fuel pump/gauge question
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
fuel pump/gauge question
I replaced the fuel pump on my 90 xj last night, played hell with it trying to get it to seat in the hole. Now, my gas gauge is on E and wont move. My question is, do you guys think the new float is stuck on something inside, or totally screwed. Should i try and fix it, or wait a bit and take it back. Came with a lifetime warranty. The reason i ask, first, not knowing your gas level sucks, and second, in a couple weeks a buddy and i are going to be doing a bunch of work on it. So should i just wait ill then to mess with it?
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I've had trouble with my 90 as well. Filled full it will stay on empty until I burn enough for it to slosh around in the tank. Then it goes to full, and works until I get to around 1/2, where it sticks on 1/4. Then when I go below 1/4 it will work again. I removed it, moved the float by hand and watched the gauge work fine, put it back and it still does the same thing!
Then yesterday I saw this post>
Originally Posted by fragmental
The reason the old pump wouldn't sit flat is that there is a rubber grommet that fits on the end of the pump assembly and goes into a (hole?) in the bottom of the fuel tank. I couldn't see this because I hadn't fully dropped the tank. I finally dropped the tank and could see this pretty clearly.
Thank-you! That should darn near be a "sticky". I had figured out there HAD to be something, I just couldn't nail down what it was. I put it out to the forum a couple of times..... ended up "swinging at smoke" (again). Much thanks again for that crucial bit of info!
Then yesterday I saw this post>
Originally Posted by fragmental
The reason the old pump wouldn't sit flat is that there is a rubber grommet that fits on the end of the pump assembly and goes into a (hole?) in the bottom of the fuel tank. I couldn't see this because I hadn't fully dropped the tank. I finally dropped the tank and could see this pretty clearly.
Thank-you! That should darn near be a "sticky". I had figured out there HAD to be something, I just couldn't nail down what it was. I put it out to the forum a couple of times..... ended up "swinging at smoke" (again). Much thanks again for that crucial bit of info!
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Year: 90,84
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Well, I'm not saying yours will do the same. If it's full you need to run it down anyway before you can take another shot at it. 150 miles should do it!
Btw you should click on the link in my signature. Cruisers tips are right on-top. Highly recommended!
Btw you should click on the link in my signature. Cruisers tips are right on-top. Highly recommended!
Last edited by DFlintstone; 06-07-2014 at 07:24 PM.
#5
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Year: 1990
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I hear ya, just saying its something to look for when i pull ot back out. Thanks for the heads up in crusiers tips. Ive got it bookmarked on my phone actually lol
#6
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You probably have it in wrong. I had the same issue-it won't get better on it's own. Take it back out, make sure the float arm is moving in the direction that floats upwards with more fuel in tank.
Here's a good link:
http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/fuel-pump.html
Here's a good link:
http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/fuel-pump.html
Last edited by 67 GMC; 06-08-2014 at 10:18 AM.
#7
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Year: 90,84
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See on #19, he just says "install"? I need to get back at mine, (getten under 1/2 tank). I gotta see if I can feel something fit in a socket in there. I'm suspicious there is a baffle in there that can interfere with the float if it aint "just so"
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#8
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Yeah-Just like the Haynes manual "installation is the reverse of removal"!! I hate when I see that.
It's a lot easier if you drop the tank. I know I've done it with the tank on but at some point, you get really mad trying to get it in the right spot, the o-ring one and not slipping off, the tabs on the lock ring lined up etc etc. When it's off, you can get at it at all angles and feel it setting in the hole better. I think it's the end of the fuel return tube that sits in a spot in the tank. There's a rubber piece on the end of it that may still be in the tank when you pull it out. I think that thing causes issues and if it's not in right, it sits just a little too high and the lock ring doesn't want to go on.
Lots of Vaseline on the lock ring, o ring etc. I ground down the tabs on the lock ring to that they were sharp edged to get under the tabs on the tank easier.
It's a lot easier if you drop the tank. I know I've done it with the tank on but at some point, you get really mad trying to get it in the right spot, the o-ring one and not slipping off, the tabs on the lock ring lined up etc etc. When it's off, you can get at it at all angles and feel it setting in the hole better. I think it's the end of the fuel return tube that sits in a spot in the tank. There's a rubber piece on the end of it that may still be in the tank when you pull it out. I think that thing causes issues and if it's not in right, it sits just a little too high and the lock ring doesn't want to go on.
Lots of Vaseline on the lock ring, o ring etc. I ground down the tabs on the lock ring to that they were sharp edged to get under the tabs on the tank easier.
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Year: 90,84
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Yea, fragmental 's (pasted) comment in post #2. Helped open my eyes, (they were already squinting at it). Now you enlighten more. IF the (not rubber) piece stayed stuck in a socket. (assuming there is one), that would be a itch to get at. I got my lock ring on three times with no problem, but I may not "have my proboscis in the hole'. (no missing rubber btw) It's just my gauge is goofy.
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