I finally got tired of that popping sound every time I openned or closed the door. I know I'm not alone. The sound comes from a broken door check. If you don't know what that is, it is the thing between the door hinges that keeps the door from closing on you (Pictured below).

Replacement requires you remove two screws at the body holding the body side of the check. Then you must remove the door panel. The door side of the check is held onto the door by two bolts on the front exterior side of the door, but once disconnected, it must be removed through the inside of the door. The new one is installed in the oposite manor. No more creaking and popping sounds!

 

Awesome and thanks...........can't wait to git-r-done.

 

The popping is a worn pin and/or the bracket it goes through. An entire replacement door check is $$$. Go to the junk yard (tons of nice C4Cs) and remove the bracket and pins from the rear doors as they don't get much use. The creaking is the door check telling you it needs grease. I've done this a few times. Good as new and cost almost nothing.

PS- If it's just the pins that are worn, go to the hardware store and get some 1/4" roll pins, chrome if you can find them (lowes). Grease. Done.

 

Yeah, my driver's door pin is shot as it won't even hold the door open anymore.

 

My door roll pin broke I just used a 1\4 bolt seems to work ok.

 

How would you go about getting a good pin out without breaking it?

 

On mine, the rubber piece shown in the picture had completely dissinigrated. The pin was also shot. The whole thing had to be replaced. I had tried doing just the pin first, but if you have a loud clunk it might also be a bigger problem than a worn roll pin. I paid about $55 for a complete new check with all hardware. It works like new now and is well worth the money.

 

I've got the typically saggy door and the top hinge was rewelded on there, but there is about a 3/16th gap between the hinge and frame. I also get the clunk and creak. Do you guys think this would eliminate the clunk/creak? I just brought the striker up a little this morning to get rid of the gap on top. I was able to see through the gap and the noise from the wind got quite loud at 50 mph.

 

Your problem is hinge, door lock mechanism/strike plate alignment.

 

Eh, oh well. I'm not ripping it apart right now. It's too cold outside to cut and weld new hinges on. It's not like it's a show car or anything.

 

could i use the door check off of a another cherokee of the same year but take it off the rear door instead.

 

Yea, I'm pretty sure they are the same front and rear and obviously the rears get less use so it would be logical to use one of them instead of the drivers door.

 

Hey everyone, my first post, just got my 98 xj. it's my second cherokee, and 6th jeep. 90k original miles, so i'm pretty jazzed.

i know this is resurrecting an old thread on door checks. It appears the driver side rear door check will work for the driver door (from a junkyard for example). Do any of you know if the passenger rear check would work? I found one for $10....

I also just replaced the turn signal switch, fixed power windows (another post on this forum by using the jumper wire) and installed a new headunit and speakers.

Thanks in advance for all your help; i look forward to being able to contribute in the near future.

-CJ -Colorado

 

is there no good supplier of these on the web? looks like something we have to mine out of junkyards until they're all gone or pay $60 to someone who has salvaged it already.


I would also like to know if the rear door checks are usable on the front doors, as CJ asks above me.

 

The front and rear door checks are different lengths. The rear one is longer.

They are available online -
Click on the part numbers to search:

Front.... 55235571
Rear..... 55075259

I replaced mine with the newest ones I could find in the junk yard.
The clicking and popping is gone!