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Exhaust Header longevity, help!

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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 01:26 AM
  #1  
J-Rodien's Avatar
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From: st. louis aria
Year: 1995
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Default Exhaust Header longevity, help!

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum stuff but I'm trying to get to the bottom of a pesky little common jeep problem and get some input for a bonafide solution. I just bought a 95 jeep Cherokee over a mouth ago, I've been wanting one for some time now and for now its mostly stock, in time given $$ for mods this is going to be my "f%&k the world i can go anywhere i want" project vehicle. but that's another discussion, Anyway to the point... My exhaust manifold is broken at the collector big surprise there

I'm sure all 4.0 jeep owners are aware of the "exhaust manifold issue" with these and i have read countless forums for options between different brand names of headers and even going back to stock headers (tubular manifold) with expansion coils as a cure. I've heard good and bad and bad on top of good... The "gear head" in me I would prefer to put a True header on this but it seems that no matter what you get, they all crack. I don't want to spend 4-500 bucks on a fancy header that's just going to last 2 years and then crack. Warranty's don't mean anything to me if i have to be constantly using it. I want one last a good long time with out any issues... So if i cant find a good quality header with in a reasonable price i guess ill just settle with stock manifolds with coils since they seem to be lasting to longest...not in all cases of course but it seems to be the safest option by far for the money...

As far as feedback what Id like to know is: Who has non factory headers or manifold?, Whats the brand?, How long since you installed and what provisions you took to make them last so long.. Two years or less need not apply your still in the danger zone. I'm looking for longevity specifically in the performance line... Does it exist out there?

I've read many say they're happy with their Banks, Borla, Gibson, Pacesetter, JBA, and Dormans but no positive feed back years later on how they're holding up... Seems to me Banks and Borla, though most popular, are getting the worst reputations of all... are they really that bad??? lets get to the bottom of this... What do you all think???
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 05:46 AM
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Jba won't crack,I don't have one on a jeep but i have ran their headers on a mustang for years no problems at all.Jba uses a thicker header flange so it won't crack and won't flex with heat.
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 08:07 AM
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
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I haven't been around Jeeps that long, so maybe other people can chime in, but from what I've seen on my 00 XJ, I think it's a problem with not having any flex in the rest of the exhaust system too, not just the header. I'm sure the header not being able to move is one problem because it's so long, but if there was a nice flex section in the down pipe (pipe between end of the header and the main cat) it would help some of the cracking problems.




Looks like this, for reference.

That said, a quality name brand header will certainly last longer than a cheap eBay one.
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 11:00 AM
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Its one of those areas where you bet what you pay for and that can be costly. A Banks meets your desires plus no rust all stainless but over budget I'm afraid.
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
Jba won't crack,I don't have one on a jeep but i have ran their headers on a mustang for years no problems at all.Jba uses a thicker header flange so it won't crack and won't flex with heat.
Well 6 pipes tied in to one collector is different from 3 or 4. I haven't heard much feedback on JBA but I have seen plenty of pics of JBA style headers with cracks at he collector. So once agien I'm indifferent
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 03:36 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by t.mcginley.jr
I haven't been around Jeeps that long, so maybe other people can chime in, but from what I've seen on my 00 XJ, I think it's a problem with not having any flex in the rest of the exhaust system too, not just the header. I'm sure the header not being able to move is one problem because it's so long, but if there was a nice flex section in the down pipe (pipe between end of the header and the main cat) it would help some of the cracking problems.




Looks like this, for reference.

That said, a quality name brand header will certainly last longer than a cheap eBay one.
I've looked in to this and I plan to not only add a flex pipe before the converter, I also plan to put some support brackets to all components before the flex pipe to eliminate the weight of the whole exhaust from the header, but there's still that factor of heat expansion that I need to remedy...
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
Its one of those areas where you bet what you pay for and that can be costly. A Banks meets your desires plus no rust all stainless but over budget I'm afraid.
Well hell I'd be willing to spend 400+ for a good name header with a good reputation but Banks or Borla are not looking so good... I like to hear from someone with 5+ years on a good name header that might make up my mind...
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 11:57 PM
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JBA style and true JBA are two different things,All JBA have a metal tag welded on them if its not there its a knock off brand.The thing is you won't find many that have ran a header for 5 years.The xj is a cheap off roader most get used abused and thrown away.Most will buy the cheapest header they can because of a tight budget and the cheap header cracks over time.
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 12:53 AM
  #9  
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I've heard the cracking is a result of a soft or damaged L/H engine mount rubber.

Ive been through two different designs. The OEM that lasted almost 15 years cracked before the collector
Then an aftermarket with the metal bellows on cyl 1 & 6 cracked in the same place.
Discovered the destroyed L/H engine and replaced with another aftermarket 3-2-1 header.

We'll see how long this one lasts
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 03:37 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by MtnGoat
I've heard the cracking is a result of a soft or damaged L/H engine mount rubber.

