No. You told him to remove his manifolds.
That kind of irresponsible posting, that could cause another member time and money, is not tolerated here.

 

If the vacuum leak is caused by a blown manifold / gasket or it's broken, causing the rough idle and vacuum leak, don't pull your manifolds off and check it yourself. Take it to a shop that will charge you hundreds of dollars for a $20 manifold gasket or even more for the manifolds themselves. got it, my apologies for attempting to help someone that doesn't know where there problem is coming from. I didn't know my actions of attempting to help would be "not tolerated here"

 

Nope. You told him to remove his manifolds. He doesn't need to do all that crap you replied with, like taking it to a shop. He needs a $2 can of carb cleaner. Get it?

 

We won't stand by while poor suggestions are given to unsuspecting members. We have a responsibility to help others, not throw out random things unnecessarily. THINK before you post. If that doesnt work for you, expect the same reaaction from moderators here.

 

Well hopefully there's not a problem with his manifold or the gasket, because trying to make and replace a manifold with a $2 can of carb cleaner would be an absolute waste of time

 

Bull****. Your ignorance is really showing now. Using carb cleaner to spray on suspected vacuum leaks with the engine running is a tried and true method used for decades.

 

Hey guys, I am having the same sort of issues. My idle was low and the 2kxj would almost stall out when I stopped. On some days at cold start and a bit of idle time I could give it gas and quickly step on the brake to stop and then it would just stall completely but, always started back up. Now, I am a noob of course but, I replaced my TPS and my IACV because they were throwing the codes for them. After I cleaned the throttle body, changed out the TPS, and changed the IACV (which the damn thing should come with a warning to not over FREAKING TIGHTEN) it is a completely different xj. It wants to run. Idles at 2200 rpms. Now I am very aware that this isn't normal. I am going to look into running carb spray at my lines tonight. However, it doesn't really want to go past 50mph. I really have to let on the gas. I have more than one issue I know. Light is still on. I may have to go ahead and just buy a code reader. My friend is tired of lending me his. So, in all my xj is idling at 2200rpms runs in gear at about 1100 rpms. Doesn't want to stop when I apply the brakes, labors to run above 50mph, has a noticeable chug and I also believe that I have lifters tapping like Fred Astaire. I'm new to all of this. Where do I start??? Oh, almost forgot, my oil gauge is topping out. Has been for a few weeks. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I dont remember the technical term for it, but WD40 and some other lubricants/antisieze solvents, are "?????" (dust collecting.) This is like ArmorAll brand trim/detailer sprays. They look great when fresh, but collect more dust than it ever would without it.

Some lubricants do not cause this. Often going to be more expensive, but not much and certainly worth it in my opinion.

 

Code readers are pretty inexpensive these days and are a great tool to have. Some guys on here run live data on phone/tablet apps. If you're interested in going that far, search for posts from Jordan96xj.

Having the code is extremely helpful in getting targeted information, but definitely do the carb cleaner check as Cruiser so firmly advises.

 

I am just catching up on old threads that I had posted to, and didn't see that this one turned into a mud-slinger. At the risk of picking a scab, I'll pipe in again...

My situation definitely included a cracked exhaust manifold at the collector. It was obvious with just two of the best tools available - a brain and a sense of touch. Hot exhaust gases could be felt escaping at the failed joints. Regardless of the engine performance, a cracked exhaust system has to be addressed. Carbon Monoxide is a killer, and having an exhaust leak anywhere but the tailpipe is asking for trouble. So, fix it I did.

And, fixing the exhaust leak immediately improved engine performance, specifically the idle problems. This isn't hard to fathom, actually. Even a '93 XJ has an O2 sensor, and data from it becomes integral to the engine tuning by the ECM. When exhaust is blowing out of the manifold upstream of the O2 sensor things go confusing. The ECM was trying to adjust. The result, fast idle.

Fix the exhaust leak.