Front Brakes
So I found out my brakes are completely toast, and I'm trying to figure out if I should just do rotors and pads or if it'd be worth doing the upgrade for bigger brakes now rather than later. I'm planning on Kj disc brake swap for the rear and I need to figure out whether or not to keep front stock for now. I am on 15" rims and am interested in upgrading the brakes to be bigger but am unsure if I should wait until I have 16" rims or if I'll be able to squeeze decent brakes in there as it is. Stopping performance i'm trying to account for the 33 inch tires with steel rack, bumpers, and RTT.
actually after reading around more, absolutely no way is stock acceptable for the tires and weight I have, I think its already broken something considering the pads can shift and wiggle out of the holders... I've read people talking about the holders "flexing" and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced it and what it feels like? I know when I break hard my front right tire feels like the brake grabs more than the other but unsure if that has to do with this or not
CF Veteran




Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,607
Likes: 446
From: Michigan
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Your jeep can haul 5 people in total, 4 full grown adults comfortably*. Do you think the accesories you've added outweighs the passenger capacity of your jeep?
Perhaps your braking system just needs repair vs dramatic upgrading? 33s are not that overwhelmingly oversized from factory anyways. Clean brake fluid, smooth gliding caliper pins, new soft brake lines and properly adjusted drums if you still have them at the time.
my advice would be to ensure your brake pad guides dont have gouges worn into them from rattling pads and if soo - weld them up and grind them smooth to keep your new pads from chattering.
If/when you do swap to disc brake in the rear you will want to consider a different master cylinder to keep the rears from locking up well before the fronts start doing the work its supposed to.
I've had great experience with the WJ booster and master cylinder on multiple variations on my truck from 36s and an 8.8 rear to my current 39s and 14bolt
Perhaps your braking system just needs repair vs dramatic upgrading? 33s are not that overwhelmingly oversized from factory anyways. Clean brake fluid, smooth gliding caliper pins, new soft brake lines and properly adjusted drums if you still have them at the time.
my advice would be to ensure your brake pad guides dont have gouges worn into them from rattling pads and if soo - weld them up and grind them smooth to keep your new pads from chattering.
If/when you do swap to disc brake in the rear you will want to consider a different master cylinder to keep the rears from locking up well before the fronts start doing the work its supposed to.
I've had great experience with the WJ booster and master cylinder on multiple variations on my truck from 36s and an 8.8 rear to my current 39s and 14bolt
CF Veteran




Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 349
From: District of Columbia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
To add to what's been posted above, using upgraded pads with good bite and heat resistance can make a big difference. I'd do that before going with larger rotors. Besides, larger rotors with crap pads will still brake like crap. I've had good luck with Hawk LTS pads, but there are other similar options out there.
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
my 97 grand with 230k has disc all around and new everything. Calipers rotors pads. I buy the kits with all in it. Pedal is rock hard, right up top, stops on a dime every time best brakes I ever saw if I do say so . Oh, new master and CU/Ni lines and hoses too.
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