Front to rear hardline brakeline
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Member


Joined: May 2019
Posts: 127
Likes: 10
From: South Carolina
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a 98 cherokee classic 4.0.the front to rear brakeline on the driver side is pretty rusty..Does anyone have any idea where I could possibly acquire just that specific hardline instead of having to order every hardline for the jeep.
I got one from the dealership last year, but if I had to do it again I would’ve gotten a flare kit and a roll of brake line. The pre bent replacement is really hard to maneuver into place properly and just doesn’t seem to line up like you’d think it would. And on top of that, because there was no slack to work with I ended up stripping some threads on my distribution box while installing it. It’ll be way cheaper to buy the roll of brake line and rent a flaring kit too
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Agreed.
Go with NiCopp and you'll probably never have to replace it. The Jeep will rust away to nothing before that ever corrodes. It's more coorosion resistant than stainless steel, and far easier to work with. Some folks here have mention a NAPA flaring tool which works really well. Those cheapo units are very difficult to master. A good tool makes it easy.
Good info in this thread, including a link to the NAPA flaring tool.
Go with NiCopp and you'll probably never have to replace it. The Jeep will rust away to nothing before that ever corrodes. It's more coorosion resistant than stainless steel, and far easier to work with. Some folks here have mention a NAPA flaring tool which works really well. Those cheapo units are very difficult to master. A good tool makes it easy.
Good info in this thread, including a link to the NAPA flaring tool.
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; Apr 19, 2020 at 12:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Member


Joined: May 2019
Posts: 127
Likes: 10
From: South Carolina
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 I6
Awesome I have a flaring tool where I work,i work at a hydraulic hose store..we just dont fab brake lines or I would just make them myself..but thanks for the advice I'll probably just end up buying the roll of nickel cooper line and doing it myself
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
You could go the middle-hard route like me, find one in the junk yard to use as a pattern and make a new one out of NiCopp.
On that line, the coupler just below the master might just be in there for factory assembly, but it looks like it might make things easier for replacement too. I got the whole line out of a 1998 without being able to disconnect that coupler until after it was out. That union has a bubble flare from factory, not an inverted flare. Probably doesn't matter what you use in there either way, or if you make the line up without it.
You also have an emergency brake bracket in the way in a 1998 that you need to unbolt (2 bolts), but it should swing out of the way enough to get your line out, and new one back in. Just watch your noggin. If you are not replacing the rear flex line, then that should be about it. Have a hammer and chisel ready for the clip on the rear brake hose if you are replacing that too.
Caution on a 1996 (my year) as a donor. The coupler fittings are SAE in 1996, but 1998 appear to be metric. The fitting at the master and at the flex line are SAE. In function, it doesn't matter what is there as long as you have a free flowing line front to back.
IIRC, In another thread someone mentioned using two pieces of line with pre-fitted ends from NAPA(?) to form this up and connect under the master at about the same place as factory. The full length required to do it in one piece of pre-made might not be out there.
I haven't started pulling mine out and forming up new yet. Still amassing parts because I decided to replace calipers, rotors, flex lines, hardline front to back and driver's side hardline.
Found this was the best overall deal for 25' of NiCopp brand NiCu 3/16" line, if you use a 25% off discount code (WIKI25) order online and pick up in store:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...325/16190029-P
Their small tube cutter ended up being the best deal for that too.
For fittings, I got tired of the brass ones rounding off on me (even after multiple applications of PB Blaster) so going to order these from Summit. I don't need a full Jeep load of fittings yet, but seemed like a deal.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220237
Ordering some other stuff from them (rotors and caliper rebuild kits) so my total went into free shipping and handling range, where the total beat Rock Auto.
Some other fittings place has stainless too for around the same price, but did not respond when I asked for a list of what fittings were actually in their set.
My NAPA (local distribution center to boot) does not carry stainless fittings, neither do the other big chain parts stores here.
On that line, the coupler just below the master might just be in there for factory assembly, but it looks like it might make things easier for replacement too. I got the whole line out of a 1998 without being able to disconnect that coupler until after it was out. That union has a bubble flare from factory, not an inverted flare. Probably doesn't matter what you use in there either way, or if you make the line up without it.
You also have an emergency brake bracket in the way in a 1998 that you need to unbolt (2 bolts), but it should swing out of the way enough to get your line out, and new one back in. Just watch your noggin. If you are not replacing the rear flex line, then that should be about it. Have a hammer and chisel ready for the clip on the rear brake hose if you are replacing that too.
