel rail and turn the key on it primes the ELECTRIC pump but it only runs for about 3 seconds... if you bump the starter and not start it the pump will run for around 30 seconds... giving plenty of time for the fuel to get back up to the engine bay... if the pump has power getting to it and is working then guess what? fuel comes out of the line by the fuel rail... a mechanical pump it has to be running in order to pump fuel to the carb (since most mechanical pumps were used in the days of carbs)... or at least turning the motor over with the starter... so i have no idea why you bring up a mechanical pump at all...

im all about arguing out problems or different thoughts but this is starting to become a waste of time...
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