Hey all,
Just picked up a 2000 Sport with 162k on it for a good deal and had some questions if i may and a odd thing i can't figure out.

So i know it needs ball joints, sadly i think the drivers side was already done so they used knurled ones, though until i tear into it i can't be certain. Also gonna do the tie rod ends while im there and I'll check the joints though i have no clunking.
I know i need to at least bleed the brakes since it stops but the pedal goes down pretty far.

Rockers are eh at best , fenders were cut for off road things and to make room for 31's (Previous owner did this and not a half bad job, but those are the only 2 modifications )

No onto the weird part:\
After moving up and down my driveway testing 4 lo etc, the windows and wipers stopped working until i turned the car back on... wth. I know electronics and im boggled...lol Any suggestions and i will take all the advice i can get for my first Jeep
Thanks in advance!

First off..Welcome to Cherokee forum.

For the brakes,,, Re-adjust the rear brakes then bleed..good time to check how the pads are front and rear to see if you need new ones.

Vid on how to adjust.


Do an oil change and a radiator flush asap. Hows the oil psi?

Here is a thread you need to read about the 2000. Then you will know why I say oil change and rad flush.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/03...ig-deal-76842/


As for the wipers..hmmm Might of been a fluke or the switch it wonky.. Not sure.
I would start by cleaning and inspecting all the grounds for the Jeep and clean them up.

here is a thread to identify if you have a 0331 head.. or if it has been changed.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...1-head-225794/

If you do have the 0331..dont freak out, start looking for a a new one to replace it or you can play the game and see if it will go..up to you.

Welcome to the fun of owning a XJ...lol

Dumajones,
'Thanks for the quick response, and info! I will let you know about the head tomorrow. I ahve a ton of things to do on this to make it road ready, but i am excited

The radiator was flushed about a week ago, before i bought it. I will do a oil change asap!

Can i flush the heater core separately? The heat isn't bad but i know it could be better,

As far as the transfer case linkage goes whats recommended for lubricant? Mines a bit stiff.

Found this tonight, and of course the part is no longer available so i am gonna have to make my own. I mean i can right?
I also have to remove the rear wiper and check the motor, it made a journey from where it was in the back picture to about a 1/4 the way up and hasn't moved from there...lol

Also the previous owner went mudding so everything has dirt in it including the drivers mirror switch (btw both mirrors only adjust UP lol)

Thanks again!

Found this tonight, seems I'm gonna have to make my own may as well upgrade them all.

starter cable is frayed, hopefully I can fix it.

Yes, of course you can fix the battery cable. It's just a cable, so you can buy a new one at the local parts store and put a generic terminal on it. Or if you want to get fancy you can contact member XJWonders and get an excellent set up upgraded cables and replace everything.

Flush the heater core with a garden hose forwards and backwards - no high pressure, just regular hose. You flush it by removing the heater hoses at the core. I put a big trash bag in the engine compartment to direct the water to the ground and away from the various electrical connectors and the such.

There used to be a spray lubricant "Mobil1 synthetic spray lubricant" which was beyond awesome. They don't make it anymore unfortunately. You can use any number of lubricants on that linkage. Bear in mind that it's a pretty stiff mechanism in general and not nearly durable enough (especially if the Jeep has been wheeled a lot). There are excellent aftermarket replacements available.

Also on a random note - you're going to need to have bumper end caps in order to pass inspection. Fortunately you won't have to deal with emissions, but they're taking pictures of the front and rear of the vehicles now and even a less than ethical inspection shop won't be able to pass it without the end caps.

Yes you can flush the heater core on its own..

Yes you can make your own cables if you like.
Look up( making battery cables) on Y-T.

Thanks for the info, i was worried about that, i have the originals just gotta figure out how to mount them. Also i just found XJWonders last night and will be ordering a set soon. For now ill do a replacement so i don't have any no start issues.

Thanks you both for the heater core flush info, i'll let ya know how it goes. I will also look into aftermarket linkage anything else for the transfer case i should check?

I just had this issue, never knew about it till I had the spicers in there falling out under their own weight, good you're on top of it =]


Good to know! I just took mine off, glad I kept them...

Maybe drain and refill the T-case??? Just so it has fresh good stuff in there..Alot of ppl dont give the T-case much love..lol
if you do a t-case refill, loosen up the top bolt first before the drain..you dont need a stuck top bolt when you have already drained out fluid by the bottom


And promise that if you ever do a transmission drain and refill,,that you do not use ATF4..use only DEX/MERC atf.

This is the stuff.. The AW4 was not designed to use atf4.. Some parts store geeks will tell you different,,but please trust me..
https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...s/dex-merc-atf.


