Still have this problem. Brakes are not releasing fully when pedal is released.
During the winter they didn't get too hot but now it's warmer the get really hot and start to pull the Jeep to the nearside.

Could it be the master cylinder not pulling the fluid back from the calipers?

The flexi hoses seem fine and don't bulge, the pistons are very clean so what could be causing this.

 

I have had the same problem on some of the Jeeps.
What I did was to rebuild the brake calipers, just get a Raybestos kit # WK1473 for each caliper and just rebuild them.
I had death wobble on my MJ that went away when the front brakes stop dragging.

 

I removed the caliper and popped the piston out, cleaned it up, although it wasn't really dirty just a slight ridge of gunk. Sprayed it with WD40 and pressed it back in, bled it thoroughly and it seems to be much better. I too was getting wobble but not now. Discs were warm but not red hot like before and very slight drag. Hopefully they are now good.

 

I had the problem on my rear passenger side...i fixed it by replacing the caliper.

The cause is when you change your pads, if you don't open up the bleed valve before you push the piston back into the caliper the old fluid goes back up into the system, this can cause the pistons to stick.

 

I FINALLY figured it out!!! My 2000 XJ was having MASSIVE brake drag to the point the rotors glowing red! The issue is in my assumed stock caliper.Since the caliper seems to be of cast iron with machined piston cylinder(correct me if I'm wrong). It does corrode when the coating gets worn away. So in my case moisture and impurities from river stomping heavy rains and mud whacking get under the boot that surrounds the piston, when mixed with heat a layer of flash rust develops in between the piston and its cylinder. Effect being piston unable to retract but under hydraulic pressure the piston will extend like normal. I gutted both front calipers, cleaned around piston and installed corrosion resisting moisture displacing high temp(1800deg) grease under the boot. I feel replacing the calipers of OEM flavor would result in the same issue down the road.

 

Firstly, I wouldn't get any petroleum oil or grease near any brake rubber. (also you don't want baby oil (mineral oil), near any thin rubber).

As petroleum eats rubber, it expands first. Somebody put kerocene in a master cylinder once! What a scene!

Actually why I joined the forum...my very old rings in my calipers had apparently swollen over many years. More than 10, maybe they were stock from 90. Wouldn't retract, rotor heat, friction yada yada. (was gradual)

I'm all for cleaning and all, but spare the lube there on the piston. There IS special stuff, Honda has some, but if it's right, brake fluid is all you need.

Because of timing, I needed to buy new, and give Napa my old Calipers just because I didn't have time to wait for the new rings I needed. My pistons/calipers were fine. Just the rings had swollen over time and were causing binding.

And To the guy who mentioned building up the groove in the steering knuckle with a weld and machining it smooth. I hadn't thought of that!

Anyway, that's my "sticky piston" story. Calipers were ($50/ both). bucks, (and they got my originals)...if I had the time, the kit might have been under $10.

Put the bleeder end up, they will fit the wrong way. (yea that happens)

I went ahead and found it, over 5,100 posts ago> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dis...o-much-100670/