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fan clutch

Old Sep 11, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #46  
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There really is no shroud? That took 45 posts? Well, we left a little room for improvement!
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #47  
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A fan shroud isn't gonna stop me from over heating in 20mins.. yes it will keep me a a little cooler for a little longer, but in the end she's still gonna over heat, there's something more then that..
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 11:45 PM
  #48  
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I shouldn't have come off that way. It IS an important part. It won't suck air through the radiator very well without it. That said, me coming off condescending is no help! Best luck to you. D.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by AZ_OFF-RD
.....id rather spend the 20$ on a head gasket, then 100+ on the rad. But whatever.
I believe someone recently post that they had their rad rodded out and the rad shop charged $35. Seems like removing the head would be way more labor intensive than removing the rad.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #50  
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Im pretty mechanicaly inclined, sand have access to lots of tools
..I've done head gaskets before so not to bad of a job.

But ill def check into getting it rodded out.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 11:46 AM
  #51  
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.....then removing/installing the rad shouldn't take u more than an hour or 2.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by djb383
222F+ still sounds a little toasty.
My GC ZJ I6 runs at 230F (110 celsius) on the gauge (temperatur sender), but the temperature in the thermostate house is 190F (85-90 celsius) (temperatur sensor). I have replaced radiator, thermostate, fan clutch, temperatur sender and cheked the waterpump (i have a new one, but the one in there is almost new and 100% working). I have tested the coolant for exhaust so there isnt any leak there. Its not any oil in the coolant and there isnt any water in the oil. I know the temperatur sender and sensor are correct (i have measured them in boiling water). I can open the radiator cap after driving and there isnt any steam there, i can measure the water in the radiator with a oven cooking thermometer and it reads arround 185F (80-85 celsius). I have flusehed the coolant system 2-3 times. I think i will fix the "problem" by mounting the temperatur sender somewhere closer to the sensor, maybe on the hose to the heater.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:57 PM
  #53  
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Maybe your gauge is wacked?.....40 degree difference between one end of the head and the other doesn't seem right.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Maybe your gauge is wacked?.....40 degree difference between one end of the head and the other doesn't seem right.
No, the gauge is correct, i have measured that to. If i use a variabel pot and use same ohm as the sender has in boiling water, it shows 100 celsius. Maybe there is a air pocket at the sender, but i dont think so since it only came coolant out of the hole when i took the sender out and pressed gently on the radiator hose.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #55  
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Got access to one of those point-n-shoot infrared temp guns? I think those things are handy as a pocket on a shirt.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 11:20 PM
  #56  
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Took me like 20 mins or less to get the radiator out. Gonna take it into a shop tomorrow. It looks nice and clean, but well see.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #57  
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My rad is fine..just as expected.. how do I burp the system? I didn't do that before and that could be a problem im guessing? I have a 99 too.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #58  
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Fill it up, leave cap off, let it idle, keep it full, when coolant starts to come out top of rad, put cap on, fill recovery bottle about 1/2 way. Check level in both rad and bottle (ENGINE COLD) for next several days, add coolant if necessary.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #59  
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Do I keep the heater on while idling?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #60  
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Shouldn't make any difference on a '99 (no heater control valve) but wouldn't hurt.
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