CherokeeCam

So I rear ended some one a couple weeks ago. Overall it isn't bad damage, though insurance said over $4k in repairs. They totalled it since it is a '96 with 254k. I bought it back since I found the parts they said needed repair for around $600. I figured this was a good time to buy a beefy bumper so it wouldn't be as bad if anything like this happened again.



Upon tear down noticed that the passenger frame cap was indented some. Any suggestions on how to repair/pull it out even so the unibody tie in plates will fit/be snug? The front piece I can straighten with a little heater and such. But how would I pull the side out? I don't think a slide hammer would work nor is there a way to put a come along hook in there to pull.

dmill89

Looks like just the flange on the end where the bumper mounts and a dent in the front cross member. As long as there isn't any damage further back and the rails themselves are straight (aside from the little flange on the end shown in the pics) a BFH (Big F***ing Hammer) and some channel locks should get it good enough for new bumper mounts (or tie-in plates) to bolt up. That part of the frame really doesn't do anything but hold the bumper on so as long as the holes line up good enough for a bumper to bolt up it is fine.

jeepcountry99

Custom bumper that ****

Glockmeister

Nothing a Dremel and a file couldn't fix.

landude

Where do they get 4k in repair? Seriously I'm curious..

Firestorm500

Before you go any further, take it to a body shop and get them to put it on a frame machine.

They may need to get a pull on it. A unibody vehicle such as our Cherokees will tend to "ripple" in an accident such as yours. It may need to get squared up. The insurance company knew this, which is why they totalled it.

dmill89

It never hurts to have a professional look at it to make sure there isn't additional "frame" damage that isn't obvious and pull if necessary.


Given that it is a 96 with 250k mi the insurance company would have probably totaled it whether it had any "frame" damage or not. At a dealer body shop with new OE parts that bumper, grill, header panel, bezels, etc. would be a $2k+ repair (can't see from the pic if that passenger side fender is damaged, if it is that would put it closer to $3k) and most insurance companies will "total" a vehicle if repairs exceed 70% of blue-book value (about $2,400 for a 96 with those miles in "excellent" condition).

CherokeeCam

Have a smittybilt ready to put on.

Here is what they provided me. Some of these prices are absurd.

Front bumper $167.00
Header panel $339.00
Grille $349.00
Air Deflector/Dam $73.70
RT headlamp Door $113.00
LT headlamp Door $144.00
RT Sealed beam seat $49.85
RT Sealed beam retainer ring $46.25
RT Side marker lamp $10.18
LT Side marker lamp $10.18
RT Park lamp $16.23
LT Park lamp $16.23
Lower Tie bar $73.95
Radiator std Auto Trans $294.00
Fan Assy $305.00
Condenset w/tube inlet $342.00
RT Fender $289.00

Parts $2,638.55
Body Labor (9.8hrs @ $42/hr) $411.60
Paint Labor (7.2hrs @ $42/hr) $302.40
Mechanical Labor (5.6hrs @ $65/hr) $364.00
Paint Supplies (7.2hrs @ $32/hr) $230.40


Fixing to head out there now and work on it. If I can't get it where I feel comfortable, I will look at getting a pull. Though before I bought it back I had them throw it on a rack and check out if there was frame damage. This is literally the only spot and was hidden by the bumper. I don't consider this significant by any means.

94XjSport94

Good lord. I could do all that for under $600.

BenS

Ok body shops always overprice their work because insurance is willing to pay their outrageous prices. I talked to a small town body shop about some repairs on my volvo since the owner is a family friend. When he quoted me he told me if it was through insurance he would charge something like $1,200 but if I paid him cash he would only charge $400. They overprice their parts and quote more labor time than they actually need usually even at places like abra.

Bustedback

It cost me less than $250 to replace the header panel, grille, both headlamp assemblies, marker light and turn signal assemblies , and a new radiator after striking a homeless tweaker with a shopping cart in my ZJ when he ran out in front of me. I got everything from www.rockauto.com. I still have the dents in my hood and left fender as a warning to the other tweakers.

Firestorm500

The labor rates are very fair. They would be cheap in my area.

The parts prices are probably factory parts. Chrysler/Jeep stuff is pretty pricey compared to aftermarket.

Given those circumstances, it looks like a fair quote to me.

This is the reason I don't carry comp/collision on my '92 or '87. It wouldn't take much on either to be declared a total.

tssguy123

So you'd rather get in an accident and lose the value of your vehicle completely...? I mean, sure, they will probably total it... but at least you'll get some money out of it?

dmill89

When you consider the additional premium, deductible, and amount your insurance will increase from filing a claim it doesn't make sense to carry collision coverage on an older/lower value vehicle. Your additional costs would generally equal or exceed the check the insurance company cuts you for a "totaled" vehicle.

tssguy123

That's true, and I myself wouldn't do it.. but I could understand somebody doing it if they only have one vehicle to drive and no ability to quickly get cash/savings in the case of an accident.