McHank

I noticed something popping when taking a corner (mostly a left hand one) coming from the right front. Jacked the car up and tried to wiggle the wheel – had some play in it, 3 and 9 as well as 6 and 12. Did see the U-joint move a tiny bit too.

Thinking about replacing both the UJ and the hub but am not sure about a couple of things:

It's a 94 XJ with ABS, will the Timken 513084 work? As for the UJ, is there a prefered one (it's a DD)?

The draglink seems to be ok, it moves and sticks – if it's bad – would it cause a wiggle like above?

Thanks, McHank

ZINGGG

Not sure about the hub but you want a Spicer 760X ujoint for that front axle.

Also the draglink should not be stiff. It should be able to wiggle a tad bit. At least I'm hoping it's normal cause that's what mine does and I assumed it's normal haha

McHank

Thanks for the reply,

So the Spicer 760X will work w ABS? Is there a similar Spicer that is greasable?

The draglink does wiggle around the joint but I don't think it moves side to side at the connection, so I hope it's ok.

hawaiian808

jack up your front end
crank the wheel all the way to the left or right and max it out now go out and try to turn the wheel and you will be able to feel any binding from the u joints,

if you replace the u joints might as well do the hub as well its all one assembly and is about.. 118 for a moog hub from advance or was it auto zone... haha,

McHank

Thanks for the tip, I think I did a similar thing (unintentionally) to the test; when going full left and driving slowly I get some binding and skipping from the left front. Would that be the same result as in your description (being a lazy *****, getting late and it's dark and rainy out there)?

So, either Moog or Timken, any difference?
And, do you do both sides at once?

hawaiian808

im ocd about things so yes i replaced both haha
honestly turn would do the same thing while driving but you can get a good feel for it while having it jacked up,

and if your in there might as well do both sides , wont hurt anything , maybe prevent you from doing the other side for another 10-15 years as well

moog or tim both are good and will serve you well


i gave up doing my shocks today because it is 9 degrees outside, might just go to monroe and have them do it

McHank

Yea, I kinda wish the temp would drop a bit tho, the ground is just mud right now – so much easier when it's at least steady ground.

I'll see if Rockauto or such has both the Spicer 760X and Moog or Timken – is there anything else that could be needed (have to think ahead because it being hard to get parts here for less than gold prices)? Will the center bolt and spacer be re-usable?

hawaiian808

the axle hub nut is 36mm and yes you can use it again, there is a coder key , i re used mine just cant destroy it when you take it out, and that should be it, u joints , u joint press, wheel hubs, and some never seize, a flat chisel , stout screw driver and hammer , make sure to put dope on the wheel hub so its not rusted in like the first time, use deep creep or pb blaster on the three nuts holding the hub, you cant get to the side that matters till the wheel is off, you will see what i mean but something is better than nothing, should only take an hour each side for just hubs then maybe 35-45 minutes for u joints

McHank

Great, thank you for all the help! I'll report back once I get the work done.

McHank

A little update while I wait for the goods.

I crawled under and tried to locate the clunking. Put an iron bar underneath the wheel and moved it up and down – did have a tiny (?) bit of play in the top ball joint (about 1mm) and heard a clunk when doing it, No.1 in pic.

Also, the whole axleshaft with the bearing hub moved some up and down when doing the prying – is that ok or should it be rigid?

No. 2 in pic is some sort of seal that I'm wondering about, is it supposed to be that far out? What's it's purpose?

XJRaider

i have the same problem you have and i have replaced everything your talking about and it hasnt fixed it yet replaced hubs axle u joints bushings and everything i think it could be so if you have the same problem i have we need to figure it out asap

McHank

Man, that doesn't bode well. Do you have the top ball joint moving as well? I'm starting to think that might be what's causing the "clunk", I can hear when prying and am guessing it would be a lot more audible when the weight of the car moves on and off it.

Agree with having to figure it out asap, mine's parked until I get the goods to swap out the hubs.

XJRaider

yeah i am at school so i dont know when i will be able to check about the top ball joint but like i said before i could make a list of things that i fixed or changed looking for this.

thought maybe control arm bushings? or some people said loose exhaust? motor/tranny mounts?Steering related? brake calipers/rotors?sway bar?

i have posted a dozen times or so and the above plus others are what everyone says i guess we should keep looking at tell each other when we figure it out

imjakethesnake

The #2 you circled is a plastic type seal that slides on the axle. Its sort of like a dust cap. On mine, you can carefully slide it back closer to to the axle shaft (clean the area first) closing the gap you have (Easy fix). Ive had both left and right axles out of mine and replaced the u-joints.

anarce

Bumping an old post. Did you guys ever get this resolved? I have the same kind of pop from the front end when I turn. I was thinking u-joints, but after reading this I'm wondering if it might be something else. When I'm driving along and I turn the wheel just a little bit, like when following a curve, I immediately get the pop sound and can feel it in the steering wheel.