I am in the process of getting the 99+ intake mani, bored TB, intake, and neon injectors.

My exhaust is starting to form hair line cracks and i'm looking to get a replacement.

Has anyone bought this one before? It may be cheap but comes with a 1 year warrenty.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-98-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-4-0L-Exhaust-Manifold-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efe22ab15QQitemZ27 0551657237QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories

 

I would just go with the APN header from ineedparts.com considering it has a lifetime warranty. If it ever cracks, you get a new one for free. It happened to forum member FrankZ and they sent him a new one. Here's the link http://www.ineedparts.com/index.php?...roduct_id=1690 . If you're using the APN header with a 99 intake manifold, you'll need to do a little fabrication. Cylinder 6 intersects on the manifolds and makes it so it doesn't seat properly. It causes a vacuum leak and makes it idle extremely high. To fix it, you need to grind a little off the intake manifold and dent in the cylinder 6 exhaust tube a little. One guy on here heated it first with a propane torch to make it soft and just gave it one little tap with a hammer to bend it in and he said it worked great. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

Looks like they have a better design for a cheaper price too.

http://www.ineedparts.com/index.php?...oduct_id=15343

 

i didn't have to dent the 6th runner. i just ground the casting break on the first and ground some off the 6th.

 

Can you go a little further into detail on this? Or is it pretty obvious when I actually have the manifold in my hands?

 

fit it, check it, take it off and regrind it. when you put it on, put your hand to where you feel contact, and you'll see where you need to shave. USE A COARSE FILE. very coarse. wait till tomorrow and i'll try to take some pics.

 

Ok thank you very much. I was just going to use my bench grinder or dremmel.

 

aluminum will glaze that wheel in a heartbeat. your general purpose grinding wheel is not designed for soft metals.

 

Alright, thanks for the tip

 

keep checking the thickness of the runner with one finger in the manifold and other on the grind spot. you don't wanna ruin a perfectly good manifold by grinding a hole on it. if it does happen, don't get creative, PM me and i'll help you fix it.

 

That's the one I was looking for in the first place. I just couldn't find it when I first posted. There are a few write ups around the internet about fitting a 99 intake manifold with an APN header. Just google it and you'll find something to help you out.

 

Cool beans. I believe that i'll be adding it to the list. Considering getting it jet hot coated. I'm not a huge fan of bare metal headers or exhaust manifolds. My exhaust mani in my mazda is coated and i'm so thankful it came that way.

 

if you increase the thickness of the header, it will not seal right. intake and exhaust manifolds get bolted down with the same fasteners. if thicknesses are different the washer will not apply equal pressure to both of them. you will already have to turn the washers upside down. you'll know what i'm talking about when you get there.

 

I see. I don't think that the coating would be too much of a differnce. It would be the same as running a header with a slightly thicker flange. I have read the edelbrock header has an extremely thick flange.

 

it will probably be fine. keep us posted with your progress. i did a whole writeup of how to change the headers. look for a post named "one nasty manifold".