Front Shimmy at 50 mph
I was looking at 1.75" coil spacers and 1.5" shackles should I get this or should I go with the Teraflex 2" Budget boost. I really want to fit 31" tires without having to change shocks.
They're about the same. You will be able to fit 31s no sweat!! No need for extended brake lines either. If you take the rear anti sway bar off and throw it as far as you can, and buy a set of discos for the front, that XJ will shock you with the amount of flex you get out of it. Disconnect the ASBs and test out the flex with someone watching to see if you need to reroute the hard lines, but that's is all you should have to do as as far as BLs are concerned. HTH!! Later!!
CF Veteran


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 6
From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
As COS said, you dont need front brake lines. Just straighten out the bend in the hard line on unirail.
You also dont need BPE's. Most dont work with OME shocks anyway.
Measure the distance between the the lower lip of your fender flare and the center of your wheel/axleshaft. Rear was 17.5" and front was 17" when it rolled off the assembly line. Deduct above measurements from your actual measurement for your lift total. Do this on level ground.
You also dont need BPE's. Most dont work with OME shocks anyway.
Measure the distance between the the lower lip of your fender flare and the center of your wheel/axleshaft. Rear was 17.5" and front was 17" when it rolled off the assembly line. Deduct above measurements from your actual measurement for your lift total. Do this on level ground.
As COS said, you dont need front brake lines. Just straighten out the bend in the hard line on unirail.
You also dont need BPE's. Most dont work with OME shocks anyway.
Measure the distance between the the lower lip of your fender flare and the center of your wheel/axleshaft. Rear was 17.5" and front was 17" when it rolled off the assembly line. Deduct above measurements from your actual measurement for your lift total. Do this on level ground.
You also dont need BPE's. Most dont work with OME shocks anyway.
Measure the distance between the the lower lip of your fender flare and the center of your wheel/axleshaft. Rear was 17.5" and front was 17" when it rolled off the assembly line. Deduct above measurements from your actual measurement for your lift total. Do this on level ground.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
YJ lines are the ones to use in front unless you are going real tall. The Dodge Dakota rear line works great.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
BTW the right side rear E-Brake line will lengthen the short E-Bake cables but you have to use the right sided YJ one to replace both XJ ones. (Right side YJ is longer than Left.)
Yeah YJ lines work either front or rearon lifts up to 4.5". The Dakota rear also works and is 5" longer than OEM ones IIRC. So at a taller height the YJ rear line may be too short.
BTW the right side rear E-Brake line will lengthen the short E-Bake cables but you have to use the right sided YJ one to replace both XJ ones. (Right side YJ is longer than Left.)
BTW the right side rear E-Brake line will lengthen the short E-Bake cables but you have to use the right sided YJ one to replace both XJ ones. (Right side YJ is longer than Left.)
Well if you have 2" now, you will have 4" up front and maybe 3.5" in the rear. At this height you may need additional components.
To give you an idea, here's what i have or had:
2" ome kit
2" front spacers
OME AAL (1.5")
OME 2" shocks with modified Full Traction BPE's
JKS adjustable front trackbar
eye-to-eye sway bar link conversion kit from Warrior Products (2" longer than stock)
Rear YJ brake line (3" longer than stock)
PORC sye kit and front xj driveshaft for rear.
I had serious vibrations with the OME kit alone, and it only got worse when i went to 4" so i had to get the sye kit or drop the transfer case.
To give you an idea, here's what i have or had:
2" ome kit
2" front spacers
OME AAL (1.5")
OME 2" shocks with modified Full Traction BPE's
JKS adjustable front trackbar
eye-to-eye sway bar link conversion kit from Warrior Products (2" longer than stock)
Rear YJ brake line (3" longer than stock)
PORC sye kit and front xj driveshaft for rear.
I had serious vibrations with the OME kit alone, and it only got worse when i went to 4" so i had to get the sye kit or drop the transfer case.
What i would suggest you do is if you get new 31" tires, do it first and then lift to clear them. That way you know what needs to be done and not have to guess as we are doing now. You will still be able to drive it while you wait for parts but it will rub a little when turning.
The problem with 3.75" backspacing and 31" tires is that when you turn, the tires start rubbing on the lowest part of the front bumper and lowest part of the rear fender, right at the corner. This is prevented by cutting, trimming, or lifting it more. I trimmed mine a little so it's not noticeable. If you want pictures of what i did, i can get you some.
Last edited by muddeprived; Aug 8, 2008 at 05:24 PM.



The stock line was pretty stretched so i had no choice but to swap it out.