Exhaust header, steam clean and Kroil
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
if you're also up here, I'd be glad to get a link to your product.
here's what it looks like for me:
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i understand the value aspect of it, but at 50$ for a single can, no thanks. i have no doubt it's that much better, but reading other posts online people seem to say it's way easier to source your own mix than to get kroil, hence why i'm wondering if it's worth it.
i'll try my luck with an acetone/atf homebrew mix. at the junkyard i was able to get every bolt and one of the 2 stud out and only pb blasted once 10 minutes before starting the job.
i'll try my luck with an acetone/atf homebrew mix. at the junkyard i was able to get every bolt and one of the 2 stud out and only pb blasted once 10 minutes before starting the job.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 18
From: Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
For the skeptics, there's nothing wrong with PB Blaster. It probably works in 95% or more of the situations where Kroil works. The problem is that one time in three or four years when PB Blaster isn't going to cut it, and you end up breaking a bolt or ruining a part. That's when it suddenly becomes worth it to have spent $20 on an 8 oz can of Kroil.
The homebrew ATF+solvent solutions are supposed to work really well, but Kroil is a known quantity. And there's no reason you can't have PB Blaster, Kroil and your own homebrew on the shelf all at the same time.
ETA: I just checked, and if you order it directly from Kano, the 8 oz. can is half Amazon's price. Aerokroil is $3 cheaper also. I'm not sure what their shipping policy is, but you'd probably save money ordering direct even if you end up paying for ground shipping.
Last edited by extrashaky; Jun 29, 2016 at 04:15 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 93
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There was a very good article written about the efficacy of these various products. And, by a wide margin, the 2 most effective were the Kroil and the homebrew ATF+solvent (I believe kerosene was popular thinner but I can't remember for certain). They compared various wait-times and torque measurements required to break free various fasteners under some variety of controlled conditions.
After using it for some time, and comparing it to what I have seen ATF and kerosene behave like in my garage, my guess is that it is just a very good and consistent version of that homebrew with perhaps a few other goodies in it. But it sure does have similar characteristics.
For anyone that has never tried it, I would just say try to get the smallest can of it somewhere if you can. My other oils have literally not been touched since I used this the first couple of times. It simply outperforms them, is nicer to work with, and it gets in between stuff so small and so fast, that I rarely need to use more than just one tiny spray. Because instead of running around the void and ending up on the floor, it seeps in almost completely.
After using it for some time, and comparing it to what I have seen ATF and kerosene behave like in my garage, my guess is that it is just a very good and consistent version of that homebrew with perhaps a few other goodies in it. But it sure does have similar characteristics.
For anyone that has never tried it, I would just say try to get the smallest can of it somewhere if you can. My other oils have literally not been touched since I used this the first couple of times. It simply outperforms them, is nicer to work with, and it gets in between stuff so small and so fast, that I rarely need to use more than just one tiny spray. Because instead of running around the void and ending up on the floor, it seeps in almost completely.
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