Fixing my TCC solenoid harness with anovel approach ?
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CF Veteran




Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 725
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hi Men,
The problem here is my Torque convertor solenoid does not work, and the reason is the harness wire seems to be internally broken right where it goes thru a rubber bung in the top of the AW4
To replace the harness or wire is not easy, for several reasons, but I was chatting to my mechanic mate, and he came up with the following suggestion;
Run a direct wire and place it through the sump gasket, seal up any indentation with silicone
I cant see any reason why this wont work, its only a 5A wire (1mm ~1/32")
The sump has to come down anyway, its a cork gasket
secondary question; Should I use grey or black silicone?
Speak now or forever hold your peace
The problem here is my Torque convertor solenoid does not work, and the reason is the harness wire seems to be internally broken right where it goes thru a rubber bung in the top of the AW4
To replace the harness or wire is not easy, for several reasons, but I was chatting to my mechanic mate, and he came up with the following suggestion;
Run a direct wire and place it through the sump gasket, seal up any indentation with silicone
I cant see any reason why this wont work, its only a 5A wire (1mm ~1/32")
The sump has to come down anyway, its a cork gasket
secondary question; Should I use grey or black silicone?
Speak now or forever hold your peace
CF Veteran




Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 351
From: District of Columbia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I wonder how much the gasket compresses when the cover is torqued to spec and how that compares to the diameter of the wire. It may be one of those "try it and see what happens" situations.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran




Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 725
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I am going to groove the gasket by compressing (another) wire into it first
Then seal with silicone
Its really difficult to get at the harness bung from below, I have a spare harness, but it seems the trans would probably need to be lowered, or a hole cut in the floor
The other alternative I have considered is drill a tiny hole high up in the AW4 case, feed wire, silicone up
I think the gasket feed is just going to be easiest, and fully reversible if it leaks, reconsider than
You really need the TCC working, trans is working way too hard without it
Then seal with silicone
Its really difficult to get at the harness bung from below, I have a spare harness, but it seems the trans would probably need to be lowered, or a hole cut in the floor
The other alternative I have considered is drill a tiny hole high up in the AW4 case, feed wire, silicone up
I think the gasket feed is just going to be easiest, and fully reversible if it leaks, reconsider than
You really need the TCC working, trans is working way too hard without it
CF Veteran



Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 2,140
Likes: 582
From: SoCal
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Can use just unbolt the cross member and let the trans drop a bit to get more clearance (might have to loosen the motor mounts)? You know, like trying to get those dang CPS bolts or top bellhousing bolts out.
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CF Veteran




Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 725
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have to tow a trailer up the mountains on Saturday
This heats the trans up to 230C, and this would mainly be due to no TC lockup
The trailer will be heavily loaded, so I may just drop that pan, and be done for the moment...see if the ****er works
btw, if you drop the front driveshaft, and are limber such as myself, you can just reach up.(or down) and undo the CPS without to much issue..just always fill the space below with rags
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