Mine broke saw 2 posts and one says its a M12x 58mm and another one says its a M10 but I think that's the ones that mounts to the frame. Thanks

 

Well I found more links with people saying M12 x 1.75 x 58. So I ordered from Advance some hex head class 10.9 M12 x 1.75 x 70mm should be close enough to install washers and cut rest off if it still too long. Also had the track bar bolt break along with the end links....even sprayed them down with Kroil oil and applied heat. On the track-bar bolt looks to be a M10 x 1.5 x 70mm I got one also from Advanced a M10 x 1.5 x 70mm class 12.9 with some washers and a lock-nut.I think hopefully I wont have anything else break but then again still got to removed all the control arms.

 

How did the link bolt break? I just installed 2 Moog greasables, both my links were broke. The book says tighten to 70 ft lbs on the big bolt. I think if it's loose you might break it. There's a kind of crush sleeve as you know in the middle of the bushing, if not tight enough you won't be into that. You know when you hit it, it suddenly becomes a lot harder to tighten.

 

If you are talking about the bolts on the axle side, the ones that are pressed in? I had to go to the dealer to get them because on certain model years they need to be pressed in. Not sure for the 2000 model though. But your numbers sound correct. You can also search sway bar quick disconnect kits and a bunch of options show up on Google.

 

On the end links both broke off the top (no biggy Advance has those end links in stock) then on passenger side the pressed in bolt broke that holds the end link and last the bolt broke on the axle side bolt for the trackbar. I just went with a regular bolt for the end link mounting bolt thats pressed as figure either I'll tack weld the bolt to it or weld in a washer if its too loose.

 

How long ago was that? I thought those are no longer stocked. Thanks

 

I've got a pair of them with the nuts if your interested and if they'll work on your 2000. I don't know.

 

Thanks for the offer gonna use a regular bolt as a temp and got a OEM one coming in. Jeep is not used that much so figure it'll be OK for time being. Now got to remove the control arms..Hope these bolts don't beak.

 

Maybe a 18 months ago. I tried regular bolts but that went missing because it was not pressed in and didn't have a nut pressing against the ear to hold it. If you see the studs for the quick disconnects, they have a flange on one side of the ear and then you use a nut to hold it in place so there is not wiggling. I think the wiggling of the regular bolt will eventually break it.

 

Well spent 3 days just doing the control arms. Three broken bolts and someone had welded the upper control arm nuts to the mounting brackets (still has the stock bolts and my 6 point socket just round it out on that small head) ! While cutting out one of the bolts on lower control arm I cut into the adjustment cleves and had to weld it back up.Oh funny thing is I thought the arms would be the easiest...four bolts and the axle bushing the hardest .Hell those bushings were the easiest, drilled out the rubber used my air hammer to fold and punch out the inner sleeve. Had the new bushings in the freezer for 3 days and knocked them in with a dead blow.

 

Oh boy, that sounds like it was a PITA.