And please anything but a fram filter.. Go with Napa gold, motorcraft or a wix filter.. Me i love Wix.

Frams have been known to give dry starts on the XJ do to crappy anti drain back valves.. The rubber gets stiff (cheap rubber) and wont seal good.
causing dry starts..

Did you check to verify the ball joints?
If you need to redo the ball joints, I would suggest going the extra mile while you have the spindles off ...and pulling the axles and re-doing the outer u-joints on the front axle. It's kind of a big job, but since you're already in there, it would be a good time to do it. They could start going out any time ...or they may last another 50k miles. It's not a job for a very mechanically inclined person.

Yeah, it was a shock to me - my inspection shop is pretty lenient and they couldn't pass mine until I had bumper end caps on both the front and back due to the photo requirement.
The P.O. of my 95 welded a steel bar as a front bumper, so I pulled the bumper off my old TJ and put it on. It had the plastic end caps so that was fine for the front, but since the P.O. had also removed the rear caps (otherwise it was the OEM bumper) I had to buy and install a pair of crown brand end-caps just to pass.

No worries I promise to treat the trans and transfercase with care I hate fram as well, Wix sounds solid to me!

You know i just noticed today at full lock while moving slowly the front shuddered and almost felt like it was gonna stall, i bet those joints are going (162k and no mention if they were changed) I figure if i have the press i may as well do them, illl have help with the pass side Also i notice a loud clink once in a while when i turn the wheel , is that the tie rods or something else?

See now i am worried as my fenders were cut (not by me), I can make the back ones work with some rivets and probably the front but im gonna need to fab some edge stuff and well the rockers are gonna need love lol

So i have another body issue im concerned about, the fdrivers door top hings is separating from the weld. i know it can be fixed but as it sits the top of the door doesn't seal so i may put a piece of rubber strip there to seal it until i get the hinge welded.

Also checked and i can't read the inside of my head to see if it was ever replaced with a tuppy (sp?), just some gunk in there but the coolant level is good and my oil isn't milky. Not a concern really but i am checking all known issues...lol

Plat e light is out and of course the screws are so rusted they are falling apart so that's gonna be a fun project. Some easy outs should work if not ill get a new assembly from a donor.

Thanks all, it's not my first time with cars but it is my first 4x4 and Jeep so i may ask simple questions to you but i like learn so again thank you for your patience!

List as of now:
Ball joints
Tie rod ends
track bar (just because)
brakes (bleed first as i found out the PO had replaced a brake line and didn't get a chance to bleed it)
ujoints on the axles and possibly the ones on the drive shafts
transfer case drain /fill
oil change
some body work for inspection
fix the damn plate light
figure out the rear wiper half wipe issue...lol
and seal the drivers door for now'
phew!

So my last post was moderated because i had my VPN on lol hope it gets approved.

I will take care of the trans and tcase Using proper fluids and filter!

The ujoints haven't been confirmed but there is a shake/shudder thing when i go full lock but it could be the 31's i'll check them out.

I love mass laws...lol I'll get them on maybe even buy a new rear bumper so the caps fit, right now i cannot get my plate light out due to 2 rusted screws so i gotta fight with that.

The list grows...lol

At least we're not in CA and have to worry about all the freakin' emissions laws. There are guys on here that in the last few months have had all kinds of headaches because their 20 year old truck is like %20-%50 over just one of the categories -- ridiculous!

For the license screws, you may end up needing to drill them out - which will be a good time to start your collection of drill bits and easy-outs which as an owner of an old Jeep are a necessary part of your tool collection.
Whenever I've got rusty or damaged hardware I always take a trip to the local Ace hardware and attempt to find suitable replacements (preferably stainless steel if it's not a high grade fastener).

Jeez that is crazy! Guess we are not so bad...lol

Ez outs are a staple for me, mine have just gone missing. Before i got my 13' Jetta GLI (my daily atm) I had a 01' outback and a 03' Baja so i know the rusted screw story far too well...lol I am just hoping to avoid breaking things that are no longer in production...sigh

Another weird light thing, so i put on the hazards, and everything works except the pass side front blinkers were just solid ...lol So i tune them off turn on the blinker alone its fine, then the hazard worked... god i love old electronics!

OH one last thing i found is the drivers side top hinge is separating at the weld which i have read is common sadly it means the top of my door doesn't seal... i can see light...lol Is there supposed to be weatherstrip there?

SO here is my list so far:
Ball joints
tie rod ends
track bar
(sway bar end links are brand new)
Possibly u joints
bleed brakes and check condition
Oil and diff and tcase change
tuneup
fix the plate bulb
figure out the CEL
ROCKER REPAIR (could i get away with rock sliders?) Or should i just do cosmetic to pass then really get into it)
Bumper caps