Take it to the car wash, spray some degreaser on the engine, and wash it all down. Drive it home and check under the hood and underneath to check where the leak is coming from. You don't need to lift it to check underneath.

X2 on the compression check

 

I'll check the air filter when I go back to school but a week or 2 ago it was kinda dirty but not enough for me to change it.

I did the oil change. I'm 95% sure I took the I ring off. I prefer to do my own stuff unless it's a really dirty job or I don't have the tools.

I don't trust most repair places. I've had most try to screw me over. Hundreds of dollars for a 75$ repair.

 

I'll clean it tomorrow.

Air filter is dirty from oil. It's in like stripes. I've never seen anything like it

 

I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

 

I will clean the engine and go from there. Probably heading to my parents this weekend. I'll get back with any details about where she's leaking.

Thanks for the help.

 

Since you can do your own basic repairs, just buy a compression gauge and do it yourself. You're capable. It will be cheaper the first time (the gauge is less $$ than paying someone to test it), and free any time after that.

 

So today I decided to look at my jeep. I have nothing to really say. Radiator/ coolant is kinda brownish. But not 2 gallons of oil worth. I did find a really oily area right in front if the transmission. Pictures are hopefully attached.

It leaked down from above the transmission. Once again I don't think it would cause it to leak like this.

I still plan on doing a compression test.

 

Another thing I should mention. It idles at about 600 rpm. It used to be more. I don't recall what it was but I'm sure it was faster. I still have enough power that I haven't noticed a loss in power.

This may be a useless fact.

 

You really need to do what has already been mentioned. Take it to a car wash, spray it with engine degreaser really good (every place that oil may be leaking from and lower).Blast all the oily areas with the high pressure wand. Then drive a short distance,and then lay under it with a flashlight and see for yourself where the leak is coming from,(you can lay on cardboard or a tarp). It will be obvious at that point.

 

I will do that this weekend. I can do it for free then instead of paying a car wash.

I got gunk or something like that from autozone.

 

My dad says it's the rear main seal. He doesn't want me to do anything like that in his garage. The cheapest quote so far is $300 plus the seal. I'm not putting that money into it. Bought for 800$ and I've put 500$ into repairs so far and know there's lots more.

Anyone know of any ways to slow down the leak?

When my dad's grand cherokee had a coolant leak he poured some fluid with metal shavings into the coolant and it stopped the leak for a few months.

Anyone know of anything like this? The jeep just has to last til summer when I can ride my bike.

 

Yeah, pour metal shavings in your engine...


Verify it's the RMS before you do anything.

And, $300 plus the seal isn't a bad deal.

 

I know it sounds like a terrible idea. But it worked for the coolant. So a similar thing might work. It's a long shot though.

It's also $300 I can't really/don't want to afford at the moment.

 

Well life is all about choices lol.

Put metal in the oil and let us know how that works!

 

Did you see the post I made earlier?

YOU don't need anyone else to tell you where the leak is. No disrespect for your Dad, but read this again.





I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013