have pulled and replaced engines over 100 times on 60-70's muscle cars and some early AMC jeeps.
99.9% had engine mounts the had bolts that would "drop" into holes in the cross member.
The XJ is a PIA,, once you pull the long bolt that holds the engine mount to the frame mount, the engine has to come straight up 4-5" the clear the mounts, but it cant because the rear hits the fire wall. Forget trying to install an engine with the tranny still on.


What is the secret to removing/installing a XJ 4.0 engine???


Slack

 

I have never changed a Jeep engine but the first thing which comes to mind is: can you lower the tail shaft well down and then pivot the front of the engine upwards? Basically take the engine out nose first? Maybe stand it up on jack stands. (Or a lift if you have one). To get room to lower the tailshaft low enough?

PHM
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I assume you have removed the front? If not, you'll want to remove the front crossmemeber, then the radiator. You can move the condenser out of the way. Once you get all that removed, then do as the previous poster said and remove the transmission support crossmember. that way the back end will tilt down and make it easier to maneuver the engine. I have only removed the engine without the trans. If you go the route of separating the transmission, you will curse the engineer that used the inverse torx bolts on top of the transmission. It's an E12 IIRC. They are a pain.

 

I have pulled 2 from XJ's I parted, on both I pulled the front end (grill, rad, condenser)
My concern is putting an engine back in with the trans on there,, it will never clear the motor mounts, then drop straight down on them.

 

Take the motor mounts off and you shouldnt have to lift the engine quite as high. When it comes to engine/transmission swaps, the smallest bit of clearance can make all the difference. Once you get the engine and transmission where they need to be, lift up on the engine as if you were just replacing bad motor mounts and tighten them down, along with the transmission mount.

 

FB,
Thanks. yeah there was no way of sliding in a the engine and trans and lowering it straight down on the mounts. The trans would have it cocked down on to much of an angle to allow the mounts to line up.


Slack

 

Pull radiator only.

Undo the mounts from the frame. Leave the crossbolts in. Easy.

I've done dozens of them that way.

 

That's what I noted on mine. It only needs to be lifted about an inch and a half to be free if you leave them attached to the engine and separate them at the frame instead.

 

Yup. Too easy. No need to pull header panels, AC condensers etc.

I did an experiment one day. I tried pulling one out and leaving the radiator in just for fun.

It nearly came out!! Only lacked an inch or two.

 

That's happened to me a lot over the years... "I think it will!" then right at that last little bit... Nope, it's got to come out. Having a proper engine puller tilting harness helps greatly! you can tilt an engine almost vertical in the compartment on the way out.

 

BTW,,
What are you bolting the chains to??
I have a 4 chain leveler,, but not a lot to bolt to on that I6

 

Honestly...I haven't hooked to one these yet with my leveler yet, I did mine in frame just recently because I was not removing the Crank or playing with cam bearings. Maybe Cruiser can give you some more information about where to hook to.