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Exhaust manifold replacement advice

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Old 04-16-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dzywicki View Post
One tip I"ll pass on for when you put everything back together. You will need to remove the intake as well. When you put it back together, put the bolts/washers in the hole prior to putting the intake manifold back on. I tried for a long time to to get them in after the intake was in place and got really frustrated. I finally figured out you can put them in and then set the intake manifold on top of them and then start tightening them.
Another tip is to make 100% sure you get the intake onto the cylinder head dowels. If the engine revs up when you start, you most likely missed the intake positioning on the dowels. It can feel like it is in the right place, but actually sitting on top of the dowels.
I have replaced the exhaust manifold on both of my XJs (98 and 99) and was able to reuse the hardware with no issues. I have had the fuel line disconnect off several times on both XJs and have never replaced the orings. I highly recommend getting a fuel line disconnect tool for when you remove it. That will save you a ton of time. I bought the metal set from harbor freight and it has worked great.
Is there a good way to know for sure that the intake is sitting correctly on the dowels?
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post

And, remove the air cleaner assembly to allow better access.
Absolutely. I just had it off when doing my coolant flush - I can't imagine trying to get at the manifolds with it in the way.

Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
Let me know how using a torque wrench works for ya.....

Use the sequence for sure. But getting a torque wrench up there? Ha!!

I've never used one there.
As much as I'd love to properly torque everything to exact spec - I feel like what will happen in reality is that I'll hit the most accessible ones with the torque wrench to get a feel for the proper torque, and then on the awkward ones, I'll tighten to the best guess.

17ft/lbs and 23ft/lbs is a lot lower than I would have guessed. I'll have to break out the small torque wrench to go under 20.

What is the risk of going slightly over on these bolts? I can't imagine the fasteners will snap off in the 20 ft/lb range, would they?
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:42 AM
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i used a dremel to clean the intake ports on mine haha and a stiff bristle brush with dawn dish soap on the rest of it.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:27 AM
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I torqued all my bolts to 29 ft/lbs in the proper order, then went back around and tightened a couple more ugga duggas in the correct pattern. Works well. The idea being that you still follow the pattern even if youíre not torquing to spec
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:50 PM
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interesting tread with good information and lots of tips

the extentions setting off torque specifinations
conical washers
fuel rail aside with line still connected
dowel line up
and a lot more..

marc

lots of things i didnt think of yet while in near future doing my 88 xj manifold

edit: how did you go through this or are you still in the middle of doing it ? any other tips you might run into ?
when you go this deep do you replace your freeze plugs too ?

Last edited by LadyKenai; 04-16-2018 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:13 PM
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I haven't started this. I'm hoping to do it this Sat, but that will depend on whether my parents are around to watch the kids.
I will report back after completion with how it went.

There's another thread on flange thickness with the aftermarket manifolds and there being potential problems. The OP on that thread used washers to level the flanges, so I'm anticipating having to do something similar.
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:07 AM
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oh ok

i'll be reading it then.. good luck!

marc
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:02 AM
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Ok Iím going to suggest a few things. Donít remove the injectors or the fuel rail. Just disconnect the fuel line. Itíll be out of the way and you can remove the intake as one assembly.

Donít overthink it. Itís really not that hard of a job. Should take about 3 hours as long as you donít break any bolts/studs. I keep an extra set on hand. Some headers allow you to get an extension on all of the bolts so itís easy to remove and install. Some do not.

If you do end up with the header contacting the intake manifold grind away some of the manifold and start bashing the exhaust runner to get it all to fit.
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PatHenry View Post
Is there a good way to know for sure that the intake is sitting correctly on the dowels?
What I finally did was to test fit just the intake and see where it lines up to the top of the cylinder head. And you can try to wiggle it around to make sure it's on the dowels. I tested everything 3 times before I figured out it wasn't on the dowels. Once you know where it needs to line up with respect to the head then you can put the exhaust in place, put those middle lower manifold bolts in and thens et the intake on top of those. Easy from there.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Photojared View Post
Ok Iím going to suggest a few things. Donít remove the injectors or the fuel rail. Just disconnect the fuel line. Itíll be out of the way and you can remove the intake as one assembly.

Donít overthink it. Itís really not that hard of a job. Should take about 3 hours as long as you donít break any bolts/studs. I keep an extra set on hand. Some headers allow you to get an extension on all of the bolts so itís easy to remove and install. Some do not.

If you do end up with the header contacting the intake manifold grind away some of the manifold and start bashing the exhaust runner to get it all to fit.
I'm looking at it as whichever seems easier when I actually get to doing it will be the direction I go.

I've just never done this before, so I want to gather as much advice as I can so it will go smoothly.

I'm hoping that I don't have to go so far as cutting and grinding on the manifolds, but if it comes to that - so be it.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dzywicki View Post
What I finally did was to test fit just the intake and see where it lines up to the top of the cylinder head. And you can try to wiggle it around to make sure it's on the dowels. I tested everything 3 times before I figured out it wasn't on the dowels. Once you know where it needs to line up with respect to the head then you can put the exhaust in place, put those middle lower manifold bolts in and thens et the intake on top of those. Easy from there.
That's a great idea - I will definitely be using that trick to get a feel for how it is supposed to sit before putting everything back together. Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:08 PM
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I came up with another question: The write-up I'm using mentions using high-temp thread sealant on the manifold bolts. There is no reference to this in the FSM.

What is the recommendation - use thread sealer or not?
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:27 PM
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Never have used sealant on them and never will. There is no reason to use it cause its not really sealing off anything.
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:44 PM
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Sorry, sloppy with my terms - High temp thread locker.
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Old 04-18-2018, 03:57 PM
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Still a no from me...
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