Caution on a 1996 (my year) as a donor. The coupler fittings are SAE in 1996, but 1998 appear to be metric. The fitting at the master and at the flex line are SAE. In function, it doesn't matter what is there as long as you have a free flowing line front to back.
IIRC, In another thread someone mentioned using two pieces of line with pre-fitted ends from NAPA(?) to form this up and connect under the master at about the same place as factory. The full length required to do it in one piece of pre-made might not be out there.
I haven't started pulling mine out and forming up new yet. Still amassing parts because I decided to replace calipers, rotors, flex lines, hardline front to back and driver's side hardline.
Found this was the best overall deal for 25' of NiCopp brand NiCu 3/16" line, if you use a 25% off discount code (WIKI25) order online and pick up in store:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...325/16190029-P
Their small tube cutter ended up being the best deal for that too.
For fittings, I got tired of the brass ones rounding off on me (even after multiple applications of PB Blaster) so going to order these from Summit. I don't need a full Jeep load of fittings yet, but seemed like a deal.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220237
Ordering some other stuff from them (rotors and caliper rebuild kits) so my total went into free shipping and handling range, where the total beat Rock Auto.
Some other fittings place has stainless too for around the same price, but did not respond when I asked for a list of what fittings were actually in their set.
My NAPA (local distribution center to boot) does not carry stainless fittings, neither do the other big chain parts stores here.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 407
From: Long Island, New York
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 98 stroked 4.7
I just replaced "only" the line from 6 inches below the MC to the rear axle flex line disc...Several companies sell the required line...you don't need a kit. Once the line left the floorboards and turned into the engine compartment it got very tricky. Lots of bends and its not easy to snake into place...its almost 10 feet long. I had the roll of nicop sitting in the garage...the problem I saw is that the flare tools ONLY make the flare end....some parts the line ends in the "opposite" shape cone couldn't figure out how to make that and I had a hard time finding the threaded ends that slide onto the tubing to back up and connect the flare end to the components. On the Cherokee there is a six inch segment that comes off the mc and that connects to the main rear brake line. The threaded couplings in the mc are twice the dia of the opposite end where it goes into the flex line connector.. The line is the same diameter but the threaded flare coupling is much bigger .I could find the small ends but not the big end...and if I re-used the 6 inch line then that part of the factory line needed to be the opposite cone shape...hope this makes sense. Like I said...I purchased the factory line it was 50 or 60 bucks but I was done in 4 or 5 hours and didn't need to gather a hundred different parts...All this was on an 01 with no antiskid
I just replaced "only" the line from 6 inches below the MC to the rear axle flex line disc...Several companies sell the required line...you don't need a kit. Once the line left the floorboards and turned into the engine compartment it got very tricky. Lots of bends and its not easy to snake into place...its almost 10 feet long. I had the roll of nicop sitting in the garage...the problem I saw is that the flare tools ONLY make the flare end....some parts the line ends in the "opposite" shape cone couldn't figure out how to make that and I had a hard time finding the threaded ends that slide onto the tubing to back up and connect the flare end to the components. On the Cherokee there is a six inch segment that comes off the mc and that connects to the main rear brake line. The threaded couplings in the mc are twice the dia of the opposite end where it goes into the flex line connector.. The line is the same diameter but the threaded flare coupling is much bigger .I could find the small ends but not the big end...and if I re-used the 6 inch line then that part of the factory line needed to be the opposite cone shape...hope this makes sense. Like I said...I purchased the factory line it was 50 or 60 bucks but I was done in 4 or 5 hours and didn't need to gather a hundred different parts...All this was on an 01 with no antiskid
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_1...wordInput=1441
To go from that short piece of the proportioning valve with the 90 degree bends to a new line using regular brake fittings.
I kept that short piece, used the adapter with 2 lengths of premade line connected with a union to the brake hose at the rear diff.
I cut one of those 2 lines down and reflared it to get the exact length I needed.
Last edited by Ralph77; Apr 23, 2020 at 01:18 PM.
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CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
The larger fittings at the proportioning valve are 1/2" 20, iirc. This package seems to cover every size of the SAE variety. However, the 1998 I encountered had some metric. Don't have to replace with metric unless you really love it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...7/applications
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...7/applications
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