Fried my Alt on the Trail...Up-graded Alt?
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fried my Alt on the Trail...Up-graded Alt?
I put my jeep through a few mud puddles and i fried the Alt.
I have seen a few People mention that the ZJ's have a 130 Amp Alt which is a Direct Swap/Up-grade for the Stock XJ alt? Anyone confirm?
Im also thinking about doing the Right hand drive bracket to get the Alt off the ground...
I also will be upgrading to a Optima Dual post battery so i can run Winch cables from the Side posts. Any suggestions or opinions?
I have seen a few People mention that the ZJ's have a 130 Amp Alt which is a Direct Swap/Up-grade for the Stock XJ alt? Anyone confirm?
Im also thinking about doing the Right hand drive bracket to get the Alt off the ground...
I also will be upgrading to a Optima Dual post battery so i can run Winch cables from the Side posts. Any suggestions or opinions?
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6.0
yea the alt. off the v-8 is bigger posjeepxj swapped his and all it required was some grinding to the stock bracket.
he has a little write up on his build page
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/6f...sjeepxj-43533/
he has a little write up on his build page
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/6f...sjeepxj-43533/
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Nippondenso alternators can be had 90-160A - I've posted a donor chart here before, I think.
I'm going to presume you have an OEM Nippondenso alternator - you can't swap between ND and Delco (I have to correct that one all the time.)
Don't forget to upgrade your mains wiring! I can help you with that...
The only battery manufacturer I can think of that will approve a high load being drawn off of the side posts of a battery is Odyssey - and that's because they don't use lead for the pads. If you try to run a winch off of any lead-pad side terminals, it's about even money you're going to melt the pads right out of the case. Run them off of the top, use the side pads for auxiliary/accessory distribution (this is per Exide, National, and Optima. I've spent a good deal of time talking to various engineering departments to get my information...) Since replacing the battery post clamps is usually coincident to a mains upgrade, you'll find you have the sudden ability to add leads as needed - which helps with winch wiring (wire directly to the top posts of the battery, using a marine-style or military-style clamp. Mine are "unleaded," which offer greater conductivity and lower internal resistance - therefore less heat to screw with the connexion.)
Another option would be to check the 150ci I4-equipped XJ/MJ - I believe that bracketry will also move the alternator up top. It may also be mounted in place of the aircon compressor - but any of these solutions is likely to require rerouting the belt. Thumb rules for minimum belt wrap (for efficient power transfer):
- Get as much as possible around the crank pully. 180* should be considered a minimum
- Power Steering will want a minimum of 135*
- Idler pullys are there to assist in belt routing, and the amount of wrap is not critical
- Aircon compressor (if retained) will want 160-180*
- Water pump pully will want >100* of wrap
- Alternator will want >135* of wrap - higher output alternators require more power to drive, and will therefore want more belt wrap
I'm going to presume you have an OEM Nippondenso alternator - you can't swap between ND and Delco (I have to correct that one all the time.)
Don't forget to upgrade your mains wiring! I can help you with that...
The only battery manufacturer I can think of that will approve a high load being drawn off of the side posts of a battery is Odyssey - and that's because they don't use lead for the pads. If you try to run a winch off of any lead-pad side terminals, it's about even money you're going to melt the pads right out of the case. Run them off of the top, use the side pads for auxiliary/accessory distribution (this is per Exide, National, and Optima. I've spent a good deal of time talking to various engineering departments to get my information...) Since replacing the battery post clamps is usually coincident to a mains upgrade, you'll find you have the sudden ability to add leads as needed - which helps with winch wiring (wire directly to the top posts of the battery, using a marine-style or military-style clamp. Mine are "unleaded," which offer greater conductivity and lower internal resistance - therefore less heat to screw with the connexion.)
Another option would be to check the 150ci I4-equipped XJ/MJ - I believe that bracketry will also move the alternator up top. It may also be mounted in place of the aircon compressor - but any of these solutions is likely to require rerouting the belt. Thumb rules for minimum belt wrap (for efficient power transfer):
- Get as much as possible around the crank pully. 180* should be considered a minimum
- Power Steering will want a minimum of 135*
- Idler pullys are there to assist in belt routing, and the amount of wrap is not critical
- Aircon compressor (if retained) will want 160-180*
- Water pump pully will want >100* of wrap
- Alternator will want >135* of wrap - higher output alternators require more power to drive, and will therefore want more belt wrap
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