Front Passenger U Joint Problems!
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 3
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is a write-up in the tech section here on exactly how to do it.
It is even called Changing U-joints on a Dana 30. I have it on pretty good authority that the guy who wrote it would be happy to answer any questions you had as long as you don't act like an asshat.
The only Xj's with CV-joints were the early(84-85) ones with full-time.
If you are going to be replacing a ball joint. You do need some way to press it out. But you can borrow one from AutoZone or O'Reillys. But for a U-joint... no need for one.
It is even called Changing U-joints on a Dana 30. I have it on pretty good authority that the guy who wrote it would be happy to answer any questions you had as long as you don't act like an asshat.

The only Xj's with CV-joints were the early(84-85) ones with full-time.
If you are going to be replacing a ball joint. You do need some way to press it out. But you can borrow one from AutoZone or O'Reillys. But for a U-joint... no need for one.
Last edited by whowey; May 21, 2009 at 07:22 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
but its not a bad idea to do it
you can usually rent one or barrow from auto parts store for 10 to 15 bucks
some will let you use it for free depending on how much you spend there
post a picture
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L inline 6
My auto teacher brought in a new mechanic from the bus detachment for the district. The new mechanic said that where the yoke comes out of the axle has moved an inch out of the differential. So he said thats why you need a special press to get the axle back into the diff or something. I will take a pic and post tomorrow but the mechanic said that he doesnt wanna deal with it because it could be a garage sale of jeep parts on the highway if something goes wrong. Is this a common problem or anyone ever heard of this happening?
Dan, Pics to come.
Dan, Pics to come.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 3
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My auto teacher brought in a new mechanic from the bus detachment for the district. The new mechanic said that where the yoke comes out of the axle has moved an inch out of the differential. So he said thats why you need a special press to get the axle back into the diff or something. I will take a pic and post tomorrow but the mechanic said that he doesnt wanna deal with it because it could be a garage sale of jeep parts on the highway if something goes wrong. Is this a common problem or anyone ever heard of this happening?
Dan, Pics to come.
Dan, Pics to come.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My auto teacher brought in a new mechanic from the bus detachment for the district. The new mechanic said that where the yoke comes out of the axle has moved an inch out of the differential. So he said thats why you need a special press to get the axle back into the diff or something. I will take a pic and post tomorrow but the mechanic said that he doesnt wanna deal with it because it could be a garage sale of jeep parts on the highway if something goes wrong. Is this a common problem or anyone ever heard of this happening?
Dan, Pics to come.
Dan, Pics to come.
if not then why are they arguing with people that have and know what they are doing
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 4
From: Northfield MN
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
where the hell did this guy learn his info? 
Jack up the front wheels, pull the tires
two studs hold the calipers, take them off
pull the rotor
yank the cotter pin out, 36mm to the main shaft bolt, break it loose
pull the bearing hub by pulling the 4 12pt bolts (i think they are 14mm?)
take the main 36mm all the way off, lightly tap the shaft out of the hub, pull the shaft out.
Hammer the old Joints out, use a press to put new ones in, put it all back together in the order you took it apart in..
No "Special tool" to take the shafts out, little finesse to get the U-joints in and your done.

Jack up the front wheels, pull the tires
two studs hold the calipers, take them off
pull the rotor
yank the cotter pin out, 36mm to the main shaft bolt, break it loose
pull the bearing hub by pulling the 4 12pt bolts (i think they are 14mm?)
take the main 36mm all the way off, lightly tap the shaft out of the hub, pull the shaft out.
Hammer the old Joints out, use a press to put new ones in, put it all back together in the order you took it apart in..
No "Special tool" to take the shafts out, little finesse to get the U-joints in and your done.

And there is a write up posted on the u joint changing heres the link
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-change-u-joints-dana-30-a-3689/
Hopefully helps a little bit more!
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
this sight will give you a break down of the d30
http://www.tellico4x4.com/images/products/omix/d30.pdf
http://www.tellico4x4.com/images/products/omix/d30.pdf
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada
Year: Sold my 1991 to go to school for 2 years.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Don't even worry about it. Just replace your u joints and re-install the shafts. That plastic piece is only there to try and keep as much crap out of the axle tube as possible. The oil seal is in close to the pumpkin is the important seal. Those plastic caps just go wherever they want on mine with no problems
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you would need to order two and when you have the axles out to fix the
ujoints you can replace them
not a big deal but I would get them sense you will have thing apart
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
get a pic of the u joint
the ones you posted don't show the joint well
and they don't look all that bad
are you sure its not the ball joints that are bad
if the flange in the picture moves in and out when you wiggle the wheel
then its probably the ball joints
the ones you posted don't show the joint well
and they don't look all that bad
are you sure its not the ball joints that are bad
if the flange in the picture moves in and out when you wiggle the wheel
then its probably the ball joints
the special tool i used to replace my 230k mile u joints on my recently purchased 88.. was a grinder to cut the damn things to get em outa the axles. After that a BIG vice and ALOT of muscle. Put in new McQuay-Norris Ujoints.. much tougher than stock .. not as good as spicers though I hear.. i didnt do enough research first.. but they look better and it stopped clunking LOL.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L inline 6
he was pulling on the rotor when he showed me that it was very soft and could be wiggled in and out. I had a repair sheet done by a certified and trusted mechanic before i began this endeavour, he said the passenger was loose and rusted and didnt mention anything about the ball joints. I havent driven it alot since i got it so hopefully the ball joints are okay. I went and purchased 2 u joints i figure i will take Stumpers advice and do both of them at the same time. Is their any test that i could do to make absolutely sure that the ball joints are okay?? my brother wrecked his car because they came loose around a corner awhile ago.
Thanks for the much needed help,
Dan
Thanks for the much needed help,
Dan



