nickl

Hi all,

Guess I have got the usual front speaker XJ issue. Pass side was dead when I bought the truck. I have Finally pulled the offending speaker & swapped the rear one in. Great it worked! Until I shut the door, LOL.

If I wiggle the protective tube in the door jamb it cuts in & out. I guess this killed the old speaker over time as it is totally dead (checked it in the rear position).

So I have a short....what's the best way of tracking it down?

mwdouglas

remove boot from door and jam pull the speaker wire out and look for cracks

nickl

Looks like I have found the problem spot, where the one wire from the dash is swaged into two in the door jamb area. If you bend that back & forth the speaker cuts out.

I have cut that section out & was wondering what the best method of rejoining the two ends into one would be now...

Diesel

Soldering or crimp joint.

mwdouglas

x2

nickl

Thanks I was thinking of the crimp joint too, but I have a "Y" situation: the wires from the (non-existent) tweeter & speaker have to join the one wire coming from the stereo.

andrew600

mine was crackling when i opened and closed. i pulled the speaker and the connections were super janky and loose. i soldered them. and no more problems.

irs009

Solder is the most dependable connection you can make.

Diesel

Not always. Different metals take better to different solders, some metals arent fond of solder whether it be no clean, flux core or rohs.

Copper on the other hand adheres well to ROHS and Flux Core. But it is not advised due to ROHS deteriorating fast and the flux core weakens over time.

Good crimp joint is your best bet.

irs009

More failures in crimp joints than any other. It's a lazy mans way of wiring.

Diesel

get good sleeve crimps and a good crimping tool.

Its not lazy at all. Its actually recommended by MECP installers for various reasons.

Edit-And thats not true.

irs009

I spent seven years wiring Auditoriums and stadiums for sound and never used a crimp joint, and I was a member of the IBEW. I've never seen a crimp joint that I can't pull apart with my hands.

So we're going to have to agree to disagree.

Diesel

You were one of them huh

What solder did you use?

I've re-wired my fair share of.....everything over the years and without question the soldered joints are the ones to fail, corrode or both.

The other thing I've found is the wires tend snap just above the solder joint. This is due to solder creep which makes the wire more brittle because it's now, in a sense, a single conductor wire and has lost it's multi-strand flexibility.

I do a two part process or crimping, crimp /heat shrink with a proper marine grade adhesive lined heat crimp terminals usually made (or sourced) by Anchor, FTZ or AMP.. This become a hermetically sealed joint.

Why do you think they only use crimps on marine equipment? Ex. Chris Craft, all marine grade crimps. Outlast solders by a long time.

irs009

You seem to do a good job of wiring. Not everyone has your expertise. I stick with soldering.

I'm glad we can differ in opinion and still get along. :=)

Diesel

Different connections for different applications