Ive been through two different designs. The OEM that lasted almost 15 years cracked before the collector
Then an aftermarket with the metal bellows on cyl 1 & 6 cracked in the same place.
Discovered the destroyed L/H engine mount and replaced with another aftermarket 3-2-1 header.

We'll see how long this one lasts
BINGO! It's not the header. It's the Motor Mounts. To prevent header cracking, BUY a set of Brown Dog Motor Mounts first.

The header is fixed at the head and at the trans crossmount. The crossover pipe conneced at the header flange and at the trans crossmount is a long 'Lever arm' on the exhaust. The header won't crack at the head flange or 6 tubes, but crack at the weakest point, the collector. With bad motor mounts, the engine can move and shift L, R, up and down, up to 1"+. When the engine moves, just think what happens to the exhaust. It is forced to flex and crack. 'Flexy pipes' are just a bandaid. Thicker, stronger built headers are just a bandaid. You need to keep the motor from moving.

Every time you start, drive, accelerate, etc, you move the engine and stress the collector.

3 XJs, bought with 135-150k, all with cracked headers when bought, replaced with Gibson, Rugged Ridge and ebay stock-like headers and Brown Dog Motor mounts and So far not a single failure.
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #11  
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The Banks have a lifetime warranty on there header. As fad as the Brown Dog mounts I had a set on and removed them both sets the poly and rubber didn't like all the vibs with them. Went back to a factory OEM mount the first ones lasted a long time I'll see how long these last, I don't beat mine to death off road with the skinny peddle.


BTW I still have my factory manifold on my XJ and no leaks 237,000 mi.
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Old Oct 8, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CobraMarty
BINGO! It's not the header. It's the Motor Mounts. To prevent header cracking, BUY a set of Brown Dog Motor Mounts first.

The header is fixed at the head and at the trans crossmount. The crossover pipe conneced at the header flange and at the trans crossmount is a long 'Lever arm' on the exhaust. The header won't crack at the head flange or 6 tubes, but crack at the weakest point, the collector. With bad motor mounts, the engine can move and shift L, R, up and down, up to 1"+. When the engine moves, just think what happens to the exhaust. It is forced to flex and crack. 'Flexy pipes' are just a bandaid. Thicker, stronger built headers are just a bandaid. You need to keep the motor from moving.

Every time you start, drive, accelerate, etc, you move the engine and stress the collector.

3 XJs, bought with 135-150k, all with cracked headers when bought, replaced with Gibson, Rugged Ridge and ebay stock-like headers and Brown Dog Motor mounts and So far not a single failure.
GREAT ADVICE! thank you i found them here, a little pricey but look super tough:

http://browndogindustries.com/SU2572...nting-Kit.aspx

I think I'm still going to take the other precautions too just as insurance and I'm still on the fence with header options but all the advice is helpful thank you all. any additional advice is still welcomed too...

andrewmp6 your advice and other good reviews Ive read have me nearly sold on JBA:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Performan...38kaAl6f8P8HAQ

but MtnGoat you got me thinking maybe I should go mopar stock. 15 years with no cracking, thats a long track maybe mopar did something different from the factory or simply,/(round circle) all the blame really is do to worn motor mounts...

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../04883385.html

One question for Fred/NOAZZ, did you get the rubber motor mounts or the polyurethane? Apparently the rubber is recommended for the cherokees because of the unibody vibrations...
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 04:50 AM
  #13  
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You did make me do some digging and i did find some JBA's cracked from different stuff.Most was on newer stuff and didn't like paying a shop to install them,Which made me think did they torque them 3 times like you should.What i was told and do is torque them once drive it get them hot and cool off torque them again and do it a week later.I have never had a problem out of any brand header doing that but for me dragging long tube headers on speed bumpers but thats my fault tho.If your worried about cracking get banks they have the longest warranty JBA is only a year.

Last edited by andrewmp6; Oct 9, 2015 at 04:53 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 10:22 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by J-Rodien
GREAT ADVICE! thank you i found them here, a little pricey but look super tough:

http://browndogindustries.com/SU2572...nting-Kit.aspx

I think I'm still going to take the other precautions too just as insurance and I'm still on the fence with header options but all the advice is helpful thank you all. any additional advice is still welcomed too...

andrewmp6 your advice and other good reviews Ive read have me nearly sold on JBA:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Performan...38kaAl6f8P8HAQ

but MtnGoat you got me thinking maybe I should go mopar stock. 15 years with no cracking, thats a long track maybe mopar did something different from the factory or simply,/(round circle) all the blame really is do to worn motor mounts...

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../04883385.html

One question for Fred/NOAZZ, did you get the rubber motor mounts or the polyurethane? Apparently the rubber is recommended for the cherokees because of the unibody vibrations...

I tried both of the Brown Dog mounts and went back to a OEM one but that's just me. My old ones were broken and worn out engine and trans but my stock 99 exhaust header was still in good shape.
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