So I've come to the conclusion that my fuel pump is done with. Now I just gotta figure out which one to get. I would prefer Bosch, as that usually is the go to brand. My only problem, is that I need to know if I need to buy the whole new set up, or just the pump module. All your input is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.

 

If your problem is just pump related to actual fuel pressure or fuel delivery then a pump and new sock is all that needs changed. I think your on the right track with Bosch, don't go cheap with this part.

 

Now finding one...

 

Thanks for the reply Oswalla. Anytime I change a pump on the other vehicles I've worked on, it was just the whole set up. I'm not finding that now, so that's why I was wondering on it. Might go hit up AZ and see what they have. Usually what they have available, whether in store or on order, is what the options are.
Freegdr, gonna look now

 

What about Delphi pumps?

 

Bosch has pumps individually.

 

Cruiser, you suggest just buying a Bosch pump instead?
Vs the full Delphi setup I guess

 

If you can't find the Bosch one, your next best bet would be a Carter brand. Absolutely stay away from the Airtex pump. The are garbage...

 

Delphi is low budget as well. Anything Autozone has will be low budget, It seems to be their business model. Napa here does not carry Bosch either. Amazon or Rockauto will give you the most choices on older vehicle parts. I use Amazon mostly because I am Prime member and can have parts in a day or 2 with free shipping.

 

Oswalla, I'm the same way with Amazon prime. Thanks a lot for the link

 

Yessirree.

 

I changed mine a couple of times before I knew about the black cone that fit's on the end of the return, and holds the whole business in place. This photo is in my sig link Btw. Also, I wonder if Airtex could have cleaned up there act?

Below is the inside of the tank. The black ring you see is the end of the cone that belongs on the end of the fuel return line on the pump assembly. That cone on the metal line holds the bottom of the whole deal in place. That should be fished out, and installed on the metal fuel return line on the assembly. Then you seat the cone into the receptacle in the tank when installing it. The fuel return and pickup are located in a tray inside the tank, so return fuel is available to be picked up at the pump inlet, even when the tank is low or at an angle.




So, your pump is not running, or the fuel pressure is to low? You do know it will only run a couple of seconds after you turn the key on? (Then while cranking, or running). You checked the ballast resistor on the inner fender by the air cleaner.....

 

thank you cruiser. i ordered the parts on amazon yesterday afternoon.
DFlintstone, i will check on all the parts when i change the pump, to make sure all goes back in, intact. so will it be best to drop the tank? i have read that sometimes you don't have to.
as far as the symptoms, i am getting no fuel to the fuel rail at all, i popped off fuel lines and had my bro crank the motor. nothing. thats why i concluded the pump, but i will go diagnose the ballast resistor. best way to do that?
i will research and probably find it before y'all get a chance to reply, but that is fine. i appreciate all the help i have received here. if it is the resistor, then i guess i will be shopping for another one. and for the price of the pump on amazon vs local stores, that don't keep in stock, I'm saving ~50% by shopping amazon.

 

ok, more diagnostics. results: jumped the ballast resistor, no change. swapped #2 and #4 relays as i saw in another thread you commented on DFlintstone, and nothing still. i guess i will be playing with the fuel tank tomorrow when parts come in. any other ideas, renix masters? like stated before, i appreciate all the help.

 

It's not necessary to drop the tank. (Yea, I just wanted you to check that other). Btw, juicing the wire at the rear of the resistor shoots power directly to the pump...wires intact of course. Or see that it has at least 9 or 10 volts.

Just wear glasses as stuff will be falling right in your face. If you can, spray and wash the area before you start. Be very patent and careful removing the assembly. I suppose wiggleing it a little and trying to pull that cone deal straight up might help it stay on. Then extracting it...it needs to be turned sideways 1/2 way out IIRC. Besides the float for the gauge there is the filter screen. It's not hard to end up with that screen knocked loose and in the tank. It takes a bit of finesse to work all that out of the hole.

You found other threads right? (brass drift, no sparks, less than 1/4 thank ect.....